Just in case anyone missed this:
www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-ED16B-Pillar-Drill-33277.htmI bought this a couple of months ago when it was £30 more
- it was a bargain then, and now at £130 it's a great deal. The table is a relatively rough casting, and it doesn't have any holes in it - so I'll have to drill some to to get some kind of MDF table on it. But the chuck is good and the whole thing is is heavy and solid enough to do a good job.
Hi Matthew,
No need to drill through your metal table!!!
Looking at this drill press, it seems to have two slots in the table, like the old Arcoy drill stand. These are to accept hold down clamps, or a 'machine-vice', which would slide along the slots.
So, why not make an adjustable MDF table? Should take about an hour, once you have everything to hand. I'll be as brief as I can.
You need:
Two threaded hex-nuts that will fit in the channels beneath the table and also slide along the channels.
Two hex-headed bolts with the same thread and long enough to pass through the MDF and the metal table.
Two 'Penny-Washers' to fit the bolts.
A piece of 25mm MDF about 24" x 14"
Have a look underneath the table. You should see webs running the length of the slots, forming channels. Check that the nuts will be captured by the channels, but will also slide along them. If there are no channels, you will need two more washers to support the nuts. Their use will be obvious.
Make a 'rubbing' on paper of the metal table, to locate the holes you will need to drill in your MDF. When you know where you need the holes, make recess holes deep enough to ensure the bolts are below the surface of the MDF table and of a diameter that will admit a socket or box-spanner. Use a suitable sized forstner bit, or auger for this job.
Using the auger mark in the recess, drill the smaller holes through the MDF, for the bolts. Now, put a washer beneath each hex-head and test that the bolts will engage the slots and your table will slide back and forth okay.
Put the nuts onto the bolts and pass the nuts through the large hole at the end of the slot in the metal table. Reach under the table and tighten the bolts by hand, so the MDF table is 'pinched' but will slide along. Once you have your MDF table in the right place use a socket or box-spanner to pinch it tight and to keep it where you want it.
Your drill bits will obviously be positioned between the slots, so the bolts won't be in harm's way!
When you know the table moves properly you can attach a 90 degree fence at the rear edge of the MDF and away you go. You could even mill a mitre guide slot in it too if you think it will be useful.
Because the table will move in and out from the pillar, it makes an ideal method for drilling shelf-bearer holes in the sides of bookcases, to mention but one job!
I made my table from block-board, which lasted for years until I bought a morticer.
Hmmm... Looks as if the drill has an X slot in the table. This means you will need counter milled slots routed in your MDF table, as opposed to recess for the bolt heads, but it will still work the same way.
Hope you can visualise what I mean.
Regards
John
- it was a bargain then, and now at £130 it's a great deal. The table is a relatively rough casting, and it doesn't have any holes in it - so I'll have to drill some to to get some kind of MDF table on it. But the chuck is good and the whole thing is is heavy and solid enough to do a good job.
And they managed to get the rotation reversed so the motor's had to go back again. How the hell can they supply a complete new unit for the same price as a rewind?
