Cutting 2 mm strips on table saw

[niki]

Good day

I would like to share with you an idea that was "sitting" in my head for long time and, a few days ago, I made it.

The title is "2 mm" but it can be any thickness of strips....even less...

So...the sled is an 18mm Melamine board 900mm long and 200mm wide but, you choose yours.

I drilled 10mm "Vacuum holes" but first I drilled 6mm as a pilot hole (easier to control the drill) and than went with the 10mm drill bit to the end of the drill length

I drilled the holes at 100mm intervals but I think that the more holes, the better (say, every 60~70mm) even though, I did not have any problems with the vacuum pressure.

I drilled 20mm hole dia at the "end of the drill line"

The "Box" can be made of anything...I made it from pieces of chip-board and Melamine (that's what I found in the attic)

The Shop-vac is my converted "Electrolux" that I used on "Minimum" power.

I strongly recommend to use a "Feather board" to hold the work and sled firmly to the fence before entering the blade...especially on long boards

Regards
niki

[Scrit]

Take one rip saw with a sliding rip fence plate (so anything vaguely commercial quality and made in Europe after the late 1970s). Fit reasonable quality rip saw blade (not a combi blade). Set the rip fence to do a 2mm rip cut (a green packer does nicely for this). Pull fence plate back so that it does not project further back than the bottom of the first gullet on the blade. Make multiple cuts of 2mm....... That's how I make edge lippings

This is perhaps another advantage of a good quality Euro rip fence - you don't need a jig to cut multiple thin strips.

Scrit

[niki]

Senior
I still have some space between the potatoes and the onions that my wife stores in the garage
I made the vacuum fence because when I cut the 2 mm strips, sometimes the end of the strips falls down into the, whatever you call this hole around the saw blade...
And, I cannot sand them to whatever thickness I want...

Scrit
You gave me the most professional...and I mean professional...tools wise, answer...
I did not even hear about the "sliding rip fence plate" or the "good quality Euro rip fence"...

Amateur's life is so different...

Regards
niki

[pj]

Scrit
Sometimes I find that the last 1" or so thin strips is thiner because of a tendency for the strip to move in the region past the 1/2" fence. Is there any way of preventing this? I must admit to not using a push stick as thin as the strip and push on the top corner of the ripping. I normally just make the strip well long and cut the bad bit off.

Philip

[Scrit]

pj said:

Scrit
Sometimes I find that the last 1" or so thin strips is thinner because of a tendency for the strip to move in the region past the 1/2" fence. Is there any way of preventing this?

Well that is often the case, so just chop it off, I'd say ;D You could always try a couple of other wrinkles, namely to hot-melt glue a piece of pine stock to the back end of your piece (if it's particularly valuable stock, like wenge or cocobolo), or possibly to make-up a sacrifical "push board" which is shoved into the blade a few millimetres on each pass. You should in any case be using two push sticks (or at least one with a featherboard for side pressure) in order to keep your hands well away from the blade. One thing you'll find is that pro woodworkers will often waste a small amount of timber to save a lot of time and extra effort faffing around because for us time means money.

Hmmmm. I wonder why our edge lipping experts couldn't answer this one?

Scrit