"Mahogany" vanity unit

[craigmarshall]

Hi,

My boss has given me another interesting task. A vanity unit for a clients bathroom made from sapele and whatever odd bits that are lying around that nearly match in grain and colour. The exact colours are not critical as it will all be stained down to a rich conker colour and oiled. It's going to have a granite top, this has already been cut, so I don't have any leeway with the size.

I'm a bit more confident with this one as the basic structure is very much like that of the oak unit that I (half) made recently.

Here is the sketchup drawing, the client has seen this and is very happy with it:



Here is a pic of the end panels assembled (The client wanted the panel parts to be 85mm instead of 65mm or whatever they were):



Here are all the photos I have so far, these are all from the first half-day I spent on the project, I am actually a day ahead of what these pictures show now:

picasaweb.google.com/craig9/MahoganyVanityUnit

Since these photos were taken, I have spent another day and got the legs tapered on the jointer using a nice little jig I made, got the main carcase all dowelled up (using the Mafell duo-doweller again), made the base panel with lipping all round and am just about ready to assemble the unit, but the camera had a fit when I wanted to take pictures, so I'll add some more at the start of next week.

All that needs to be done now is sanding before assembling (!), I learnt that trick after assembling the oak TV stand. I'll probably stain before assembly too, so the glue doesn't interfere with the colour. Also - have to hang the doors (3" chrome hinges, 2mm gap all round), attach knobs. Also - cut out and screw in a removable back panel from the inside with big holes etc. (for plumbing access), make a loose shelf sitting on pins, then stain if not already done, then oil.

Watch this thread for some more interesting pictures during the first half of next week. I hope to have a finished pic by the end of the week.

Cheers,
Craig

[paulchapman]

Looking nice, Craig. What type of stain do you use?

Cheers

Paul

[craigmarshall]

Blackfriar, I seem to remember, we experimented (My boss and I), and mixed about 50/50 rosewood and mahohany. Although looking at this page I just found...

www.blackfriar.co.uk/shop/Product.aspx?cId=87&pgId=54

...it doesn't show mahogany as an option, so maybe I've got it wrong. If you're interested, I'll check on Monday.

Craig

[tim]

Does the client realise that when he opens the doors, half the cabinet will be filled with visible sink ?

Maybe some kind of cover panel could be incorporated behind the doors?

Cheers

Tim

[paulchapman]

craigmarshall said:

Blackfriar, I seem to remember, we experimented (My boss and I), and mixed about 50/50 rosewood and mahohany. Although looking at this page I just found...

www.blackfriar.co.uk/shop/Product.aspx?cId=87&pgId=54

...it doesn't show mahogany as an option, so maybe I've got it wrong. If you're interested, I'll check on Monday.

Craig

Thanks, Craig. I was interested insofar as you are using different, but similar, woods and then staining them so that they blend in together - always a bit of trial and error I suppose.

Cheers

Paul

[craigmarshall]

tim said:

Does the client realise that when he opens the doors, half the cabinet will be filled with visible sink ?

Maybe some kind of cover panel could be incorporated behind the doors?

Yes - although it's not quite as bad as my diagram shows. The sink is four to five inches deep, but there is a cross rail of two inches below the granite top, so yes - some sink will be visible, but not half the cabinet. Also - some pipework will be visible.

The real mess (pipes coming out of the wall) is going to be behind the back inside panel, and we have got that covered.

In one sense, the whole cabinet itself is kind of functioning as "the cover panel". Although, if necessary, some boxing in could be done later. There will already be a removable panel inside, so there's no real reason not to add more. I'll see how it looks when it's done.

Craig

[craigmarshall]

paulchapman said:

Thanks, Craig. I was interested insofar as you are using different, but similar, woods and then staining them so that they blend in together - always a bit of trial and error I suppose.

Well - we experimented on some of the darkest and lightest bits of wood we had, and also some of the plywood, and after some heavy staining, they get much closer together in colour. Some bits can be stained more than others, if necessary. I think it will turn out fine, but we'll see!

Craig

[Keith]

Hi Craig, I like the design and would like to make something very similar for myself if I may copy your design?

I don't know if you are getting involved in the plumbing but I would recomend using Hepworths HepVo traps, with the knuckle bend you can get for them they will fit very tight up to the bottom of the sink and save having the inside of the cabinet full of pipes and traps.

www.plumbingpages.com/featurepages/HepwasteMay01.cfm

Keith

[craigmarshall]

woodsmith said:

Hi Craig, I like the design and would like to make something very similar for myself if I may copy your design?

It's not actually my design (Boss decided on the design again). But I'll say go ahead and use it, it's not like it's not based on existing designs, or is spectacularly unique. I would like to see what you can do with it!

I don't know if you are getting involved in the plumbing but I would recomend using Hepworths HepVo traps, with the knuckle bend you can get for them they will fit very tight up to the bottom of the sink and save having the inside of the cabinet full of pipes and traps.

www.plumbingpages.com/featurepages/HepwasteMay01.cfm

The guy I'm making it for is actually a plumber and is doing the work himself (it's a whole new house), so I am sure he has it covered. If I go in starting to give him advice he might get offended!

Cheers,
Craig

[craigmarshall]

I had a bit of a slow day today, I started late, went shopping in the afternoon (for hinges and more stain), and then finished early. But still - I got all the parts stained and I got the main frame assembled with glue. I also selected and started resawing/planing some pieces for the lipping for the middle shelf.

This is as I left it at the end of day two. All the main parts of the frame are there - this is a dry fit. It still needs staining, gluing together, doors hanging, back making, shelf making and oiling:



These are the stains I've used. Half magohany, half rosewood.:



This is one of the end panels after a single staining (I think):



I think they came out quite nicely after an extra coat:



These are the doors, after one coat. I think the frame of these needs three coats, it's a slightly lighter shade:



This is the base of the unit, along with a lipping (joined on with a home-made tongue and groove - a pain to do - next time I'll biscuit it):



And after drying I assembled the lot with glue and it looks lovely! Still to do: Hang doors, make back, make shelf, oil finish. :



And that's the end of day three! I think one more day of construction and one day of finishing off and oiling. And then a couple of hours on site with the granite top and the jigsaw to open up the back a bit... I'll take some photos when it's finished and in place too.

Drat - I forgot to add close-up photos of the tapered legs, I was proud of having done those so nicely. Not much seems to work perfectly for me, but the tapering on the jointer did! ;D I'll try and draw a sketchup picture explaining it after dinner.

Craig

[paulchapman]

Looking good, Craig. Thanks for the info on the stains.

Cheers

Paul

[craigmarshall]

Thanks Paul - glad you like it. I hope the new owners will say the same!

Craig

[jasonb]

Looks good craig, must be the style people want at the moment I have just done two similar type single vanities in oak for different clients. Couple of pics below to give Keith some more ideas.

smg.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Bathrooms/?action=view¤t=PICT0092.jpg

smg.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Bathrooms/?action=view¤t=sl1.jpg

Excuse my clients poor aim in the second pic, it wasn't me, honest

Jason

[craigmarshall]

Wow - they look lovely. I like the way the cistern is neatly done too.

They look so similar, I had to flick back and forth between them to notice differences in room layout and tiles around the wall etc. How long did the first set take to do?

Ha - I thought when you said "poor aim" that you were talking about camera angle or something, but then I looked again at the picture and noticed the puddle on the floor. That man must have been drunk!

Cheers,
Craig

[craigmarshall]

Here's the next picture in the series.



It doesn't look this dusty in real life! (I think part of that is a dirty camera lens)

I've got the doors on it now, and I have also made the lipped centre shelf. I still need to adjust the door fitting slightly, make a plywood back and then finish with oil.

Cheers,
Craig

[jasonb]

The actual woodwork probably took about a day for each one,and then oiling over several days, rest of the rooms was a bit longer

The one with the grey tiles now has a 1500x1200 mirror above it with two floating oak shelves above the cistern fixed through the mirror. This was the first one I did which I prefer.

The "puddle" one I'm not so happy with, the 3" oak for the legs came out a bit brown, didn't show until the oil went on. Also when I deep cut the board for the door panels it cupped a bit too much while conditioning so I couldn't bookmatch the doors like the others. I would have thought the guys aim wood be better as he's a Pro Golfer, better at putting than pointing ;D

Jason

[Dave S]

Looking good, Craig. The choice of timber/stain would not be mine, but I like the style and it's coming together well. Looking forward to seeing the finished article.

Jason, yours are more like my choice of wood, and in fact are very similar to what I have planned for our ensuite.

Both of you have mentioned oil finishes and I wonder what the practicalities are in a bathroom. Jason do you oil the top as well? I like an oiled finish but had assumed it to be impractical for this purpose and had planned on a clear varnish instead. I guess it partly depends on how much splashing there is and how quickly it is wiped up, but I'd be interested to hear your comments.

cheers

Dave

[craigmarshall]

Dave, me neither! I don't much like the wood, but it's what the customer wants. The more interesting woods I've worked with and seen so far are oak, brown oak, ash and black walnut. I'm sure there will be other favourites as I come across them.

I think with a few coats of danish oil it should be reasonably water resistant. The top of the unit will be made from granite anyway. I am hoping the rest of it doesn't get submersed too regularly!

Craig

[craigmarshall]

jasonb said:

The actual woodwork probably took about a day for each one,and then oiling over several days, rest of the rooms was a bit longer

One day isn't long. I suppose because they're not freestanding there's less to them? i.e. you don't have back legs and side panels.

The one with the grey tiles now has a 1500x1200 mirror above it with two floating oak shelves above the cistern fixed through the mirror. This was the first one I did which I prefer.

Now - that's a nice idea, shelves mounted through a mirror. How did you drill through the mirror? Did you epoxy some threaded rod into the wall or something else?

The "puddle" one I'm not so happy with, the 3" oak for the legs came out a bit brown, didn't show until the oil went on.

I actually didn't notice until you mentioned it, but now it stands out clearly. I'm apparently not observant enough.

Thanks,
Craig

[jasonb]

The tops had about 6 coats of danish oil, I've not had problems with the same finish in the past. The ones in the grey bathroom also had to match some other oak items that I had done for the client.

As you say there are no back legs, the cabinet is in effect a carcase made from laminate covered ply (had a sheet laying around) with the legs and a top rail in oak. Doors are traditional M&T construction and there is a small infill panel between the leg and cistern boxing.

I made a hardboard template for the mirror as the ceiling sloped on one side, also put all the holes for the shelf and light above basin into the template so the glaziers coul drill it. Stuck it up with a tube of mirror adhesive. As the shelves fitted into a corner and had support from one end as well as the back I used a different method to studs. Can also look good with glass let into the shelves like this one I did just before xmas.

Jason

[craigmarshall]

Well - here's the current state of my latest project.



It's pretty much complete, a few odds and ends to clear up, but close enough to show you a photo.

I have learned quite a lot making this project, I've made a short list of instructions to myself so I hopefully don't forget these things in future.

1. Don't stain wood, it isn't very pleasant to do and it doesn't look as good as a piece of wood that has just been oiled only. Also - staining different coloured pieces of wood will not make them the same colour. (Thanks Mr Chapman - you hinted at this!)

2. Don't use dark woods unless you don't mind the workshop feeling like a cave for the duration of the finishing phase. This was a really weird feeling, when working with oak and other light woods, I can see clearly what's going on, but dark stain seems to absorb all the light you can throw at it unless you get it in the natural light.

3. When fitting doors to a face frame, leave some room behind, the door usually won't sit completely flat to the frame behind. 1mm should do and you can always use rubber buffers or rely on the latch on the non-hinge side to make it close quietly and keep the doors in the same line.

4. Bank on the sanding, staining and oiling to take as long if not longer than the woodwork.

5. Having a proper scale drawing and cutting list makes a lot of difference. Thinking through each step you're going to do in detail before doing it means you'll make fewer mistakes.

6. Don't use plain ol' plywood for panel centres. It's too easy to sand through the thin veneer, there will be voids when you think you checked it all. There will be little areas of glue grinning through the veneer (from when the plywood was originally made) and when you stain over this bits you'll want to scream. It's worth using solid wood - that's the point of frame and panel construction it allows for the centre piece of wood to move.

7. Floors and walls are never plumb or straight or square - everyone knows this already. I had to pack up one leg of my unit on a brand new freshly tiled floor. I'll saw some off the opposite back leg next time I visit.

8. Biscuit joiners are great for applying lipping to boards. I looked down on biscuit joiners not too long ago, but I've got my own now (Trend brand) and they make a lot of sense for certain things.


Highlights of the project (Another list...):

1. Tapering the legs - couldn't believe how easy this was. Makes me want to incorporate tapered legs into other projects now. Looks much more elegant!

2. Making the splash back - also very easy and very effective.


Things I'd have done differently (Last list - I promise ;D):

1. Use brown oak or black walnut. Easier, cheaper and will look 100% nicer.

2. No staining!!

3. Solid wood for the panels - absolutely worth a bit of extra effort and expense.

4. If I had enough time, do all the joinery using traditional techniques and using traditional tools, but I didn't have a month to complete it, only a week!

I like lists - as you can probably tell.

Cheers,
Craig

[paulchapman]

That looks very nice, Craig. And thanks for the lists - very useful comments.

Cheers

Paul

[dom]

Excellent commentary Craig, well worth the time and effort.

[Alf]

Craig, s'good - and the lists of what you'd change/learnt are most illuminating (I fear you're in danger of slipping away to the Dark Side with this new-found love for the biscuit jointer though... ;D ). Have a KP anyway, just to show I'm not holding it against you.

Cheers, Alf

[engineerone]

looks better in the flesh as it were than the drawing.

it is always difficult to get a scale off a drawing.

i agree about the staining.

paul