Protecting cast iron tables ...

[woof]

Hello all and Happy New Year,

Just before Chrimbo I bought a axminster table saw and am now putting it together. Beautiful cast iron but now I am worried about looking after it well - as I work in a damp garage. Over "the other place" there are a variety of suggestions and Scrit waxed lyrical ;D about liberon lubricating wax? How about I use black bison clear paste wax ... since I have tons left over from my first finished project! Or shall I stick with former?

Thanks all, Mark

[engineerone]

any wax will do, but obviously the one you have is always best cause you can start putting it on now.

waiting for the lub gives the rust a chance to strike. the important thing is the regular application, and keeping the surface
dry and properly cleaned.

paul

[Alf]

Hi Mark,

The Black Bison should keep the rust at bay okay; the benefit of the Lubo wax is it'll do that and (wait for it) lubricate. So in the long term I'd definitely go for that, but the BB will see you okay meantime.

Enjoy your new toy. Tool. I mean tool. ;D

Cheers, Alf

[9fingers]

Here is my method of protecting machines from rust that has been proven over 25 years on some of my machines.

www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=14547&highlight=

The longterm solution is to fix the damp in your garage as it will not only impact on your tools but stored timber and work in progress so unless you don't plan to be working in there for very long, proper dampproofing should be on your do list IMHO

Bob

[woof]

Thanks for the advice as always. WIll put lubo wax on my next axminster order.

Long term soultion of dealing with the damp. Yes this is on the cards - looking to replace the up n over metal garage door with a wooden jobbie, and seal up the holes between roof rafters and outside. Once this is done, what is the best option to deal with the damp air ? (I live in the countryside, and is much damper then towns as there isn't the mass of brick around). So, dehumidifier or just an oil radiator - and how often? I remember years ago a little paraffin stove would have been ideal to just keep the temperautre

[9fingers]

Forget the paraffin stove. That will put water back into the atmosphere as it burns. Same with calor gas stoves.

Firstly make everthing draft proof. You want as few changes of air as possible especially in the winter months. Now war on damp.
Add a DPM to floor - possibly best to use synthaprufe or similar (wickes version was about the cheapest). Put down a plywood floor. ideally with some insulation under but not essential. Dry line the walls and add insulation 25mm foam will do-more is better. I used 25mm and tannalised tiling battens as studs. Put a vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation. Polythene sheet is fine. Line walls with 18mm shuttering ply. Using this thickness means you can fix things to it with ease without having to search for studs.
Put in a ceiling with 100mm fibrglass and vapour barrier.
Paint walls and ceiling with white emulsion for max light reflection.
This lot might cost about the same as one modest machine but you only do it once to protect the lot.

A small oil filled radiator on a thermostat will keep the edge off. Mine is set to about 15 degrees. 750 watts is keeping 30 sq metre floor area (about 2.75m high ceiling) warm & dry.
I've just completed a 2 week trial tonight. Background heating is consuming 300watt on average (101Kw hrs in 2 weeks ). About £5 per week in winter.
You should not need this much for a single garage.

This really works!

Bob