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Post by thallow on Mar 12, 2008 22:40:48 GMT
Just a very quick update, I did try planing another couple of pieces last weekend, but the more I tried and the more frustrated I became I found that I could see whole swathes of light thru the two edges that I was attempting to join  So before I turned all of the oak into curly bits I decided to use me tablesaw to straighten the edges (on a sled) and they went together wonderfully! I haven't give up though and love a challenge so I will continue to experiment and learn, [manages to bang a nail into the side of the slope and hook a rope onto in  ] |
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Post by jfc on Mar 12, 2008 23:56:14 GMT
;D
It was a stop messing around moment then ;D
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Post by engineerone on Mar 13, 2008 0:24:04 GMT
ahhh thallow you are missing the next stage of the slope, now you need a jig to allow you to plane edges square and vertical. really nice for joining edges  come on lose the string you know you want to slide down the slope ;D ;D paul  |
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Post by dom on Mar 13, 2008 21:01:53 GMT
Just wondering what Inspector Plowright and his trust sidekick should investigate next? The adventure of the Bruce-Norris planes The adventure of the Tormek ritual The adventure of the six chisels The adventure of the dancing planes The Collector of the Baskervilles With apologies to Sir Arthur Conan doyle |
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Post by wrongnail on Mar 16, 2008 12:52:01 GMT
I am using the plane, but how do you keep the sole(?) perfectly horizontal BEFORE it is fully in contact with the wood in order to avoid the above shape? Sorry for the long winded question and apologies for this very simple query, but I am v keen to get up to speed with me methods! Thanks as always for your time and advice! Now Im back to ebay to look for more planes...woo hoo Hi Thallow, At risk of sounding unhelpful, I don't know how I do it.. I can just feel if it's wrong. Just as I can tell when an edge is at 90 to a face, by looking and feeling. I suppose it comes with practice, of which I haven't had a lot just lately! Once you plane up a pair of 'winding-sticks', (Two matching battens that are dead square and about 18 inches long, 2x1.5 inches) you'll be able to see if your boards are in wind by placing a stick at each end of the board and sighting along the sticks. Then you'll know which parts of the board need most 'stock-removal'. Sorry if you already knew that. Oh, and buy good quality planes, (Pre. 1920's, low front knob or modern Lie Nielsens. The modern Stanleys are not tools anymore.) Beware on eBay. Sometimes the plane irons are not as old as the plane they are fitted in. Best of luck, Regards John  |
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Post by wrongnail on Mar 16, 2008 20:19:16 GMT
without practice, you can cut more accurately on most power tools ie table and cross cut saw. paul Hi Engineer, Assuming the machine is set-up properly and has a sharp cutter, that's probably true. But believe me, when I first taught myself to use machines, I wasted my fair share of timber, before I found 'the knack'... So, in a good natured way, I'll dispute that claim. Even now though, I know I can do some jobs quicker by hand-tool work and of course there are jobs that need hand-tools. But there comes a time, when it's good to find a comfortable posture and let a machine do the hogging... It's either that or give up... No way... ;D Regards John |
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Post by engineerone on Mar 16, 2008 20:24:00 GMT
john we actually seem to agree  the ting is it is all practice. my point was i guess that if you buy decent power tools you can be more proficient more quickly with those two jobs, cross and rip cutting with machines. although i am getting better cross cutting by hand, i still have some problems being both square and upright. it is due to the lack of practice. and no training  obviously the rock bottom priced tools cannot be guaranteed, but i would still suggest that for many people they are still more accurate than their hand work. however i would also agree that it is better to set up a shooting board, and finish off by a decently set up hand plane paul |
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Post by wrongnail on Mar 17, 2008 10:14:46 GMT
Hi Paul,
Aye, we seem to be on the same track. Machines can enable tyros to produce good work without much application. (Maybe that was the original splinter in the back-sides of the old-school, craftsmen and the source of much disdain from them in the debate of machine v hand-tools.)
I hope not to start such a debate, but as you imply, whatever tools we use, it pays to get the best we can afford, or wait until we can!
In my case, hand dovetailing causes me a lot of backache. So I kneel down to chisel. The kneeling then hurts me old knees! I have to suffer that for nice work, but I use a dovetail jig whenever I can get away with it, for utility cupboards and drawers; for the workshop or kitchen for example.
It is still nice to work at a joint with mallet and chisel. No dust to speak of, no howling electric motors. The smell of English oak and all the time in the world to enjoy the whole experience.
Gawd, I'll be writing 'Chips from the Chisel' next!
Cheers my friend.
Regards
John
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Post by engineerone on Mar 17, 2008 12:52:25 GMT
hi john, since i am also struggling with some of the effects of being an older bugger a few thoughts. when doing the dovetails, why not make a lower bench, and use a stool to sit on, and make sure you have light overlooking. certainly saves the knees. make the bench about 30 inches high, and since you are doing mainly hand work, and on dovetails, you only need a small bench. you could make it something that clips on the side of your bench, like an auxiliary table. it would also help with doing mortices. as for the pains, could i suggest you start drinking cider vinegar daily. seems very good at reducing some of the pains us oldies get with arthritis, etc. another perhaps more controversial thought, the more i try using my LA jack, the more i like them, this one is an LN 62 which is similar in length to a no 5. very easy to get really nice thin shavings ;D ;D just cleaning up some cherry bit for another small table, and it really helps with the tear out problems. paul |
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Post by thallow on Mar 17, 2008 21:05:53 GMT
Hi guys I am continuing to read the thread with avid interest ...in this case for me the old adage about there being 'a reason for one having two ears and one mouth' is a very good one! And apart from anyhting else I continue to realise daily whilst I read your (gratefully received) comments  that the more I learn the more I realise how little I know when it comes to this woodie stuff! but am enjoying your comments and experience very much, thanks for sharing!  Thallow |
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Post by thallow on Mar 17, 2008 21:08:17 GMT
now you need a jig to allow you to plane edges square and vertical. really nice for joining edges paul Nearly forgot to ask, do you have a piccie of one of those? |
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Post by paulchapman on Mar 18, 2008 12:51:23 GMT
now you need a jig to allow you to plane edges square and vertical. really nice for joining edges paul Nearly forgot to ask, do you have a piccie of one of those? I think engineerone is referring to a shooting board. There are numerous different ways to make a shooting board but the best one I've tried out recently was designed by Pete (Newt) over on the other side - here's a link www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=22536Apart from it being a really precision job and able to be converted to a 45 degree and "donkey's ear" board (scroll down a bit for the "donkey's ear") - and fully adjustable in all its forms - the clever bit was using a cheapo plastic cutting mat from Tesco on which to run the plane. I tried out the prototype and the difference this mat makes has to be experienced to be believed. Pete stuck it down with double-sided tape. He sometimes puts a couple of drops of camelia oil on the plastic and that makes it work even better. Hope this helps. Cheers Paul |
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