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Post by paulchapman on Oct 7, 2007 14:25:41 GMT
Some time ago I bought a Veritas #80 type cabinet scraper. I had no real need to use it till now. Anyway, I've just tried it out on some old oak floorboards that I've been planing up and it works really well  Just turned a hook on the blade and off it went - really nice, fine shavings. It has a larger sole than the equivalent Stanley or Record, so you get a nice bearing on the wood. Anyone else use one? Cheers  Paul |
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Post by jfc on Oct 7, 2007 14:27:57 GMT
I used one i'd had for years when i made the guitar . It was a "ooooo that's good" moment .
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Post by Scrit on Oct 7, 2007 15:02:42 GMT
Stanley used to do an even better one for floors called a #82. Take a look at Patrick's Blood & Gore and you'll see what I mean. The old Skarsten scrapers were also brilliant for removing old floor finishes. Anyone know if they're still going? Scrit |
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Post by jfc on Oct 7, 2007 15:26:38 GMT
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Post by dom on Oct 7, 2007 15:27:13 GMT
I do believe Veritas now have a new and improved model Paul.
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Post by engineerone on Oct 7, 2007 16:35:01 GMT
i have one of these veritas ones, now colin has helped me sort out the "hooking" it gives a loverlly finish  don't you love big pictures  i also have one of the veritas scraper holders which i find really valuable to keep my thumbs from getting burnt. scrit i not long ago obtained a brand new packaged kirsten scraper, the paint type one with the corrugated blade, and wooden handle. but can find no yahoo reference to them any more  paul |
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Post by Keith on Oct 7, 2007 16:45:47 GMT
I have the Lie-Nielsen one, bought it specifically for smoothing some worktops in-situ. Worked really well but I haven't used it much since.
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Post by engineerone on Oct 7, 2007 16:56:21 GMT
no wonder i could not find it see that d&m are still advertsing them though. paul |
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Post by robos on Oct 7, 2007 17:17:19 GMT
Paul - one of the tools I need to get later on is a half decent scraper, not sure whether to buy the LN or the LV, but would also like a LN No9, one of those new LV ploughs, a nice long LV low angle jointer...hope you've still got the Clifton No6 safe |
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Post by paulchapman on Oct 7, 2007 20:01:59 GMT
...hope you've still got the Clifton No6 safe Yes, it's still padlocked to my hand ;D Pete will have to buy his own. Yes, engineerone, that Veritas scraper plane is nice. Next on my list, I think (don't tell the wife ). I think it has an advantage over the Lie Nielsen in that you have the option of using a thin blade (which can be bowed, as in the #80) or a thick one. The LN only gives you the thick blade option. The floorboards I've been planing up aren't for use as floorboards, I'm going to use them as under-rails for a table. Cheers Paul |
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Post by engineerone on Oct 7, 2007 21:42:52 GMT
so come on paul what's it worth not to let swmbo know about your desires for an LV scraper plane ;D what made me buy it was the multiple adjustment, but only just got round to setting it up properly. must sort out a burnisher, not sure whether to convert an old file, or a spare screwdriver  paul |
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Post by paulchapman on Oct 7, 2007 21:50:51 GMT
must sort out a burnisher, not sure whether to convert an old file, or a spare screwdriver I like the Clifton burnisher. The wooden handle and brass finger guard on it make it very comfortable to use. Actually I'm not too bothered about the wife finding out. She spotted my Clifton planes recently and hasn't spoken to me since. It's been quite peaceful and quiet ;D ;D Cheers Paul |
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Post by engineerone on Oct 8, 2007 0:13:11 GMT
typical just when you are ready for the noise and a row, they turn down the volume ;D paul |
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Post by robos on Oct 8, 2007 9:16:31 GMT
Paul the Engineer - I use the Robert's and Lee burnisher which works well...lot's of others to choose from that'll work equally well
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Post by Alf on Oct 9, 2007 13:32:11 GMT
Paul the Engineer - I use the Robert's and Lee burnisher which works well...lot's of others to choose from that'll work equally well Just as long as it's harder than the scraper then you're smiling. Although there was some recent discussion over on WoodNet about how important the polished aspect of a burnisher is. Anyone got any opinions either way? F'rinstance I like my solid carbide router cutter shank but it's not in the least bit polished. Cheers, Alf P.S. Hello all, btw <waves hand> |
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Post by paulchapman on Oct 9, 2007 13:36:49 GMT
Hi Alf, Good to see you Cheers Paul <returning wave> |
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Post by engineerone on Oct 9, 2007 14:00:02 GMT
welcome to the wild side alf, nice to see you here  i do wonder what shining the burnisher does for it, the process must surely be to raise a surface on the blade, and that might well be more difficult if the burnisher is truly polished  must try to do a grown up experiment paul |
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Post by paulchapman on Oct 9, 2007 14:17:10 GMT
I would guess the theory is that, as one is supposed to hone and polish the blade before turning the hook with the burnisher, one ought to use an equally polished burnisher so as to retain the best quality turned edge. If the burnisher has any roughness about it, it could spoil the polished edge. Having said all that, there seems to be a tremendous variety in the implements different people use. They all claim to get good results - although whether they would all be equally good in a side by side comparison is another matter Cheers Paul |
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Post by engineerone on Oct 9, 2007 15:38:35 GMT
just used my LV on the edges of some thin maple. very nice once i had figured out the grain direction will see what i can make using the tormek. paul |
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Post by dom on Oct 9, 2007 17:41:10 GMT
Alf wrote
P.S. Hello all, btw <waves hand>
I want to say "the voice of sanity has joined us"
But I don't think Alf would like that ;D
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Post by Alf on Oct 9, 2007 17:56:14 GMT
Hah, the "voice of sanity"? As if. Although maybe I'll go away again - some bugger's gorn and smited me, the swine. Has Splinter been in...? Cheers, Alf |
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Post by dom on Oct 9, 2007 17:59:40 GMT
Unsmitten
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Post by Alf on Oct 9, 2007 18:01:09 GMT
Awww, bless  ;D |
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Post by Scrit on Oct 9, 2007 20:58:35 GMT
Just as long as it's harder than the scraper then you're smiling. I think hardness is more important than polished finish, after all what you're trying to do is reform the edge of the steel. And in any case a solid carbide router cutter shank is probably ground to a very high standard and certainly to a finer grit than the "traditional" screwdriver shank. That's what I use, BTW (the solid carbide shank, that is) - some bugger's gorn and smited me, the swine. A warm hello and welcome! I'm sure someone will be along soon to deal with you..... Sorry about being smitten. You've got to watch out for that round here..... Dom, you're a creep  Scrit |
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Post by Alf on Oct 10, 2007 12:13:01 GMT
Dom, you're a creep Terrible, ain't it? ;D Well I must admit I was slightly nonplussed at the idea that I should be worrying how shiny my burnisher is. But then I suppose at one end of the scale a noticably ridged burnisher would create an inferior burr so if you take it all the way down to the other extreme then the more polished the better? Except you'd be wise to let common sense kick in and apply the law of diminishing returns - which is why I don't sharpen a scrub plane to 10,000,000 grit... I think applying the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" maxim is probably best. Just so hard to do when presented with theoretical things to get one's tool roll in a knot about... Cheers, Alf |
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;D