Removing rust

[jfc]

Still clearing out the other shed and i have found some old chisels One is a Marples but the other one is caked in rust Whats the best way to remove the worst of it ?

[engineerone]

alf's idea about citric acid ;D

send it to me


wire brush, and then citric acid,

paul

[big-all]

if the back is pitted you need to fully remove the pitting otherwise you will keep getting gaps in the cutting edge off the chisel

[robo]

Milk Stone Remover from Agricultural Suppliers (SCATS where I live) - a cheap source of phosphoric acid. (As used in Jenolite)
About £10 for 5litres and can be diluted - so will last for years?


R.

[pedder]

I used limescale remover on a Sargent No. 54 because it was already there.



Cheers
Pedder

[garywayne]

Use a wire brush to remove the worst of the rust. Then, soak in vinegar over night. Longer if necessary.
Works a treat.

[mrgrimsdale]

To get rid of rust: linseed oil to stop it getting worse, sharpen it, then use it!

cheers
Jacob

[TonyW]

Citric acid method is pretty good IMO. With this method you are actually removing the rust and some of the base metal

If you want to get fancy and convert at least some of the corroded metal back to sound iron then you may want to consider electrolytic methods. Plenty of info on the web - as a start look Here

[dom]

Alf's method worked for me but according to the Jaco, use Coke.

[jaco]

I have serious rust elsewhere, and not even Coke works.

Any suggestions?
(keep it clean)

[engineerone]

c'mon jaco we need to know where the rust is ;D

electrolysis is worthwhile trying though.

paul

[mrspanton]

I have used citric acid (that is when I was able to find someone as would sell me a decent quantity-the chemists look at you like your a druggy?? - I had to buy it at a home brew shop. It works OK especially if you juice it up with an electrolytic current BUT its a tw*t to stop the newly cleaned metal from instantly re rusting in the ordinary air, and it smells like a bad drain fart while the metal is cooking ;D. Electrolysis with caustic or washing soda is far superior. It eats the oxidised rust/soot/grease/paint etc but wont eat good metal so you can leave it to cook without having to watch it too closely. I did dozens of saws that were like time team relics, and successfully got them clean and in most cases the etch became clearly visible again.

[woodchucker]

I'd have an extra hot Vindy, and breathe on it.

Jack

[woodchucker]

JFC I just had an accident looking at your Snowman thingie!

Wet Jack!

[thebloke]

Oct 1, 2008 17:08:18 GMT mrgrimsdale said:

To get rid of rust: linseed oil to stop it getting worse, sharpen it, then use it!

cheers
Jacob

Agree with Jacob here, works very well. I've given the steel bars on all my sash cramps a light coat of BLO and once the stuff dries out you can forget about rust appearing - Rob

[mrgrimsdale]

Raw works the same. Takes longer to dry, but is thinner so penetrates a bit further.

cheers
Jacob

[engineerone]

latest issue of goodwoodworking has i discovered details of a number of rust cleaners and prevention devices. including a hammerite dip which apparently works very well.

paul

[thebloke]

Nov 18, 2008 17:57:22 GMT mrgrimsdale said:

...is thinner so penetrates a bit further.

cheers
Jacob

on a steel sash cramp bar? - Rob

[mrgrimsdale]

Nov 19, 2008 9:32:59 GMT thebloke said:

Nov 18, 2008 17:57:22 GMT mrgrimsdale said:

...is thinner so penetrates a bit further.

cheers
Jacob

on a steel sash cramp bar? - Rob

Down the various crevices between fittings and the bar etc. Or through thick encrustations of rust, like most of my gear has

cheers
Jacob

[ivan]

Most of the commercial dips etc are based on phosphoric acid, and the most expensive way of buying it (cheaper, see above, or lab chemical supplier in yellow pages). Coke also contains a little (see the label) Some include hydrochloric acid (also weak) which will dissolve parent metal, unlike the phosphoric alone. Phosphoric acid also passivates the steel to help prevent further rusting, and provides a better base for paint (commercially, called phosphating). Electrolysis will dissolve parent metal as well as rust, which might be a problem on a accurately machined part or a fine thread etc.

[9fingers]

Nov 22, 2008 12:47:54 GMT ivan said:

Most of the commercial dips etc are based on phosphoric acid, and the most expensive way of buying it (cheaper, see above, or lab chemical supplier in yellow pages). Coke also contains a little (see the label) Some include hydrochloric acid (also weak) which will dissolve parent metal, unlike the phosphoric alone. Phosphoric acid also passivates the steel to help prevent further rusting, and provides a better base for paint (commercially, called phosphating). Electrolysis will dissolve parent metal as well as rust, which might be a problem on a accurately machined part or a fine thread etc.

Have to disagree about electrolysis dissolving virgin iron/steel. When ever I have done it, only the rust is removed. This is because the anodes are also iron/steel

Bob

[mel]

BEEN MEANING TO HAVE A GO AT THAT ELECTROLYSIS
{whoops}
think i saw it on lord nibbos website
wonder if it would work on a very old , unloved , anvil ;D

[dom]

You know what they say Mel.
Use it or lose it

[woodchucker]

Dec 9, 2008 10:51:48 GMT dom said:

You know what they say Mel.
Use it or lose it

Absolute.

or invest in a dehumidifieying plant for the shop.
A metal door, or panel in in a south facing wall is a natural rust inhibiter.

Jack

[mrgrimsdale]

Dec 26, 2008 11:06:45 GMT woodchucker said:

Dec 9, 2008 10:51:48 GMT dom said:

You know what they say Mel.
Use it or lose it

Absolute.

or invest in a dehumidifieying plant for the shop.
A metal door, or panel in in a south facing wall is a natural rust inhibiter.

Jack

Or traditional glazing; sashes best!