cherry break out

[engineerone]

how do you know from looking where a piece of cherry is going to break out as you plane it???

having never really used it before i am planing bits up, and finding that break out is arbitrary and seems without logic, is there any way in which i can tell just by looking

and that's using a sharp la jack

paul

[modernist]

Funny isn't it - one bit is straight forward and the next is a right b**stard. I find the worst areas are near roundels in the grain where even a very finely set plane pull out chunks you wouldn't believe - or would in your case ;D ;D

I ended up buying a Veritas scraper plane which worked wonders.

The other strange thing I found was the front of the smoothing plane got very hot. I was reluctant to apply wax because of possible finishing problems.

Lovely timber though and well worth the effort.


Brian

[engineerone]

you're right brian it is a bugger,
but the thing is you can't use a scraper plane for all the work

you have to remove stuff which is where i am getting the problem at this time

mind you i will re set the jack to even finer and see what i can get.
it does come up nicely though

paul

[jfc]

;D

The other strange thing I found was the front of the smoothing plane got very hot. I was reluctant to apply wax because of possible finishing problems.

[quoteWax also marks the work , a quick squiggle from a candle works fine but you will pass that onto the the timber and it will show on the finish .

With all due respect, Jason - nuts. Show me proof of that and reverse the experience of thousands (millions?) of woodworkers over hundreds of years. Go on; I dare ya.

You'd have to shove the wax on, take one pass and then stop. It's a theoretical problem.

Cheers, Alf

I'm not alone then ;D

[modernist]

Unsurprisingly, I found a finely set mouth with the plane used skewed shifted timber with the least trouble. I then cleaned up where necessary with the scraper. I often ended up planing parts in the opposite direction which, again, needed the scraper to blend in.

Again without wish to sound too much of an anal retentive the extra rigidy and edge retention of the Lie Nielsen was much better than the Stanley.

I'm back to it myself next week after my spell on columbian pine. You only get one chance with screws! It's hard stuff.

best of luck

Brian

[Alf]

I dunno, Jas, I can only think some of you blokes are just too heavy-handed with your wax.

Paul, finer set, sharpen more often, higher effective angle? What you tried so far? And I don't know how delicate your lily whites are, but personally I often find it handy to run a finger along the grain to tell me which way the blasted stuff is going. Doesn't always work, but can sometimes save me from a nasty "oo, it looked like itwas going the other way. Bugger, look at that great chunk I've just taken out" moment.

Cheers, Alf

[engineerone]

thanks alf, the problem is of course this i sawn stuff so i am needing to clean up before i start sizing ;D

we all know jason is heavy handed
i wonder whether it is to do with still pushing down on the front at the end of the stroke??

paul

[engineerone]

actually, feeling my cherry

much of it seems quite logical, and seems to break out
in the most unusual places, not around knots

still will try a tighter mouth, and sharper edge and see.

paul

[wrongnail]

I never had this problem with Cherry. Having said that, the next time I use some I suppose it will happen!

I keep a pad of 'stockinette' soaked in linseed oil in a shallow tray, on the bench. If and when the plane needs it, I give 'er a quick wipe over the pad.
(When I had hair, natural hair-oils worked well too, but I sometimes rubbed the plane the wrong way and shaved me 'ead!) ;D

John

[matthewwh]

Mar 30, 2008 9:23:50 GMT Alf said:

higher effective angle?
, Alf

I'm thinking that might be the answer!

I tried out a 55 degree effective pitch on m'new Cliffie 4-1/2 on a bit of oak burr yesterday and got luvverly smooth, reasonably continuous shavings. Usually I wouldn't go near a piece of timber like that with anything short of an infill. I also planed a piece of straight grained English walnut against the grain and got a stunningly smooth finish.



I know species behave differently, but I would think that if higher angles can tame gnarly burrs, then they might also offer a solution for switching grain in cherry.

Cheers,


Matthew

[engineerone]

nice one matthew

having been away a few days, will look at my newly
sharpened LN item in the next couple of days, and see what
that does. ;D

will revert when i have some more info.

paul