|
|
Post by matt1245 on Dec 3, 2007 19:19:55 GMT
I have got a pile of european oak (offcuts from a local joinery firm) and am planning to make new kitchen doors from it.
I would like to treat it with wood preserver first, to make sure i kill any nasties off which might be living in it.
I have a 5 star, clear spirit based universal rot and woodworm treatment, would my oak still be suitable to use after using this, or will it only be good for fencing anf firewood?
Cheers.
Matt.
|
|
|
|
Post by nickw on Dec 3, 2007 19:25:37 GMT
To kill nasties without adding new ones, wrap in plastic bag, place in a freezer overnight (or maybe 2). Job done.
|
|
|
|
Post by dom on Dec 3, 2007 19:27:31 GMT
Bloody big freezer Nick.
|
|
|
|
Post by matt1245 on Dec 3, 2007 19:29:18 GMT
HAHA you beat me to it Dom.
But thanks nick, didn't know that, will probably be able to use it for some of my box making woods.
Matt.
|
|
|
|
Post by Scrit on Dec 3, 2007 19:32:05 GMT
Why do you want to treat it? If it is below 16% MC (normal for air-dried, kilned is often 10% or so) then it won't need treating for fungus. If it's kept in an environment free of infestation it is highly unlikely to be infected with boring beetles. In any case joinery firms generally don't want infested timber! So I'd say it probably isn't necessary. A point to bear in mind is that if there are borers already in there then coating with Cuprinol won't kill them, it will only stop any further infestation. In other words they'll continue to tunnel around until they are ready. It really only makes sense to treat timber if it will be stored in questionable conditions for a period. The downside of treating timber is that it then becomes potentially toxic to you, the wood machinist, should you subsequently saw and/or rout the pieces
Scrit
|
|
|
|
Post by matt1245 on Dec 3, 2007 19:41:59 GMT
I was planing some of it up yesterday and noticed 2 critters crawling over one piece. No idea what they were, but they were tiny, less than a mm big. So thought it's better safe than sorry.
I assume that it's kiln dried, and i know it was stored inside berfore i got it, and i've had it in a centrally heated house for about 6 weeks now.
Thats probably why they give it to me ;D
Do you think i'm just being over cautious?
Cheers.
Matt.
|
|
|
|
Post by colincott on Dec 3, 2007 19:45:44 GMT
Matt Is there any chance of a pic of one of the critters as this would help to tell if they are wood boring or not  |
|
|
|
Post by matt1245 on Dec 3, 2007 19:54:35 GMT
If i come across anymore i'll try and get a pic, but i doubt my digital camera will be able to zoom in close enough to get a good pic.
Matt.
|
|
|
|
Post by colincott on Dec 3, 2007 20:00:52 GMT
If i come across anymore i'll try and get a pic, but i doubt my digital camera will be able to zoom in close enough to get a good pic. Matt. Hi Matt Does your camera have a small flower simble on it, well if it does. Use that and you should get good close ups  |
|
|
|
Post by mel on Dec 3, 2007 20:03:56 GMT
creosote . if you can still get it ;D
on a more serious note
i replaced all my kitchen doors earlier this year with nice quality oak ones , which i couldnt have made for the same price as they cost
my problem would have been finishing them to the same standard as they come from a factory
|
|
|
|
Post by nickw on Dec 3, 2007 22:24:08 GMT
I was kinda assuming he'd rough out the parts first. How big are these doors gonna be? Or is he talking about doors into the kitchen? |
|
|
|
Post by matt1245 on Dec 4, 2007 0:11:48 GMT
Well the oak costs me nothing, and it's really nice stuff, so i can buy some 'essential' tools that i need to make the kitchen ;D, and it'll still be cheaper than buying a new kitchen. Not decided on a finish yet, any suggestions? Problem is that it's full of food, and swmbo gets kinda tetchy when i move stuff out of the kitchen so i can store paint etc in the cupboards, as i found out in the last house. I'll never understand women  Matt. |
|
|
|
Post by Keith on Dec 4, 2007 0:22:03 GMT
Worm love sap wood and will happily munch their way through it, but they are a lot less likely to damage the heartwood, especially if it is below 12% moisture content. So try to cut away the sapwood as first line of defence.
If I see a worm hole I use an aerosol worm treatment. As Scrit says unless you vacuum soak it in treatment, you don't kill them anyway.
|
|
|
|
Post by motownmartin on Dec 4, 2007 9:35:14 GMT
Not decided on a finish yet, any suggestions? Matt. Hi Matt, I finished mine with 5 coats of Danish Oil  Just got to do the worktop and re-tile  |
|
