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Post by jimturn on Nov 29, 2007 20:43:12 GMT
Hi Scrit, many thanks for your advice. ;D ;D ;D It's great to finally make contact with you and as you can see, I've registered with Woodwork UK. I haven't yet attempted to explore the Incra or the Mulecab mitre fences but I intend to asap. The need (nagging from SWMBO) to earn a living leaves me precious little time to do the important things in life, like attempting to reduce the world shortage of wood dust/shavings. Incidentally, when I posted my query on UKW, DaveL advised he had a 10"AGS too and had purchased an Osborne EB-3 a few years ago and is very happy with it. Apparently they are American (and used by Norm) and are reliable and accurate. They also have a cam mechanism to ensure a good fit in the mitre slot. Are you familiar with them or have you had any feedback about these?
Many thanks again for your help. Jim.
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Post by Scrit on Nov 29, 2007 22:07:00 GMT
Hi Jim and welcome!
FGlad to have been of help. I'm sorry I have no direct experience of the Osborne, but if DaveL is happy with it then I'm sure it will do the job for you. One of the plusses to these after-market fences is that whilst they are not as robust as the original Wadkin mitre fences they are probably a lot more accurate and many can be fitted with flip-over stops - a real boon for repaet mitre cutting (such as picture frame or sash beads)
Regards
Scrit
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Post by 9fingers on Nov 30, 2007 10:22:42 GMT
Apologies for a bit of a thread hi-jack.
I've not seen the details of any flip over stops but I can't help wondering how they cope with an already mitred sharp end against the stop. Does the end tend to creep behind the stop or is there a cunning design to stop this?
Bob
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Post by dom on Nov 30, 2007 17:29:16 GMT
On my machines they're more like flip ups so the point can't creep behind
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Post by misterfish on Dec 2, 2007 13:18:12 GMT
I have a Kreg 'aftermarket' mitre gauge on my table saw. This has a flip over stop and you would have to be careful with pointy bits of wood creeping behind the stop.     I did a bit of looking around when I wanted a replacement mitre gauge as my tablesaw (a Wadkin BRT - very similar to an AGS but metric throughout) has 20mm mitre slots and the 'standard' 3/4 inch ones are only 19mm (ish) so I needed something accurate with lots of adjustment and the Kreg fitted the bill with its width adjustment made by several long grubscrews across the width of the bar. Kreg were very helpful with customer information and support.   The original Wadkin gauge is OK but like most standard gauges not very wide. The table saw actually has a sliding table assembly (shown below but currently removed) which will extend a few feet to the left of the blade (it extends another three feet or so than shown in the picture and it has a built in spring loaded width stop but it has no adjustable back fence to be able to cut angles, so I removed it and replaced it with my DIY left extension table. It also took up a lot of space. ![]() www.drosera.f2s.com/ts 002.jpg[/img] ![]() www.drosera.f2s.com/ts 004.jpg[/img] Misterfish |
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Post by Scrit on Dec 2, 2007 14:18:31 GMT
The solution to the stops is simply to add a piece of acrylic plastic to the face of the stoip and adjust the ruler accordingly. Industrial panel saws have solid aluminium flip stops which give you just such a flat face
Scrit
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Post by engineerone on Dec 2, 2007 20:02:48 GMT
isn't there something to be said for adding a piece of sand paper or abrasive to the fence to hold the work?? paul  |
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Post by Scrit on Dec 2, 2007 23:25:30 GMT
isn't there something to be said for adding a piece of sand paper or abrasive to the fence to hold the work?? With a sliding carraige, no, with a mitre fence maybe, but if you have a flip stop it isn't really necessary Scrit |
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Post by engineerone on Dec 3, 2007 0:17:00 GMT
i was just thinking that for the mitre gauge, it would push you out enough to overcome the problem of the sharp edge moving behind the flip stop. paul |
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Post by nickw on Dec 3, 2007 8:51:29 GMT
Except that it would also push the flip stop out.
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Post by engineerone on Dec 3, 2007 14:40:12 GMT
so basically you're stuffed whichever way you go ;D paul |
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Post by 9fingers on Dec 3, 2007 18:54:04 GMT
so basically you're stuffed whichever way you go ;D paul If the fence had a shallow groove running the whold length of the guiding face say 3mm wide 3mm deep and 6mm up from the table surface and the flip over stop had a matching protrusion that fitted into the groove, then this would serve to give a precise stop to pointed ends for the second mitre cut. The Kreg pictured above already has such a groove so all it need is a change to the flip over part. Now where did I put the phone number of the Patent Office? Bob |
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Post by dom on Dec 3, 2007 19:40:15 GMT
Here is a picture of my flip stops the end one which extends out to two metres is not effective for mitres.  |
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Post by Scrit on Dec 3, 2007 22:57:55 GMT
Dom, the inner one is a sprung retracting stop, not a flip stop......
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Post by dom on Dec 4, 2007 6:32:11 GMT
Yeh well, it flips up, ooh look at that, so does my middle finger ;D
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Post by Scrit on Dec 4, 2007 18:33:22 GMT
What's that peculiar sign Italians give?
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Post by dom on Dec 4, 2007 18:57:15 GMT
Can't find one in the smilies ;D
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Post by misterfish on Dec 5, 2007 10:16:42 GMT
If the fence had a shallow groove running the whold length of the guiding face say 3mm wide 3mm deep and 6mm up from the table surface and the flip over stop had a matching protrusion that fitted into the groove, then this would serve to give a precise stop to pointed ends for the second mitre cut. The Kreg pictured above already has such a groove so all it need is a change to the flip over part. Bob Actually Bob, I've stuck sandpaper on to the face to stop timber slipping sideways when against the very slippy and shiny blue aluminium. This was recommended by Kreg if I remember rightly. Being lazy and in a rush at the time I just stuck the sandpaper on the face and over the groove but will cut it away from the groove when I use the stop facility next. Also bear in mind that the bottom of the flip over stop is a bit above the table surface, so you need to keep the pointy bit of mitre cuts against the fence surface . Misterfish |
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Post by 9fingers on Dec 5, 2007 21:16:46 GMT
If the fence had a shallow groove running the whold length of the guiding face say 3mm wide 3mm deep and 6mm up from the table surface and the flip over stop had a matching protrusion that fitted into the groove, then this would serve to give a precise stop to pointed ends for the second mitre cut. The Kreg pictured above already has such a groove so all it need is a change to the flip over part. Bob Actually Bob, I've stuck sandpaper on to the face to stop timber slipping sideways when against the very slippy and shiny blue aluminium. This was recommended by Kreg if I remember rightly. Being lazy and in a rush at the time I just stuck the sandpaper on the face and over the groove but will cut it away from the groove when I use the stop facility next. Also bear in mind that the bottom of the flip over stop is a bit above the table surface, so you need to keep the pointy bit of mitre cuts against the fence surface . Misterfish Hi Misterfish, Fair point, I had only really considered mitre cutting with the fence set over 45 degrees and so the 'pointed' end would be vertical. (rather than tipping the blade) The suggestion I made would only work if the flip over stop had a protrusion that fits into the groove in the fence. In this way the pointed end fits against a positively defined pair of surfaces. Bob |
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