Startrite 352

[argus]

The cool block guides are showing signs of wear again and I'm thinking of using the Axminster band saw guides?

www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Bandsaw-Blade-Guide-System-Upgrade-21586.htm

Axminster’s web site suggests that there may be some mods needed but understandably doesn’t elaborate.

What modifications are necessary to a Startrite 352

Has anyone used them on one of these saws? Any ideas?

Thanks in advance

[mrgrimsdale]

Are you sure they need replacing? Mine are the original ones still OK after about 30 years of rough use. I'm thinking of filing out the slot slightly so that they'll close up better, but other than that I'd expect them to see me out.
You could have them re-faced at an engineers if necessary. Never done mine though. I turn them now and then to even out wear.

cheers
Jacob

[argus]

.

Thanks, Mr G.
This example is about 15 years old.
The original blocks and the thrust pin were replaced within a year because of premature wear.
I do periodically turn them, to show opposing faces, but there is discernible wear. And the cost of getting a one-off job done at a machine shop to bring them back into true would probably be equal to a decent set of bearing guides.

I just wanted to know if there were any major mods with the Axminster gear for this saw.

.

[mel]

do i detect that you have a power tool mr grimsdale ;D

[mrgrimsdale]

argus said:

.

Thanks, Mr G.
This example is about 15 years old.
The original blocks and the thrust pin were replaced within a year because of premature wear.
I do periodically turn them, to show opposing faces, but there is discernible wear. And the cost of getting a one-off job done at a machine shop to bring them back into true would probably be equal to a decent set of bearing guides.

I just wanted to know if there were any major mods with the Axminster gear for this saw.

.

I would expect genuine Startrite blocks to be much better than the Axminster replacements. Praps your replacements were'nt Startrite and that's why they haven't lasted?

cheers
Jacob

[argus]

.

Nope.

The original blocks and pin were new with the machine, which was also new - 15 years ago. The hard steel pin tip welded on to the thrust pin came off.

The replacements were also obtained from Startrite when they still existed.
It's all working, no problem except that the blocks are showing wear tracks and I thought of replacing them with something that might be better resistant to wear and easier to adjust. Bearings are a definite improvement on friction blocks in my opinion.

I do hope that's sufficient justification.

.

.

[scrums]

Whilst we're on the subject of Startrite 352's....mine's totally crap....3ph and I've turned up the thingy in the switch gear to stop it cutting out, but it still does.

Unless it's got a virtually new blade it's not a happy beast. How long do your blades last, mine eats them.

Chris.

[9fingers]

Assuming the overload unit is correctly matched to the motor, ie the original as supplied by the manufacturer, then adjusting the setting is not the way to manage the problem.
Find out what is wrong. Does the motor run hot? Your guides could be adjusted wrongly and taking the set off the teeth making it blunt prematurely. Are you pushing the work through too fast. Maybe too many teeth per inch for the workpiece. Reckon on about 3 teeth in contact with the work all the time. Are you using decent blades or furrin ones made of cheese?

Just a thought as I have heard of it before, are you putting the blade in the right way round? - the cutting points down towards the table and in the direction of travel of the blade and is the motor running in the right direction?
if not just swap any two phases over in the control box or motor.

hth

Bob

[mrgrimsdale]

scrums said:

Whilst we're on the subject of Startrite 352's....mine's totally crap....3ph and I've turned up the thingy in the switch gear to stop it cutting out, but it still does.

Unless it's got a virtually new blade it's not a happy beast. How long do your blades last, mine eats them.

Chris.

If the machine isn't faulty it sounds like you might be using it at the faster speed - which doesn't tolerate a lot of work and blunts blades fast.
Too high tension doesn't help either - it needs to be just tight enough not to slip and to stay on track. Any tighter just shortens blade life
I always use slow speed. Don't know why it has a higher gear I've never felt the need.
Blades don't last long anyway, whatever the brand, depending on what you are doing - deep ripping the worst.

cheers
Jacob

[argus]

.

I've had good use from mine, I must admit. Apart from my problem with the guides, I found it quite a rugged machine.

Good quality blades last reasonably well with me, given that most of my work (almost all, in fact) is in Oak. But I do tend to replace them after each major job, anyway and to build the cost into the Job. I usually get them from Axminster. They don't last for ever.

I should say that mine is single phase, running from a 13 amp outlet.

The thermal overload protection in a 3 ph starter is normally set by default to 115% the full load current, which will be declared on the name plate.

It's possible to increase it, but keep an eye on the current draw and motor temperature, if you can.

In addition to the imposed loading from the work, current draw can be increased by a reduction in the supply voltage (though most motors are well capable of dealing with this) but one thing that is often overlooked and causes an increase in current, is an imbalance in the voltage between the phases (less than 2% I believe from memory) or across the starter contacts. There should be no measurable drop between phases and to neutral across both sides of the contacts. These do deteriorate with use and will give a voltage drop and get hot enough to trip the thermal overloads when they get pitted.
Alternatively the motor may be full of dust. A good blow through will do the trick.

.

[scrums]

Thanks guys - blade is right way round and going in right direction

It is on faster speed though and the motor probably needs a good blow through......next new blade I'll give it a good seeing to and also run on a lower tension.

Chris.

[Scrit]

argus said:

I do periodically turn them, to show opposing faces, but there is discernible wear. And the cost of getting a one-off job done at a machine shop to bring them back into true would probably be equal to a decent set of bearing guides.

Last lot I had done were under £20. A full set of decent quality bearing guides will cost you a lot more than that. My current bandsaw (a Bursgreen) uses wooden guide blocks - they're quiter than bearings and in my opinion run a lot more freely

Scrit