fix for a twisted door ???

[tusses]

one on my styles has bowed a bit, adding a twist to the door.

Any hints and tips for correcting it ?

My 1st thoughts are something like the rod in a guitar neck, where you tension it to correct any bow.

2nd is to rip the style in half and re attach a 'repair' piece with the oppostie bow. glued and dowelled into place.

3rd - as its a garage door, add a peice of 2" steel angle top to bottom on each door and call it a security device !

any ideas would be REALLY welcome !!!!

[jfc]

Sorry mate but i have spent so much time trying to correct this that i now just make a new one as soon as i see it . One thing i have learnt about making windows and doors is that now and then one will go "boing" for no reason at all

You could of course clamp it up the other way and mist it with water and steam in the hope that it will go back and then make another one any way .

[jfc]

Ahhhhhhh ive just read you thread in projects . I didnt realise you had fitted and finished them

[Keith]

I've just looked at your garage door thread and you have done a great job, but your choice of timber

Sawn timber is only good for joists and the like, look at the end grain, massive growth rings when compared to redwood grown further north.

However I have repaired a door with a similar problem, so you may well be able to fix it. I cut a piece of 70x30 to a mirror image of the bow and then screwed that to the back face of the door (edge on) to pull it into line. Chamfered the ends and a coat of paint later and it looked like it was suposed to be there. ;D

[tusses]

I had thought of that one , thanks - it seems the best bet. I wasn't happy with the choice of wood since before I started !, but limited by suppliers round here !

they were dead straight before I put the preservative on !

[engineerone]

but then he has to do it on both pieces keith

if you have ever watched the holmes on holmes programme
he always checks for bowed wood, and tries to work round it.
sometimes he uses the bow to strengthen the part etc.

paul

[Keith]

Aug 1, 2008 18:05:16 GMT engineerone said:

but then he has to do it on both pieces keith

paul

Why's that, if only one side has bowed?

[jfc]

I take it the lump of 70 x 30 was not on a paid job ;D

[Keith]

Aug 1, 2008 19:35:37 GMT jfc said:

I take it the lump of 70 x 30 was not on a paid job ;D

Very astute

But it didn't look half bad when it was done, in fact only only someone like YOU would even notice that it was there ;D

[jfc]

;D I'm trying to picture where you would rather see a lump of 70 x 30 rather than a twist in the door ;D

[engineerone]

well keith two doors, so if only one is bowed, you need to make them both the same ;D

paul

[jfc]

If he did that Paul then the other door would be bowed where as now it isnt .

[tusses]

LOL !!!

[engineerone]

let me remind you keith said if you add the piece it will look like it was intended, and all i said was if you only do one side it will look odd ;D

paul

[tusses]

joking aside, it does look like one of my better options ! and thanks for that.

improving on this a little...

how about an oak strip. The oak being stiffer - it could be thinner. Then it could be 'let in' to a routed grove.

or maybe a slot in the style with the angle iron let in to that ?

....

are there any tables for wood 'stiffness' (yes I will google, just thinking out loud ! )

[jfc]

I'd think twice about googling wood stiffness ;D

[tusses]

;D

[Keith]

Googling stiff and wood, whats wrong with that ;D

Jason it did not look that bad, honest.

OK then..........

Perhaps a better (neater) way of doing this is to clamp the door, using a straight joist and a few blocks on the outside, to pull it more than in line. Then glue and screw a 50x25 batten (fat side down) on the inside. The internal batten will be under tension and should stop the door springing back.

[jfc]

You could do that and make it look like it is hiding the gap between the doors . That wouldnt look out of place as its common practice on external joinery on out buildings .

How far out is it ? And was it CLS you used ?

[tusses]

it was hard to tell how far out it was, because the frame wasn't true either (he kept his old frame)

I guess about 5mm. doesn't sound a lot, but it's 5 more than yesterday, and I dont know if it will stop there !

It was what I would call CLS. I wanted and asked for sawn, so I could plane it to size. but it was planed with the rounded corners and under size. Diferent to how I used to by my sawn from them, but they say they have changed, and thats what they keep now. I wonder what there planed stuff is like ! maybe just square edges instead of rounded

[jfc]

I thought it looked like CLS . It's only good for non structual first fix . I use it to build sheds . Sorry to tell you something you already know but that is seriously the wrong timber for joinery

What area are you in again ? Maybe we should start a supplier section so at least people can find a good timber supplier near them ?

[tusses]

Yes , I know ! They have changed their stock since I used them last !

I'm in Coventry. I have a good hardwood supplier - Whitmores , about half an hour away.

I have no source for cabinet / furniture grade softwoods though

oh - I do like to go and pick myself, as I dont trust someone to do it for me !