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Post by stehleuk on Jan 10, 2008 18:32:11 GMT
Bob
Its a new material developed in Germany and only just available in UK. I dont yet have the full specs (and may not be given the full details as it appears to have been registered) but the trials have produced a cutting edge as good as HSS with the same life.
but cheaper
Doug
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Post by 9fingers on Jan 10, 2008 20:23:35 GMT
Thanks Doug,
I've not found anything from a web search.
Bob
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Post by sainty on Jan 17, 2008 8:55:22 GMT
Sorry to drag this back into discussion, but does the mitre lock cutter work in three dimensions? i.e. could you make a box with all edges mitred? In my mind (a curious place at the best of times) it works but i think that there must be some pretty fragile corners that might make machining a bit precarious.
rgds
Sainty
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Post by jfc on Jan 17, 2008 18:25:54 GMT
Yes you could do that .
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Post by sainty on Jan 17, 2008 21:24:06 GMT
Thanks JFC
rgds
Sainty
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Post by modernist on Jan 20, 2008 23:01:56 GMT
Nick Interesting technique and definitely one to remember ;D Im using it on the router table because the cutter is for a router . I couldnt find it off the peg for the spindle . Take a look at this, then, Jason. Can't find any reference for cutters for use in a Euro block, however  Scrit As someone pointed our to me recently the same cutter block is available at a much power price (about £85 I think) on the Felder/Hammer Christmas offer and available even normally for less. My problem is that I am using veneered MDF and I gather it is a no-no for that owing to the fragile edges I have also looked for cutters for a universal block but without success. Brian |
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Post by cuttingsolutions on Jan 21, 2008 13:19:13 GMT
You should not experience any problems using that cutterhead for mdf provided the carbide knives are not old and blunt.
Have to say £85 is a very low price.
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Post by dom on Jan 21, 2008 17:45:41 GMT
Welcome Cuttingsolutions I think on vennered MDF you may get splintering. But now I've looked at your website do you know something we should know. All advice gratefully received.  |
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Post by modernist on Jan 21, 2008 20:13:46 GMT
Welcome Cuttingsolutions I think on vennered MDF you may get splintering. But now I've looked at your website do you know something we should know. All advice gratefully received. That's interesting (having also looked at the website) as I have a problem at work. We cut amongst other things 90 Shore hardness Polyester (PU) sheet in 6-25mm thicknesses. We use a Hammer panel saw with sliding table and a standard rip or general purpose blase. The problem is melting onto the sides of the blade although the rip is better than the GP. Has CS any words of wisdom? Amazing what you stumble into on this forum.  |
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Post by nickw on Jan 22, 2008 9:04:10 GMT
Where's the web site then?
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Post by paulchapman on Jan 22, 2008 9:10:39 GMT
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Post by cuttingsolutions on Jan 22, 2008 17:39:30 GMT
All advice gratefully received. Dom thankyou for the welcome. I am more than happy to advise where my knowledge will be of help. With the carbide knives in the cutterhead it really shouldnt give any chipping or furring. These things of course depend on the machine, feed speeds, spindle speeds material and operator. with the mitre lock there is the problem of keeping the material firmly against the tool when cutting the vertical joint. Solution to that is to turn the head over on the spindle but you need to invert the motor......which i would not recommend on here..only usually possible on cnc machines. CS |
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Post by cuttingsolutions on Jan 22, 2008 18:04:15 GMT
Modernist. If I understand correctly the "shore" number is a measure of the hardness which i have not personally seen before. the 90 suggests it is quite hard.....having googled making a broad assumption that it is a fairly common hard polyester sheet..... It is probable that you would need different blades for cutting different thicknesses of material. For example do you get the material melting to the side of the blade on the thinner 6 mm material? Different tooth configuration. Different face grind on the teeth. How high above the material are the teeth when cutting? Sorry a bit of thread drift here..... |
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rich
New Member
Posts: 31
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Post by rich on Jan 22, 2008 18:17:29 GMT
At the risk of sounding pedantic, should it be spelt SHAW? I could be wrong.
Rich.
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Post by dom on Jan 22, 2008 18:29:39 GMT
Thanks CS.
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Post by modernist on Jan 22, 2008 19:42:55 GMT
All advice gratefully received. Dom thankyou for the welcome. I am more than happy to advise where my knowledge will be of help. With the carbide knives in the cutterhead it really shouldnt give any chipping or furring. These things of course depend on the machine, feed speeds, spindle speeds material and operator. with the mitre lock there is the problem of keeping the material firmly against the tool when cutting the vertical joint. Solution to that is to turn the head over on the spindle but you need to invert the motor......which i would not recommend on here..only usually possible on cnc machines. CS Why can't you just use a feather board against the fence - or am I missing something? |
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Post by modernist on Jan 22, 2008 19:44:28 GMT
At the risk of sounding pedantic, should it be spelt SHAW? I could be wrong. Rich. I've always known it as Shore "A" for rubber and plastics. Tyre rubber is 65 washing up bowl about 95, pencil rubber about 45. |
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Post by modernist on Jan 22, 2008 19:52:27 GMT
Modernist. If I understand correctly the "shore" number is a measure of the hardness which i have not personally seen before. the 90 suggests it is quite hard.....having googled making a broad assumption that it is a fairly common hard polyester sheet..... It is probable that you would need different blades for cutting different thicknesses of material. For example do you get the material melting to the side of the blade on the thinner 6 mm material? Different tooth configuration. Different face grind on the teeth. How high above the material are the teeth when cutting? Sorry a bit of thread drift here..... Hi and thanks for coming back. See my note above re Shore hardness. Re the blade height it is usually set fairly high with maybe 50mm above the material. If you imagine 20mm thick washing up bowl material that is about it. I thought I should minimise the amount of blade in the cut to reduce heat build up and I have heard of a lubricant called Bo-Air but havn't found any. There is a considerable improvement with the front and top rake only rip blades. Clearing the swarf can be difficult as it can fuse together however a larger extractor has recently improved things by a> having more suck and b> drawing more cooling air past the blade. We are initially making full 3020mm long cuts before crosscutting so feed speed can be difficult to judge. Brian |
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Post by cuttingsolutions on Jan 22, 2008 20:58:10 GMT
Should this be moved to a new thread as its getting a long way from the original post and "may" have useful general info......mods its up to you....
Brian
So many questions here which will help me build the web site
Re-Mitre Lock. yes the feather board should help though would still be liable to movement. but the application is not my forte.
Shore hardness noted and if its washing up bowl material a lot softer than i thought.
Interesting you believe 50mm above the material is reducing the amount of blade in the material at cut. I have always recommended that the bottom of the tooth gullet should be 5-10mm above the material, which also reduces the possibility of fingers getting in the way. so with a good quality blade you would have only 22mm above the material.
can you tell me:
how many different thicknesses you cut
diameter of saw blade
how many teeth you have on the rip and x-cut (i have seen blades called rip when they are x-cut)
tooth configuration (alternate bevel, triple chip, positive/negative hook angle)
the brand of blade used (this will tell me the hook, relief and clearance angles)....you may need to get a saw doctor to alter these angles but i doubt it.
Forget the lubricant. I really dont think you need it.
CS
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Post by modernist on Jan 22, 2008 22:42:47 GMT
We can drift back to mitre lock later (if the mods let us) as there are unresolved issues there (like the razor edges produced).
Re the saw the blades are standard Hammer but I will get the full data tomorrow.
Re washing up bowl - OK then a hardish one.
Re depth of cut I thought the higher then blade then the shorter the cut within the material.
Brian
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Post by cuttingsolutions on Jan 22, 2008 23:00:27 GMT
Dont know who make the Hammer blades.....so not sure of the quality.
Are they sharp? serviced regularly? biggest fault is blunt blades for poor quality cut.
Hardness should not be an issue, even with "hardish washing up bowls" material
Height.....try it with a new or recently sharpened saw blade...who does the reginds?
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Post by modernist on Jan 23, 2008 20:27:01 GMT
PM sent so as not to fall foul of the system
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Post by dom on Jan 23, 2008 20:29:19 GMT
No problem guys, we can all learn something new, bedsides we don't have a section for cutting up washing up bowls ;D
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Post by paulchapman on Jan 23, 2008 20:49:36 GMT
bedsides we don't have a section for cutting up washing up bowls ;D Why not  I think we should be told........ ;D |
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Post by modernist on Jan 23, 2008 20:54:22 GMT
I'll report back ;D
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I think we should be told........ ;D