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Post by engineerone on Apr 30, 2008 10:34:32 GMT
being a cheap skate , i am trying to save as much of the various wood i have. this means in particular i have some waney cherry, and want to cut the bark off. some of it is on quite narrow sections so i need to angle the saw blade to clean it up. so the question is is it as unsafe as i think to tilt the blade toward the fence?? reason for asking is of course the desire to have the largest section of wood on the table of the saw. my feeling is with the blade tilted toward the fence, even if i do what scrit suggests, and do stop my adjustable fence about level with the centre of the blade, the wood might still get caught and then kick back or something. any proper advice  which does not include throwing the wood away  paul  |
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Post by nickw on Apr 30, 2008 11:52:46 GMT
Do you not have a bandsaw you could use? Also unless you are intending to use the timber with angled edges, why bother tilting the blade?
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Post by engineerone on Apr 30, 2008 11:59:06 GMT
sadly nick, so far no band saw, and actually i may well use the wood with angled edges it must be the scottishness not wishing to waste ;D paul |
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Post by big-all on Apr 30, 2008 15:16:31 GMT
my suggestion would be glue you wood back to back with the waney edge diadonaly opposit to give you as near to an oblong as possible
screw/affix a sacraficial baton to the bottom to run against the fence at the correct angle [90 degrees to the waney edge!!]to remove the waney edge on one or both edges
once you have a flat edge remove the batton and convert as normal bowed timber on your saw or planer thicknesses
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Post by jasonb on Apr 30, 2008 15:23:17 GMT
Ping a chalk line and use a circular saw that way you can cut at an angle and also tapered in length to keep the max potential usable wood.
Jason
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Post by Scrit on Apr 30, 2008 16:53:36 GMT
I agree with Jason B. A portable circular saw is probably the safest way to deal with this job, at least for timber with two waney edges. Once you have a straight edge then the table saw is probably the most effective next stage.
I do sometimes go another way and use a chalk like to ping a line on the timber them back the rip fence off and freehand rip to the line on the table saw, but you need to make sure that you are standing out of the line of fire in the event of a kickback and this task should only be performed if you have a decent size outfeed table behind the saw (and an infeed roller or similar at the front). Not a technique for anyone unsure of the table saw, oh yes, and a task to be performed with a proper coarse tooth rip saw blade not a combination blade as you need something which cuts freely and aggressively
As to the trapping issue, Paul, so long as the rip fence ends around the bottom of the leading tooth gully there normally isn't much of a problem, but on the narrow strips I assume that you'll have one flat edge to reference from so the technique is to apply side pressure with a push stick just in front of the blade for the entire cut.
Scrit
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which does not include throwing the wood away 
