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Post by jfc on Dec 27, 2007 22:48:02 GMT
resistant fibreboard as in fire resistant ?
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Post by andy king on Dec 27, 2007 23:34:50 GMT
Well, assuming it's not a sheet material like the others, RF - resorcinol formaldehyde?
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Post by andy king on Dec 28, 2007 0:00:02 GMT
No40 - I've used one mostly with a rebating block for a range of bevel options and also for running cill profiles. But whether that's right, or meets Scrit's safety criteria is another story!
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Post by Scrit on Dec 28, 2007 0:35:32 GMT
Well, assuming it's not a sheet material like the others, RF - resorcinol formaldehyde? Give the man a cupie doll! After all I never said they were all sheet materials ;D No40 - I've used one mostly with a rebating block for a range of bevel options and also for running cill profiles. But whether that's right..... is another story! Nope, it isn't. Maybe a clue is that tilting arbor spindles appeared in the 1930s at a time when square cutter blocks were "in vogue" and the old hands know how wonderful they were  If nobody cracks that one I'll post it after I post up the next 20 odd questions, probably tomorrow evening (as you've all devoured this lot so quickly). Scrit |
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Post by dom on Dec 28, 2007 7:04:34 GMT
30. Kelley Electric Machine Co.
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Dec 28, 2007 9:50:07 GMT
I'm just guessing here but a tilt means;
1 you can use a cutter with less blade sticking out, i.e. the tilt is close to the overall angle of the profile so doesn't have to reach so far. Safer and less breakage etc
2 Where a profile has flats parallel to the bed a tilt will cut better - i.e. not scrape over the surface - similar to the set up of some moulding planes which work at an angle.
3 And also - gives more scope for fine adjustment, which is a big prob with modern safety blocks with fixed cutters
cheers
Jacob
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Dec 28, 2007 9:57:37 GMT
PS re Hammer Head Key joint - this is usually a double ended loose key as it's much easier to work. Would nearly always be oak as anything too weak and the keys could break or get squashed. I did some in a round window I'll have to dig out the snaps.
The extra slips/tongues are to make up for the lack of M&T and to help keep things straight.
Franking is the reverse of haunching and is supposed to help keep water out of the joint on a sash but I'm not convinced - it's effectively a cross grained haunch and so weaker than normal.
cheers
Jacob
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Dec 28, 2007 15:07:42 GMT
Yes it is a woodworking question ;D I've been blagging on for years about the rod and how it works as a graphical calculator which can work things out without measuring or maths *. This is a good example - basic school Euclidean geometry, dividing a line into any number of equal sections.
BTW you don't need the square. Pencil, dividers and straight edge are enough. Work that out - deserves another point ;D
cheers
Jacob
* I'm not saying you should avoid measuring and maths but you can go a long way and avoid all those little errors and calculations on backs of envelopes
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Post by modernist on Dec 28, 2007 15:10:29 GMT
40 To expand the use of simple cutters. e.g rebating cutters for chamfering. Alternatively to achieve a more benficial cutting angle and therefore finish on rebates by using a pointed cutter at 45 deg giving a planed rather than scraped finish to both surfaces.
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Post by dom on Dec 29, 2007 13:05:41 GMT
Scrit has asked me to fill in the final answers as his 'puter is out of commission.
So I'll do my best as there's no way I can copy Scrit's inimitable style.
The plunge router was invented by Carter in 1928 who then sold out to Stanley in 1934-35
The main reason for a tilting arbour was that if you have a large block with say 9" projecting at the top and 6" at the bottom the top and bottom will be rotating at unequal speeds, so tilting it would equalise the speed and equilibrium.
Should you wish to research this further, suggest you read:
Spindle Moulder by Eric Stephenson
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