O/H Router again

[cadas]

Last question for now!

Following the destruction of the handheld router I have turned back to the O/H router. I've got this working beautifully but my first attmpt at using it was not a great success.

The first time, for speed, I hand routed the first sttring, then used this as the jig to rout the opposing string. All worked fine (apart from being bl..dy heavy) but the nearer you get to the end of the string the more precarious it got.

But the main question is for advice, do you make up a small jig for one or two treads and keep moving it, or is it best to make a jig for the whole string. Secondly, any reommendations for supporting long strings.
Ta

[jfc]

Ive got a couple of jigs for staircases made from ply wood . The jigs are big enough to support the router base over the whole of the trench and allow room for speed clamps not to foul the router . Yes they are big jigs but it's only ply so not heavy .The jig is for one tread and one riser that i move for every step making each one pretty much the same .

[cadas]

I use mdf jigs for handheld routers but this is for the overhead router where the guide pin is under the work piece.

[dom]

Hi Cadas,
I spoke with Scrit today and he doesn't recommend the overhead router for this operation.
He did explain why, but we had a fairly long conversation and i can't remember the reason.
I do recall that for strings it's better to use a handheld especially the festool type with a handle offset so you have a better view.

[cadas]

Hi

I'd be interested in his thinking. I've seen these things in joinery shops and I bought this one from a place that specialises in stairs.

I like the idea of the power and control you have over the head, but I can't see a practical method of moving large strings. The next stair I'm doing has 4m strings of 300x50 air dried oak.

[cnc paul]

Hi Cadas,

The problem with using an O/H router for strings is for every tread you need to turn over the string, reposition the template and then turn it back again....plus the fact you have too push and shove a heavy string while cutting.

The preferred choice is

CNC Router
Pickles string trencher
Template and router

in that order


Paul

[cadas]

Back to option 3 then

I've been looking at low end cnc, so much so that I have now started seriously contemplating building one.

Has anyone had any experience of shopbot type cnc machines and whether they are worth the effort

[Scrit]

The reason I didn't recommend a pin router for stair stringing is because of the difficulty in moving an entire string against a guide pin (as mentioned by CNC Paul). It is possible to use an overhead router in this sort of work, however the type of machine is very specific and is fitted with a two axis (X-Y axis) table. These were commonly sold as patternmakers machines and such tables were available on both the Wadkin LS and the later Wadkin UX (referred to as a Wadkin UX-F3 or UX-B3 - the F or B indicate frequency driven or belt driven head and the 3 refers to an X-Y table, 2 = tilting table and 1=flat table). These machines took over in many ways from the earlier recessors such as my old Wadkin LQ (which incidentally has the same X-Y mechanism as the two routers mentioned). Here's my LQ seen "in captivity":



You should be able to pick-up a decent LQ recessor for around £350 or so - a pin router with an X-Y table will cost a lot more. Downsides? Well the LQ has a paltry 2HP and is limited to 6,000 rpm but other than that it's the best drilling machine on the face of the planet. useful for making all sorts of jigs, too......

I feel that CNC routers tend to be a slight problem as their beds are often not long enough to accommodate a ful string in one pass, so for a small shop I's alter CNC Paul's list to be as follows:

Template and router
Recessor or overhead router with X-Y axis table
Pickles string trencher (hardly a bargain, secondhand ones in decent nick always fetch £6k or more, and the more recent ones post-1970 are referred to as Ryburn-Pickles stair trenchers and were being made just uo the road from me as late as 2000)
CNC Router (only if a good 3.8 metre bed machine can be obtained - a 4 x 3ft table SCM or vintage Wadkin UXC just won't hack it)

Scrit

[cadas]

Thanks Scrit

I have just about given up on the overhead router, I think it will be appearing on ebay soon.

Mind you, having seen your LQ, I think I must have quite a docile machine, I've never needed to chain mine down ;D ;D

[Scrit]

Pin routers happen to be wonderful machines if you are doing multiples or repetitive jobs, such as making corbels or cutting multiples of shapes such as furniture feet. Other than that the only use I can think of is for cutting out onion-skinned components off a CNC. What else were you doing with yours?

Scrit

[cadas]

I had a 150 balusters to make with stopped flutes, it was good for that.

Problem was I bought it from a staircase maker who was adamant that he used it for strings so I always had this in the back of my mind. I've contacted him since and he suggests trestles

The best thing I can see at the moment is somewhere to stand the tea mug. I haven't got a hope in hell of selling it here in France, Wadkin is unheard of and definately not French and is therefore considered unreliable and likely to kill the operator.

Fortunately I only paid 300pounds for it so it has already paid for itself.