What tool for teak doors .

[jfc]

I have some teak doors to refurb on a boat and wondered if a scraper plane would be any good for this . The teak has gone grey so they will need some material taken off and a normal scraper has been good for this on the handrails but i can see alot of gouging going on if i try to use this type on the doors .

[modernist]

Why should there be gouging on the doors?

[mrgrimsdale]

Have you tried oil? Might not need gouging.

cheers
Jacob

[jfc]

Because its a flatter area than the handrail . I'm using one of those scrapers with a planer blade in it and it tends to want to wonder on flat areas i have found . There are also flaking parts of varnish so they need to be rubbed back to the nice teak again , a scraper gets the job done quicker .

[evergreen]

I was browsing through an extremely up-market garden furniture catalogue only last night. Just curiosity, no intention of buying, I can assure you. I noticed that the grey weathered effect on teak was considered highly desirable and teak oil was not recommended unless the furniture was to be kept under cover permmanently. They suggested that grey weathered teak should only be cleaned once in a while and they sold what they called a "teak brightener" set specifially for that. Which is probably just a scrubbing brush and sugar soap.

I'd just clean the teak. It's only going to weather again, whatever you do.

Regards.

[jfc]

The customer doesnt want grey teak . If he did he wouldnt have asked me to get it back to clean teak He wants me to get it looking nice so he can then keep up the maintenance on them .

[paulchapman]

One of these



or one of these



should do the job well.

Cheers

Paul

[jfc]

Thats what i was asking ;D I am using one of these

for the handrails but it tends to want to follow the grain . Actually it tends to go where the hell it wants

[Lord Nibbo]

No teak on a boat should be sanded scraped and certainly not power washed. Scrubbed yes but only across the grain and even then only using sea water with a little detergent in it.

Sanding or scaping it is shortening it life by the odd millimeter every time it's done and as most decks are less than 1/2" (12mm) thick it ain't going to last long is it.

Most Americans go in for heavily oiled decks, even to the extent of varnish, thats pure vandalism in my view.

I repeat it should only be scrubbed across the grain or you'll end up with teak full of ridges.

For varnished doors that have got wet and stained under the varnish is to remove the varnish treat the stained wood with oxalic acid wash off with clean water then after drying apply three or four coats of danish oil, it's more durable than varnish in an interior such as doors and it's easier to maintain.

[modernist]

One good way of cleaning off algae etc and some of the greyness is to use B & Q patio timber cleaner containing Biocide. There is also a version called Boracol which does the same thing. This is simply sponged or mopped on liberally and left to dry. All the crud then dies, turns to dust and blows away. I use this once every six months on the teak deck of my boat and have used it for 4 years with no ill effects and no wear. What L Nibbo says is true. No scrubbing or scraping, especially with the grain - it will end up like a ploughed field.

cheers

Brian

[jfc]

The teak handrails are 60mm thick and the doors are 40mm thick and we are on the non Tidal thames . If you can keep on top of the varnish then i see no problem in it but most are to lazy to spend time keeping on top of it . I have very little teak on my boat and i cant be bothered ! I dont go to my boat to varnish !
If varnished properly (At least 12 coats mixed with turps ) then you are just rubbing down the varnish not the wood ?
I suppose it all depends what you want to do , go boating or go varnishing ;D

Go varnishing does look good though

[Lord Nibbo]

jfc said:

Go varnishing does look good though

Looks good!...... I can't disagree with that but at a cost. Just look at this pic below. This girl spent at least two hours every morning claening and polishing this table OK I suppose if you can afford a crew


and what about this boat I took pics of in Falmouth every inch including the hull all brightwork.

[jfc]

I did suggest the varnish but my friend wants to be able to do a quick rub down and a coat of oil when needed . A sort of start again but this time keep on top of it .

Anyway Its a glue up in the workshop tomorrow morning and then onto the doors .

I like working on other peoples boats ;D

[Lord Nibbo]

jfc said:

I like working on other peoples boats ;D

Ah! It's a steel built boat.

It's got to be Dutch built then, masters of making steel float pretty.

Two guesses, a Stephens or a Linssen ?

[jfc]

It's a Pedro . With some nice clean teak doors

[modernist]

Nice job, send us a pic with the oil.

cheers

Brian

[wrongnail]

I wouldn't want to step on that varnished deck, after a rain-shower, not even with deck-shoes on. Base over Apex in no time flat.
Scrub your teak with salt-water and tepol (If you can get any) or washing up liquid, across the grain, as Nibbo suggests.

Regards

WN

[jfc]

Or chuck a bit of non slip / sand in the last coat