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Post by motownmartin on Nov 27, 2007 18:47:40 GMT
Has anyone made wooden hinges before, how would you drill for the pin, I have a steel jig but don't have a drill press and don't fancy drilling with a pistol drill freehand with a 5" long 1/8" diameter bit.
I thought about making some kind of jig where I can clamp the drill and slide the jig+hinge into the drill.
Your thoughts please.
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Post by Scrit on Nov 27, 2007 19:06:08 GMT
As you say a drill press woul;d be a better way to start them off, but very few drill presses can cope with 5in either (take a look - you'll find a lot of machines with up to 4in/100mm stroke but above that there aren't so many). Have you considered starting the hole using a router and same-size bit? This should give you a true starting hole and an auger bit in a brace sould then be able to follow through true.
Scrit
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Post by motownmartin on Nov 27, 2007 19:16:29 GMT
Hi Scrit, thanks for the reply, I can start it off OK as the jig guides the drill but a bit scared of breaking the drill as i'm not good with pistol drills ;D that's why I was thinking of some kind of fool proof set up.
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Post by engineerone on Nov 27, 2007 21:17:53 GMT
how about one of the jigs which holds the drill parallel to the bench, you often get them with those cheap sharpening kits sold on qvc, etc. so you have the drill parallel to the bench, then you make a wooden block to set the hinge at the drill height, and move the hinge into the drill slowly. would think about drilling from both ends to ensure it meets in the right place. paul  |
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Post by motownmartin on Nov 27, 2007 21:33:59 GMT
how about one of the jigs which holds the drill parallel to the bench, you often get them with those cheap sharpening kits sold on qvc, etc. so you have the drill parallel to the bench, then you make a wooden block to set the hinge at the drill height, and move the hinge into the drill slowly. would think about drilling from both ends to ensure it meets in the right place. paul I got it, i'll knock something up tomorrow with some off cuts, already got the jig for drilling, the suggested operation is to put the jig in a bench vice and pistol drill through, noooooo chance, it'll cost a fortune in drills ;D |
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Post by Scrit on Nov 27, 2007 22:28:42 GMT
Hi Scrit, thanks for the reply, I can start it off OK as the jig guides the drill but a bit scared of breaking the drill as i'm not good with pistol drills ;D that's why I was thinking of some kind of fool proof set up. To my mind there are TWO major problems with cordless drills - firstly, unlike their corded bretheren it impossible to "dial-in" a drilling speed, consequently they spin at too high a speed for truly controlled drilling - secondly their behaviour when the battery is approaching exhaustion is to say the least erratic (for example they tend to bust the stepped drills used with pocket hole jigs when the battery is running down). For that reason my site work kit includes a traditional brace and auger bits which are much more controllable. Some of the old ways actually are better in certain instances..... Would think about drilling from both ends to ensure it meets in the right place. Without a really accurate drill press and/or jig I'd avoid that solution like the proverbial as you're risking the two holes not meeting in exactly the same place. But then maybe I've never learned to do it right....... Scrit |
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Post by motownmartin on Nov 27, 2007 22:37:32 GMT
To my mind there are TWO major problems with cordless drills - Without a really accurate drill press and/or jig I'd avoid that solution like the proverbial as you're risking the two holes not meeting in exactly the same place. But then maybe I've never learned to do it right....... Scrit Don't own a cordless, yet  Shan't be drilling from one end. I may not have a lot of knowledge about wood but when it comes to engineering I am a little more informed, I am building an idea in my head at the moment, a base with a couple of sides at one end to place the drill, clamp it with a bolt, raise the other side and create a slot for the jig to slide back and forth, if that makes any sense. All will be revealed tomorrow, if I have time. |
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Post by engineerone on Nov 27, 2007 22:38:05 GMT
scrit, i think it is not that you have never been able, rather i would tend to do it in two stage, one drill a centre hole, then drill the second, and then see whether the two join  as you have said, unless one has a floor standing pillar drill getting the length will be difficult. the other way of course is to use a lathe ;D paul |
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Post by Scrit on Nov 27, 2007 23:12:56 GMT
Paul's idea of a block with a hole in it is a valid approach. It's how I generally tackle angled holes - drill the block (on a drill press ), transfer to piece, drill, remove, drill deeper (using exiting hole to guide bit). In my experience the type of drill bit you use is critical to success, Spade bits are useless (tend to wander, rough finish), Forstners are hard work (slow, need clearing often, etc), jobber bits aren't designed for timber and can wander, brad point bits are better but still clog and can wander which leaves auger bits which are self-guiding but best used at slow speeds. Whatever you use frequent withdrawing and clearing will be ncessary to keep it all running smoothly. Personally I haven't drilled hinges, but I have made "floating" shelves where it was necessary to drill true for 125mm - that was 80mm on the drill press with the balance by auger/brace. The other way of course is to use a lathe ;D Errr, how? I can see a lathe being used with turned work but holding a rectangular/odd shaped item in the chuck might prove to be a challenge, even if you had a lathe ;D Scrit |
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Post by engineerone on Nov 27, 2007 23:51:53 GMT
bloody typical, in the past one has often placed the work on the bed of the lathe, at a specific height, and put the drill in the chuck. otherwise use a four jaw chuck, and put the drill into the headstock. works in metal. paul |
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Post by cbrsyd on Nov 28, 2007 11:44:07 GMT
Would think about drilling from both ends to ensure it meets in the right place. Without a really accurate drill press and/or jig I'd avoid that solution like the proverbial as you're risking the two holes not meeting in exactly the same place. But then maybe I've never learned to do it right....... Scrit The method I use to drill holes deeper than the stoke of my drill press is a bit fiddly but works well for me. You need a bit of straight bar the same diameter as the hole you are drilling. First you drill half way into the workpiece and put it on one side. Drill a blind hole in a piece of MDF and chuck the straight bar in the drill. Line up the hole in the MDF directly under bar and clamp the MDF to the drill table. Put a short piece of the bar in the hole in the MDF so it protrudes about 12mm. This should now be centered directly under the drill. Turn the workpiece over and clamp it in place on the MDF with the hole you have already drill centered on the short piece of protruding bar. Drill the second half of the hole and it should meet the first hole perfectly. There you go, clear as mud. |
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Post by motownmartin on Nov 28, 2007 11:56:14 GMT
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Post by engineerone on Nov 28, 2007 12:23:12 GMT
actually i have one of the old minicraft drill sets, in that they included a "lathe " facility, it was rather like one of the drill stands that axminster sell. it has two legs, and end plates you fix the drill at one end, and then work the material in the middle as it were. one of the axminster drill stands will hold your pistol drill at various angles, and thus will go horizontal, and would also help in this situation. but so far what you have done looks like it will work ok, as long as the feed speed is not to fast. paul |
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Post by Dave S on Nov 28, 2007 13:20:24 GMT
When you mentioned 5" I was thinking that they were pretty big hinges. I see what you mean now, from your pictures.
Maybe I'm missing something, but couldn't you assemble the two parts of the hinge and then drill? You'd have far less depth to drill.
Dave
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Post by motownmartin on Nov 28, 2007 13:34:41 GMT
Maybe I'm missing something, but couldn't you assemble the two parts of the hinge and then drill? You'd have far less depth to drill. Dave You could do it like that but you would still have to jig it, if the hole was skewed then the hinge wouldn't work, the jig that I am using guides the drill through each leg individually. |
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Post by evergreen on Nov 28, 2007 20:16:11 GMT
Martin
That's very clever. I presume you slide that black sledge thing towards the drill? Did you have it handy or did you have to raid some other machine for it?
You've obviously solved your problem but I was going to suggest the use of that long forgotten tool - the hand drill. I've got a German hand drill which is a dead ringer for a Stanley 803 and it's a joy to use for small diameter holes because it gives such control.
Regards.
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Post by motownmartin on Nov 28, 2007 22:06:37 GMT
Martin That's very clever. I presume you slide that black sledge thing towards the drill? Did you have it handy or did you have to raid some other machine for it? You've obviously solved your problem but I was going to suggest the use of that long forgotten tool - the hand drill. I've got a German hand drill which is a dead ringer for a Stanley 803 and it's a joy to use for small diameter holes because it gives such control. Regards. Hi evergreen, I managed to buy that black thingy from Jointech, it's a purpose made jig for the job of drilling hinges and yes it does slide back and forth. I'm afraid i'm not that skilled with hand tools  if there isn't a switch, it's no good for me ;D |
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Post by Scrit on Nov 28, 2007 22:23:32 GMT
bloody typical, in the past one has often placed the work on the bed of the lathe, at a specific height, and put the drill in the chuck. Sorry, Paul, I was thinking about a typical woodworking lathe which has no compound carraige  . As you say on an engineering lathe it is possible Martin That's an ingeneous jig. I'll have to nicjk that idea ;D Scrit |
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Post by nickw on Nov 28, 2007 22:30:27 GMT
It's the Incra Hinge Jig mkII isn't it?
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Post by motownmartin on Nov 28, 2007 22:42:44 GMT
It's the Incra Hinge Jig mkII isn't it? This is the latest Incra jig, a little too expensive for me  |
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Post by motownmartin on Nov 28, 2007 22:44:53 GMT
Martin That's an ingeneous jig. I'll have to nicjk that idea ;D Scrit A bit Heath Robinson but it works a treat ;D |
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if there isn't a switch, it's no good for me ;D
. As you say on an engineering lathe it is possible