|
|
Post by matthew on Mar 31, 2008 12:51:31 GMT
I'm reasonably conversant with most bits of kit around the workshop... but I've never even touched a lathe. However, my wife is getting bored with everything I make being square and is after me to turn some things - firstly some table legs for a new project, and thereafter perhaps some candlesticks, and maybe then some bowls.
Ie probably enough stuff to warrant getting a lathe and figuring out how to use it. There seem to be a couple of suitable Record machines for around £200-300 which is in my budget, I think. What else do I need? Eg what types of chisels do what, do I need a full set or are many of them esoteric? How about a chuck? Is a chuck essential or only for certain types of work? Any recommendations?
Sorry for the basic questions! Any advice much appreciated...
|
|
|
|
Post by tigerturnings on Apr 1, 2008 9:06:33 GMT
Hi, The Record machines seem to be generally thought of a decent smaller lathes. With my last lathe I was supplied a faceplate, drive centre and revolving centre between which you mount spindle work, a bar to knock those out of the Morse tapers, and a floor stand is part of my lathe too. If any of that is missing from any deals you consider, you'll probably need to add it at some point, substitute sturdy bench for floor stand. As for the turning tools, the usual advice seems to be not to buy a set of tools, you'll easily end up with one you don't use. For spindle work you could probably get by with just skew chisels and a parting tool after sufficient practice, but a roughing gouge and spindle gouge(s) will make it easier at first and still have a place when you start using the skew more often. For bowl work you need at least one bowl gouge, if I had to have only one size I'd probably go for the 3/8" but having 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" they all get some use. A scraper or shear scraper is a good idea too, for refining the shape more slowly. I used Ashley Iles flat scrapers and recently got a Sorby shear scraper (and hollower for endgrain in one tool) - think it's an RS200 but not sure. You'll need one with a rounded end if you want to use it inside the bowl (radius of end must be less than that of bowl) and can use a slow-curving rounded one or straight across on the outside. Chucks are by no means essential - if you have a faceplate you can screw on a scrap and then glue your bowl blank to that with normal wood glue, use a brown paper sheet in between to make it easier to separate once done. I used to do it that way until I bought a chuck - which is more convenient and quicker but doesn't actually enable me to do anything I couldn't before. Aside from that lot, calipers are good for spindle work, you'll want various abrasives up to about 400grit or more, a pair of dividers comes in handy too. If you do a lot of bowls, a little 2" or 3" sponge/Velcro sanding pad for the electric drill and matching abrasives saves much time. Ooh and last but not least, the late Keith Rowley's 'Woodturning: A Foundation Course' (new ed) is well worth a read .
HTH,
TT |
|
|
|
Post by mrgrimsdale on Apr 1, 2008 16:41:15 GMT
Good to hear TT recommending just a few tools. I've just got my lathe together again which I haven't touched for years. I was never very productive with it. With hindsight I think I had too many tools, not to mention 2 expensive chucks and bits. The result being that if it doesn't work first time you tend to try another tool, then another, then re-sharpen all of them  and so on, never really getting to grips with the basic kit. Same problem with other sorts of woodwork - lotsa hobbyists or beginners with half the catalogue of tools, 10 planes etc but not very good with any of them. Perhaps better to keep them most of them in a box or give them away (me, me! ;D) until they really need them - which may never happen. cheers Jacob |
|
|
|
Post by matthew on Apr 1, 2008 21:05:10 GMT
Thanks so much for the info! That was really helpful - the first thing is likely spindle work for some table legs, so it doesn't look like I'll have to get too much kit to start with. I'll also look out for books and/or videos too since I suspect that turning is a really quick way to destroy a lot of good wood, so I'll definitely need some guidance  Thanks again, Matthew |
|
|
|
Post by mrgrimsdale on Apr 7, 2008 20:24:16 GMT
Got my old lathe set up at last. Old joists for the stand. New start - never did much with it before, but have new interest in furniture - legs, knobs etc. Bought the Rowley book £7.35 inc post from Abebooks; often a much better deal than ebay. Now looking for spare time. I take Rowley's point about bevels on page 35 but what about flat bevels? Do turners sharpen by hand only? I don't like bench grinders - have spoiled too many tools! Would frequent but quick dips on an oil stone be practical?  cheers Jacob |
|
|
|
Post by happyhammer on Apr 8, 2008 2:58:12 GMT
Matthew,
The essentials are;
1. The Lathe (Budget or intended project driven)
2. Chisels (More about these in a moment)
3. A Grinder (To sharpen your chisels)
4. Wood
1. The Lathe
Most turners start out with a chinese clone or a low end record type lathe. You'll find the price increases as the capacities increase ie length and swing (Swing is basically the largest diameter a lathe can handle). Choose wisely and as mentioned above most will come with a dead centre (drives the timber from the head or motor end of the lathe) and a live centre (steady the other end (tail) of spindle work and its end spins with the timber.) It should also come with a spanner and knock out bar.
2. Chisels
My advice is to by a set of cheap chinese chisels with one of each of the basic chisels. Skew, Roughing Gouge, Bowl Gouge, Parting chisel, scraper and detail gouge. The chisels should also by HSS (High Speed Steel) as this will be more forgiving when sharpening them. Non HSS chisels when sharpened and not cooled correctly will be useless if over heated. The main reason for this recommendation is that the main reason many people start but do not pursue turning is because of issues caused by chisels that are not sharp. This is because they do not sharpen them often enough or sharpen incorrectly. The cheaper chisels give you an opportunity to practice sharpening without the fear of ruining an 80 quid chisel.
3. A Grinder
Get a grinder with two wheels so that you have a standard wheel as well as a white or pink wheel for finishing off. You should only need to use the standard wheel once and then the finishing wheel to refine the edge when needed. Always have some water handy to dip the chisels into to prevent over heating even with HSS chisels. If you buy the book above it will take you through sharpening and the description of the "clutch" method of adressing timber with a chisels bevel is very useful when starting out.
4. Wood
I'm not sure what timbers are available to you locally as I'm in Australia but I'm sure the guys here can recommend an easy and forgiving timber to practice your technique on.
Finally don't give up once you get into it you'll be hooked. As suggested above the next step will be to buy a chuck and a couple of jaw sets to make life easier and the time you get on the lathe more productive in terms of the time it takes to get things done. After that you can get into all sorts of other jigs and specialist tools. Hope this helps.
HH.
|
|
|
|
Post by tigerturnings on Apr 9, 2008 8:27:44 GMT
Wow, Jacob, an Arundel J4 (iirc) - my first lathe was exact same model... nice little machine! My bench was not anywhere near that nice though. Watch out for the angled front bed bar, I was forever grazing my knuckles on the underside of it when locking tailstock and banjo.
I always used to use a high speed grinder and didn't have much temper-related trouble, using Rowley's angled platform. I had a white, semi-friable wheel which helped reduce cutting temperatures.
These days I use a Tormek and jigs which does a great job but is definitely not necessary (brass knobs, I know...). I like to hone the parting tool on a fine diamond stone between uses, and sometimes hone my skews, but other than that I use tools off the grindstone.
Never really tried oilstone sharpening for turning tools. I wonder if with the extra mass and length of turning tools vs. e.g. bench chisels it might be tricky to control, but other than that can't see why not to give it a go.
Cheers,
TT
|
|
|
|
Post by jaco on Apr 9, 2008 16:30:45 GMT
Jacob, ???stupid question, where is the motor? |
|
|
|
Post by jaco on Apr 9, 2008 16:31:43 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by mrgrimsdale on Apr 9, 2008 16:51:06 GMT
Jacob, ???stupid question, where is the motor? In the usual place! You can just see it (greyish lump) to the right of the headstock, behind tool rest, in front of ladder. cheers Jacob |
|
and so on, never really getting to grips with the basic kit.
