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Post by tusses on Dec 11, 2008 10:04:41 GMT
what temps would you all recommend for glue up and finishing ?
I keep the shop warm when I am there, with the log burner, but I wonder about 1st thing and last thing when its cold'er'
I usually warm the place up before starting just to be safe
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Post by paulchapman on Dec 11, 2008 10:58:23 GMT
I would say as near normal room temperature as you can get it (which isn't always possible, of course). And be careful what you store in the workshop overnight and at weekends - stuff with water in it, like PVA, goes off at less than 5 degrees and you have to throw it away Cheers Paul
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dunbarhamlin
Full Member
Lutherie with Luddite Tendancies
Posts: 244
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Post by dunbarhamlin on Dec 11, 2008 12:06:24 GMT
For scotch glue, Hot Hot Hot or maybe a bit warmer than that - apron, shorts, boots and spectacles only. For modern glue, I don't worry about it, since I work in the house.
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Post by thebloke on Dec 11, 2008 14:32:24 GMT
..... and spectacles only. Steve - depends also if you can see out of 'em ;D ;D - Rob
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dunbarhamlin
Full Member
Lutherie with Luddite Tendancies
Posts: 244
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Post by dunbarhamlin on Dec 11, 2008 14:35:51 GMT
..... and spectacles only. Steve - depends also if you can see out of 'em ;D ;D - Rob Dammit contemplating a visit to the optician this month. ;D At least they keep oxtail soup out.
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Post by promhandicam on Dec 11, 2008 17:28:51 GMT
when I'm working I try and keep above 50C as this is the minimum temp for the glue (titebond) that I use. Just bought a superser catalytic calor gas heater which seems to be pretty effective at getting the temp up - will have to wait and see what the running costs are but according to the spec, on the low setting a 15kg bottle should last for over 200 hours. At the moment I guess I run it for 3 hours a day so it should last for a couple of months. Not sure how much a refill is as I got a couple of full bottles for £20 each off ebay.
Steve
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Post by tusses on Dec 11, 2008 18:12:45 GMT
but will the bond / finish be compromised if you work at the correct temp - then leave it to cure / dry overnight when it gets cold ?
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Post by jfc on Dec 11, 2008 19:00:53 GMT
Yes . Best thing i have found is to chuck a couple of dust sheets over any thing glued up on a cold night . If you wrap the work the cold doesnt get into the joints and freeze the thingies that do stuff . ;D
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Post by jonnyd on Dec 11, 2008 19:46:00 GMT
Another option is to get an old double bed electric blanket and wrap it over the work.
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Post by chippy on Dec 11, 2008 20:12:40 GMT
I would say as near normal room temperature as you can get it... What temperature is room temperature incidentally? Arent all rooms at room temperature? ;D
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Post by paulchapman on Dec 11, 2008 20:14:49 GMT
;D
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frank
New Member
Posts: 9
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Post by frank on Dec 11, 2008 20:25:26 GMT
steve dont use a gas heater all your tools will start to rust .the gas produces water vapour . frank
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Stree
Junior Member
Posts: 98
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Post by Stree on Dec 11, 2008 20:32:52 GMT
Gas is fine if you have the cubic metrage to cope with it. and a workshop thats a bit drafty, or has the door/s open and closed fairly often. But its not worth it in a small workshop.... Insulate first, and keep glue ups on the bench, above 18" is safe line ( ?) for ground frost so should be OK there if no drafts. and yes, an old blanket, duvet, cardboard, is better than no cover. and glue up earlier with a fast setting glue.
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Post by jfc on Dec 11, 2008 21:15:33 GMT
I agree with Stree there , its the ground frost . Ive just sprayed a window and covered it with a dust sheet so the paint goes off ;D
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Post by tusses on Dec 11, 2008 21:51:30 GMT
well I've 'borrowed' the min/max thermometer out the greenhouse for tonight, so I can see what goes on in the shop when I'm not looking ;D gonna be a cold one too does anyone take any special precautions with their glue/finish 'store' ?
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Post by jonnyd on Dec 11, 2008 21:59:41 GMT
You have to be carefull with PVAs and Waterborne finishes to protect them from frost. I keep them in my office (junk room) in an old filing cabinet.
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Post by sainty on Dec 11, 2008 22:02:55 GMT
I had ice in my kettle this morning! I think i might need to replace the PVA that I left out. rgds Stu
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Post by tusses on Dec 11, 2008 22:40:34 GMT
I was reading a blog on homebuilt planes the other day. The chap was recommending to glue up 3 sets of test blocks and date them. 24 48 and 72 hrs later you break them apart. if the glue holds and the wood breaks, then all is good. if not, you redo everything you did on that date with a new batch of glue. I guess it kinda matters that the wings stay on up there but maybe the same principle could hold for our shops ? or even just to save chucking glue out that maybe ok ?
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Post by engineerone on Dec 11, 2008 22:52:48 GMT
is this not the right time to consider how pva glues work, and what actually goes on, then we might understand the temperatures we need to work within. has anyone warmed up the parts of the joint to see whether that makes any difference. paul
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Post by jfc on Dec 11, 2008 23:03:17 GMT
If you warm up the glue then thats just as bad as letting it freeze . Just cover it over and dont let it freeze , simple.
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Post by tusses on Dec 12, 2008 8:04:58 GMT
well, it went down to 1 in the night. Near the floor by my paint/glue shelves, so I think I'll bring the PVA and water based stuff up a shelf or two !
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Post by paulchapman on Dec 12, 2008 8:48:06 GMT
If you look at what it says on most bottles of PVA, it usually tells you not to store or use it below about 5 degrees. I keep mine in one of the kitchen cupboards (much to my wife's annoyance ;D) Cheers Paul
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Post by woodyew on Dec 12, 2008 10:17:04 GMT
I keep mine in one of the kitchen cupboards ( much to my wife's annoyance ;D) Top man, keep up the good work. ;D
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