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Post by jfc on Apr 10, 2008 15:19:48 GMT
I'm just trying to work out how to make a cornice for my kitchen worktops on the spindle moulder and i keep going round in circles on the timber sizes i need .
Has anyone made these before ?
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Post by wizer on Apr 10, 2008 15:44:44 GMT
no, but run me an extra 5ft in oak...  |
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Post by jasonb on Apr 10, 2008 16:12:34 GMT
Why are you putting cornice on the worktops, it usually goes on the top of the wall cabs  Jason |
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Post by jfc on Apr 10, 2008 16:28:15 GMT
I cant find my step ladders ;D
Can you tell its been doing my head in !
I can get the mould on a 60mm high x 70mm timber but have worked out i can also get it onto a 32mm x 90mm if i angle it . I just havnt worked out how to angle it .
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Post by jake on Apr 10, 2008 16:46:17 GMT
Tilt the spindle, or tip your machine over a bit.
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Post by andy on Apr 10, 2008 17:10:09 GMT
Surely you could have any hight timber
Just need to break the profile down in to sections and alter the cutter set and hight of the spindle ie top round over one set of cutters one pass, middle section chamfer another set of cutters and another pass bottom bead another set of cutters and another pass etc.
Or do a Norm and make up the cornice profile with different sections of wood
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Post by jfc on Apr 10, 2008 17:25:06 GMT
I think the problem is i am trying to use normal cutters to do angled work . Do the cornice profile cutters allow you to cut on the flat but take into account you are going to angle the finished product ?
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Apr 10, 2008 18:53:19 GMT
Tilt the spindle, or tip your machine over a bit. Yes that's what I'd do - a few bricks under one edge of the machine, but remember to take them out afterwards.  chers Jacob |
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on Apr 10, 2008 19:26:44 GMT
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Post by jfc on Apr 10, 2008 20:23:16 GMT
Thats using a cornice cutter , i think i would prefer to do the moulding and then cut the angles rather than run the timber past a large cutter on a point .
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on Apr 10, 2008 20:39:22 GMT
Thats using a cornice cutter , i think i would prefer to do the moulding and then cut the angles rather than run the timber past a large cutter on a point . Surely if you are cutting a cornice you use a cornice cutter, being a pro thats what I do and I cut all my own mouldings. Ok run the timber past the cornice cutter, then pass it through the table saw to the desired thickness, follow that by set the table saw to 45 deg and cut the angles. You are not running the timber past the cutter at a point with the method shown in the guide. |
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Post by jfc on Apr 10, 2008 20:51:11 GMT
That is what i was asking above . Do cornice cutters allow you to cut on a flat but the profile allows for the moulding to be tilted for full effect . I was trying to cut the cornice with the profiles i already have rather than having to spend £120 on a block to take a 100mm cutter and then £130 on knives and limiters . From the link you showed it looks to me that you are running the timber past the cutter with one point on the bed and two points on the fence |
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on Apr 10, 2008 21:22:02 GMT
I have made a alteration to the giude How much do you want and in what timber only I may be able to help you out. I have a cornice cuter to produce 95mm cornice,I think it is code 185 |
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Post by jfc on Apr 10, 2008 21:44:49 GMT
I only need about 9m out of redwood as i am going to paint it . I have a few local joiners i can call on if i need to but thanks for the offer anyway . Very kind of you  . I may well invest in the block and cutters anyway . I'd rather spend the money on tools than give it to the tax man ;D |
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on Apr 10, 2008 21:45:48 GMT
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Post by jfc on Apr 10, 2008 22:29:06 GMT
I thought you had your mouldings sorted ?
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Post by jasonb on Apr 11, 2008 6:28:06 GMT
As TVI says cut it into a flat piece of wood then run that through the tablesaw with the blade set at 45deg to knock the two back corners off, thats what I do with my cornice cutter.
Jason
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Apr 11, 2008 7:21:08 GMT
Or for any particular angle; you tilt the moulding (moulding on face of board) at the angle you want, in a mitre box, and then cut at 45 deg, making a 'compound angle'. If you are going to repeat this you can pin a bit of lath to the mitre box to repeat the tilt. No complicated working out required ;D BTW cornice moulding like TVI's drawings are dead easy to replicate with home made cutters at very little cost, but a power feed is more or less essential. You can just about do it with careful set up of shaw guards, springs, feathers etc but not easy. Are TVI and Alan Wakefield of Halesowen one and the same? Adobe acrobat kept pointing me at your website. Looks good. PS 'Slated Ledge and brace door': sounded interesting, never seen a slate hung door! But it turned out to be ledge brace and batten door. ;D cheers Jacob |
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on Apr 11, 2008 9:57:37 GMT
BTW cornice moulding like TVI's drawings are dead easy to replicate with home made cutters at very little cost, but a power feed is more or less essential. You can just about do it with careful set up of shaw guards, springs, feathers etc but not easy. Are TVI and Alan Wakefield of Halesowen one and the same? Adobe acrobat kept pointing me at your website. Looks good. PS 'Slated Ledge and brace door': sounded interesting, never seen a slate hung door! But it turned out to be ledge brace and batten door. ;D cheers Jacob Power feed is not essential as long as you don’t use home made cutters. Do we have Sherlock homes side kick present? You could just check the mini glossary which is on page 4 but to save you the trouble I have put a copy below. Mini Glossary Ledged Door;- One formed by nailing boards on cross pieces or ledges. Brace;- A member introduced into a rectangle framing to triangulate it, and thus render it immovable. Slats;- Sets of boards with gaps between, thus allowing ventilation. Planted stop;- A strip of timber supplied loose to be fixed on site to suite the particular door thickness. Also known as - Slam Strip, Loose Stop. SW;- Soft Wood Bearer;- A member designed to distribute loads onto another or take the load of something. Batten;- Provides a surface to fix too i.e. T&G cladding. One final point these types of doors are used in areas that need to be enclosed but also need to have ventilation. An example of which could be a bin store. |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Apr 11, 2008 10:11:28 GMT
Hi Alan
It's the spelling wot threw me - there's 2 ts in 'slatted'. Not that I'm fussy abt spelling etc but sometimes it can be misunderstood ;D
Like the site esp the neat drawings - would that be with"Illustrator"?
cheers
Jacob
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on Apr 11, 2008 13:03:48 GMT
Hi Alan It's the spelling wot threw me - there's 2 ts in 'slatted'. Not that I'm fussy abt spelling etc but sometimes it can be misunderstood ;D Like the site esp the neat drawings - would that be with"Illustrator"? cheers Jacob It is very evident from what I have been reading on various threads on this forum over the last few months that you come across as a very self-important guy. If it’s a spelling or grammar mistake then you say so don’t wrap it up as if it’s a load of rubbish or its something that isn’t. Your comments come across that you are just taking the Michael. Thank you for your kind comments on the site. The idea about the site is to offer first class practical joinery and cabinetry guides, complete with mini glossary. Any one can submit a guide for consideration but it must be there own work not a cut and past job, and must not be a personal project of there’s. If the person who is submitting the guide as not got the way with all regarding the drawings then I will produce them using AutoCAD 2008. Full credit will be given to the author of the guide weather it be an individual or a forum see the internal partition guide as an example. The drawings must be produced on AutoCAD so all the guides are uniform All the guides are designed to be adaptable to your individual requirements & are not tailored to any particular individual or circumstance. For a forum or individual to get a mention on the forum page or the links page they must submit a guide. Each guide submitted will be vetted by a small panel of professionals before publication this to validate the facts contained in the guide are true. All the guides are designed to be adaptable to your individual requirements & are not tailored to any particular individual or circumstance. For a forum or individual to get a mention on the forum page or the links page they must submit a guide. Each guide submitted will be vetted by a small panel of professionals before publication this to validate the facts contained in the guide are true. |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Apr 11, 2008 14:37:08 GMT
Doesn't do to be too sensitive on this forum. There's a lot of general p**s taking and banter which is done for a laugh, but which can easily be misunderstood. Come to think Mrs G says I'm an opinionated bighead, for some reason. Oh well.
Autocad not for me - I still use a pencil, though I've had a go with Illustrator. Too many learning curves, too little time!
cheers
Jacob
PS had a go at the partition guide but it was a slow download so stopped. I'm not keen on pdfs unless I really want to print something out. Have you thought of doing it in plain html plus jpgs or gifs? Less tidy looking but much more accessible.
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on Apr 11, 2008 14:56:32 GMT
Doesn't do to be too sensitive on this forum. There's a lot of general p**s taking and banter which is done for a laugh, but which can easily be misunderstood. Come to think Mrs G says I'm an opinionated bighead, for some reason. Oh well. Autocad not for me - I still use a pencil, though I've had a go with Illustrator. Too many learning curves, too little time! cheers Jacob PS had a go at the partition guide but it was a slow download so stopped. I'm not keen on pdfs unless I really want to print something out. Have you thought of doing it in plain html plus jpgs or gifs? Less tidy looking but much more accessible. I am not sensitive in fact very thick skinned sort of guy, but I gust can’t stand self-opinionated bighead guys like your good self that just love to go out of there way to criticise other peoples ideas that don’t fit within there own. Once again you have forced this thread off track so enough of this hand bags at dawn. I will just after to try and remember that you are self-opinionated bighead who just loves to get peoples backs up and throwing the brown stuff at the fan. No the guides will not be HTML or CSS just in PDF. |
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Post by jfc on Apr 11, 2008 16:31:53 GMT
;D
Has anyone ever put dentil work on kitchen cornice ? I'm sure i have seen it on some of the smallbone stuff .
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Post by jasonb on Apr 11, 2008 16:39:23 GMT
Thinks its more of a Christians thing than Smallbone, have a look at the slideshow, I'm sure there is something not too OTT for you there www.clive.com/Jason |
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