Combo planes

[jmk89]

For those who are interested in these curious beasts (sometimes, rather cruelly known as boat anchors or doorstops), here is a link to some good info that I at least was not aware of:
www.whitemountdesign.com/Stanley45Info.htm

[evergreen]

Excellent link. Thanks for taking the trouble to post.

Regards.

[paulchapman]

Interesting, Jeremy, that the writer of that piece seems to advocate honing just the back of beading cutters so as not to lose the shape of the cutter. I've seen this suggested elsewhere (it's referred to in Planecraft, written by the makers of the Record 405). I've tried that method but find the best results are obtained by honing both sides of the blades as normal.

Cheers

Paul

[engineerone]

very interesting, you may remember that some time recently i commented on the problems with an edge on one of my plough blades.

it was suggested that i sharpen at 30 degrees, however having lately had a sharpening session, and checked, they are already at 30 degrees, so it seems that i need to go even more steep

wonder at what angle my stanley blades stop shredding

paul

[paulchapman]

Paul,

I think most plough and combination planes come with the blades ground at about 35 degrees. It's normal to hone them at this or whatever angle they are ground at (ie don't put on a secondary bevel) otherwise it can be difficult to maintain the shape of the beading and other shaped cutters. I have always found that the blades perform well using this method.

Cheers

Paul

[engineerone]

thanks mate will try that too

paul

[jmk89]

paulchapman said:

Interesting, Jeremy, that the writer of that piece seems to advocate honing just the back of beading cutters so as not to lose the shape of the cutter. I've seen this suggested elsewhere (it's referred to in Planecraft, written by the makers of the Record 405). I've tried that method but find the best results are obtained by honing both sides of the blades as normal.

Cheers

Paul

Paul

That was one of the things that interested me. I have used the back only system for beading blades, but only when I used them on soft wood. I am not convinced that it is the correct way to deal with it and now I tend to follow Jake Darvall's advice and do the same as with other blades -

• hollow grind (I tend to do it at 30 degrees) with a coarse Al ox wheel or with the edge of a 2mm cutting wheel to get into the tight spots
  
• wetting the blade to keep it cool (I hold the blade in my fingers - if it gets to hot to hold comfortably, it's time to take the blade off the grindstone and put it in the water!!)
  
• use a slip stone to hone each part of the blade - tedious, but effective
  

This seems to be better when the edge has been taken off the cutter by the silica in Australian hardwood!!

Cheers

Jeremy

[paulchapman]

If you have any shaped cutters, like beading ones, I find the easiest way to sharpen the bevel side of the shaped piece of the blade is to make up some MDF wheels. I fit an arbor on it and use it in an old electric drill on a horizontal drill stand.



I shape the wheel by holding a rasp against it while it's revolving. I then hone the blade by holding it freehand against the wheel with the drill set on a slow speed. I use some honing compound on the wheel.



Very fast and effective.

The flat bits of the blade I hone on stones and a leather strop as normal.

Alf has some other equally effective ways of doing it on her website.

Cheers

Paul

PS Just seen your post, Jeremy. Yes, Jake's the Master at honing combination plane blades And making them He sent me this stuff about his methods www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=38105

[engineerone]

love jakes methods, and his attitude, (very australain) to elf and safety ;D

must try some of his wheels

paul

[jmk89]

Jake's methods have this strength - he doesn't ever argue ahead of his data. If he has a theory, he tries it out and then he tells you what happened, and what he thinks is the reason for the result. Even if you disagree with his theory, the only valid way to argue with Jake is to do an experiment ...

The only reason I don't use the hard felt wheels to hone and use slip stones instead is that there isn't room on the grinder for any more wheels!! (Al ox, narrow cutter, wire brush, stitched polishing wheel) and no room for another grinder in my workspace!

[paulchapman]

jmk89 said:

Jake's methods have this strength - he doesn't ever argue ahead of his data. If he has a theory, he tries it out and then he tells you what happened, and what he thinks is the reason for the result. Even if you disagree with his theory, the only valid way to argue with Jake is to do an experiment ...

Yes, I really enjoy Jake's posts. His ability to analyse problems and come up with solutions and then put them into practice is incredible. I think I've learnt more about planes and planing from Jake than anyone else - he's a great bloke

Cheers

Paul

[paulchapman]

engineerone said:

love jakes methods, and his attitude, (very australain) to elf and safety ;D

I feel sorry for his cat, who seems to enjoy drinking from the bowl that Jake soaks his water stones in

Cheers

Paul