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Post by Scrit on Jun 10, 2008 21:42:28 GMT
so ... what results do you get if you rip with a good crosscut blade ? Slow cutting. Lots of resistance to cutting motion and tendency to kickback. Possibly scorching, too. Rip blades have less teeth and deeper gullets. They also tend to have more clearance behind the tips. These features clear waste more efficiently and help keep the blade cool. Using ultra-fine crosscut blades on heavy rips is asking for problems, from scorching through kickbacks and even stalling to the blade overheating and losing its tension. To be avoided, therefore can you use a finish cut crosscut blade far all your crosscutting ? Yes. But it's going to be a lot slower than using a coarser blade for initial sizing. if I was to spend a decent amount on a good blade, which one should I get 1st ? 1st? Then undoubtedly a rip blade. Most people have other methods of cross-cutting, such as a mitre saw, chop saw or hand saw. Very few workers have hand rip saws these days so if you don't have one and haven't a band saw a rip blade makes a lot of sense to me Scrit |
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Post by modernist on Jun 10, 2008 22:10:32 GMT
If I were you I would get a decent rip blade from Cutting solutions i.e Stehle for around £20 and see how you go. Get other blades as you need them. That will also do rough sizing.
Brian
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Post by tusses on Jun 11, 2008 8:50:58 GMT
you both have thrown me with the rip blade recommendation !
I imagined a good (finish)cross cut is harder to achieve that a good finish) rip cut.
I do tend to use my table saw for just about all my cuts including half lapping and tennonig. (hence why I never used to use a fence) and am noticabley less happy with my cross cuts than rips, especially in ply.
I make up and use a couple of sizes of sliding table and panel cutting jigs. I am even going to make a sliding bed for cross cutting 8x4 sheets now I have the wadkin (ther'll be a wip soon)
I have a cheap miter saw that really only gets used for unwieldy long bits - which is hardly ever. or bits that dont matter (I think they call it 'rustic' !)
I have a small delta bench top bandsaw - but have never considered it for making long straight cuts?
I'll switch to my tct rip blade that came with the saw and try the difference whilst ripping, for a bit.
I can see I'll end up buying 3 blades tho .
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Post by cuttingsolutions on Jun 11, 2008 11:40:41 GMT
[/quote]
Actually, Dave, we're talking pre-metrication here..... AGS s generally came with 5/8in arbors. OK, so I know that's only 16.1mm, but there are some 16mm bore reducers out there which won't work with the Imperials stuff, as older deWalt RAS owners may well know.
I did say probably 16mm... ;D
I'd add a slight notre of caution that negative rake blades require more care as they are more prone to kickback generation and produce appreciably more resistance to the cutting motion than positive rake blades.
The negative blade i am suggesting has a 20 degree neg hook angle with 40 Deg ATB and is designed not to "kickback", which if used in the correct application with modern TCT blades should never happen....
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Post by cuttingsolutions on Jun 11, 2008 11:49:43 GMT
I'll switch to my tct rip blade that came with the saw and try the difference whilst ripping, for a bit. If you mean the TCT saw in the picture you posted....I really DONT like the look of it....use with caution please.... In theory you can use a cross cut for ripping....slower feed speed, but the blade is then not doing what its designed for....and as scrit said burning...damages the blade.....stopping....damages the blade and machine Three saw blades for under 100 quid (inc P&P and the vodka and tonic for the tea leaves running the country) will cover most of your applications....not the ply though... Dave |
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Post by tusses on Jun 11, 2008 11:57:44 GMT
I agree - £100 is really not alot of money. but ! I have decided to go 'pro' and upgrade what was basically a DIY set up to a pro setup. so - all those £100's soon add up ! which is why I am asking a million questions about in which order and what value I get from new equipment I buy. bearing in mind I have tools I can 'make do' with in the mean time. point noted about the antique rip blade - I will give it plenty of caution  |
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Post by tusses on Jun 19, 2008 10:01:13 GMT
ok - I bought a cros a rip and a combi blade - Axminster branded. Just a few steps up from screfix LOL to see what the difference is..... just been and tried the 50 tooth teflon coated combi blade Tried a few rips and crosscuts on some oak scraps wow ! what have I been missing out on ! I am now more than convinced that better blades can make a difference I will see which I use the most - and then buy the next range up from whomever - maybe cutting solutions ? anyone want some antique blades ?  |
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Post by Scrit on Jun 19, 2008 18:10:07 GMT
I'm curious as to why you bought a combination blade and a crosscut. If you make the move to a proper rip blade from a major manufacturer as opposed to a low-end to middle market blade (like the APTC ones) you'll probably find ripping much easier than with a "tooth bopund" combi blade. A point about better quality (industrial) blades is that very few are Teflon coated (Freud offer Teflon coating on a limited range of industrial saws). The problem I've found with Teflon coatings in the past is that they don't last the life of the blade, they can discolour stock (especially red or blue coatings) and that the saw doctor will soon start complaining about the coating if he has to retip a blade anyone want some antique blades ? Nope! Best suggestion is top polish them up, stick a cheap electric clock mechanism on the back and give them to friends as presents ......... Or then again, maybe not  Scrit |
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Post by tusses on Jun 19, 2008 20:04:51 GMT
Hi Scrit I bought a rip blade for ripping and a cross blade for cross cuts ! but to keep for best when I am making something nice. Also I wanted to keep a sharp cross cut blade for veneered ply/mdf I bought a combi blade for general work where it doesnt matter so much and I cant be bothered to keep changing the blade ,and to see how it performed ! I guess the first few cuts will be the best, but I ripped some strips of oak today and when I was thicknessing them I had to look close to see which side needed to go up - this is a new experience for me ! I am amazed at the performance of these 'cheap' blades - so I stll can only imagine what a good blade will be like. this changing from cheap amateur stuff to semi pro stuff is an eye opening experience - and yes - I now wish I had saved my pennys and bought better kit the 1st time round My wife says I am a typical man and wont listen to anyone until I try it for myself. I guess she is right |
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gary
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by gary on Jun 28, 2008 10:38:36 GMT
this changing from cheap amateur stuff to semi pro stuff is an eye opening experience - and yes - I now wish I had saved my pennys and bought better kit the 1st time round Semi-pro? I thought you'd bought Axminsters own brand. |
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