Order of Work

[jake]

You [mod edit] leave my [mod edit]ing posts alone.

[andy]

Jul 3, 2008 20:34:48 GMT jake said:

Stop it Jase, just because [mod edit]

The truth hurts

[jake]

I should confess that I was framing Jase, and inserted all the [mod edit]s in the [mod edit] as his [mod edit] was [mod edit].

[wizer]

[mod edit]

[jake]

He's desperate to [mod edit] you as well?

[jfc]

;D

[Scrit]

What the [mod edit] is going on here? Have the management all gone [mod edit] [mod warning]?

And for good measure I make it (for solid wood)......

1. Cross rough sawn timber to length
2. Remove waney edges, rip to width
3. Plane and joint one edge
4. Thickness
5. Rip and plane to finished width
6. Set-out on bench using a ROD
7. Cut mortises and tenons, dowel joints, etc. Trim on table/cross cut saw as required
8. Bandsaw (if curved required)
9. Spindle mould/rout/pin rout curved shapes, profile edges (as required
10. Dry assemble and adjust
11. Glue and cramp. apply mouldings, etc
12. Sand off, stain and polish (note, some of this may be better done before assembly depending on circumstances)

Been done in more or less that sequence by joiners for at least 150 years and seems to work quite well.......

Scrit

[wizer]

well I won't argue then!

Thanks Scrit

[thebloke]

One thing to add to Scrits list if you want to be very piccy...selection of timber to obtain best the grain pattern before cutting. Example is that there may be a lump of timber suitable for the legs that can be ripped down to make a book matched pair, similarly for other prominent parts of the project. This way of working is more wasteful of timber but ultimately produces a more satisfying job - Rob

[Scrit]

Well, yes, the list isn't writ in stone but is at least a good general sequence. It sort of assumes that you're working with good quality, knot- and defect-free square edge stock, which is what you are often aiming for in a joiners shop (especially as much of the work will be paint finished) rather than picking-out the showiest pieces. If I were doing joinery from flawed, home-grown waney edge timber the start of the sequence might well be:

(i) Select timber
(ii) Crosscut as required
(iii) Straight-line (rip off) waney edges
(iv) Band saw out "interesting" pieces before doing dimensioning

then as my first list above (from point 3). Obviously some judgement has to be applied, but it seems obvious to me that many home woodworkers simply don't have a clue, at least if I'm to believe the numbers of posts I've read from people who are struggling to shove 12ft lengths of timber across the planer then through the thicknesser as the first steps in their making sequence.

The main thing is to try to break-down the timber into the smallest handleable pieces before commencing planing, thicknessing, etc. Again there are exceptions, such as if you need to rip a few hundred 1in square laths; in that case it obviously makes more sense to plane and thickness slabs in 10in, 12in or wider before doing the final ripping and edge jointing.

Fot that matter panel processing is completely different, at least on a sliding carraige panel saw and runs something like this:

1. Dust rip one short edge
2. Turn sheet through 90°. Cross cut one long edge (you now have two reference faces at right angles)
3. Rip strips as required using rip fence as width stop (fence blade pulled right back). The last rip(s) may need the fence pushing forwards and a conventional rip doing (note that you don't use a parallel rip device for this)
4. Do crosscuts as required
5. Do any angle cuts required

After that processing depends on the required end result but would often be:

6. Machine grooves, slots, etc
7. Edge band/lip
8. Veneer faces (if required)
9. Drill holes, make cut-outs, etc
10. Pass to final assembly

Scrit

[andy king]

Yep, I agree with Scrit on the order, its exactly how I was taught at college, although I was also shown by a couple of old boys a different order, great for basic joinery etc, and much the same, but, the stock is actually fully prepped first with moulds and rebates and the rod set using the components as true sizes, then the mortices marked and cut from the rod.
The idea instilled was that especially if someone else machined the stock, there could be slight discrepancies in the overall dimensioning Also, once the rebates are made after morticing, any slight variation i.e. over deep, could also leave marginal inacuracies of shoulders, then overall size etc once they fit correctly.
It also (in theory!!!) eliminates errors of cutting the mortices too long when you make them on the floor of the rebate rather than the top. (If you get my drift...)

Andy

[Scrit]

Certainly in chair making and curved component work (curved head doors, frames, etc) the need to cut and fit the joints before doing the edge profiles, etc is greatest simply because the act of edge moulding often removes your reference surfaces.

Scrit