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Post by ''The village idiot'' on May 5, 2008 16:55:25 GMT
Wooden washbasin I have been asked by a client if could design and construct him a vanity unit with a wooden bowl with the bowl rectangle shape. I was thinking of constructing it similar to that shown in the drawing / photo and using polyurethane wood glue. Any one else had such a project or any comments or suggestions on construction etc. ![]() www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk/guide/Timber vanity bowl.jpg[/img] |
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Post by sainty on May 5, 2008 17:26:56 GMT
Love the idea of it but one way or another you are going to get stuffed with a "cross grain situation" on the bottom.
Might it be worth investigating some marine products as they must be able to stand water, not sure about detergents though?
rgds
Sainty
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Post by jasonb on May 5, 2008 17:51:07 GMT
I'd go for an epoxy adhesive, something in the West Systems range would do.
And just to be on the safe side if the underside does not show give it a coat of resin with some surface tissue laid in just to make it totally watertight. What wood are you using? if its teak or iroko don't forget to clean the oil off the gluing surface with acetone.
Don't really see why you have to make it from so many strips, it makes it look like an off the shelf worktop rather than a better quality full lengh, wide strip one. You could just do four sides joined with dovetails like a draw.
Jason
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on May 5, 2008 18:28:13 GMT
The reason for using strips of 30 x 70 or 30 x 90 is for stability.
The continuous dovetail down the corners is for water tightness.
Timber species not sure.
The drawing is only diagrammatic.
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Post by engineerone on May 5, 2008 20:00:55 GMT
why not build it like an american indian canoe, as it were and hollow it out with a mattock. that way although you waste a bunch of wood, you have no potential leak spots. otherwise why not buy one from one of the indonesian or japanese importers of this kind of wooden product. paul  |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on May 6, 2008 19:15:06 GMT
Wooden troughs, tanks, not to mention barrels, are fairly common in trad joinery. And there are fashionable hot-tubs with new ways of doing it. I'd google "hot-tub" for starters.
A trough would have ends housed into sides, and bottoms housed into ends & sides, but with a good length of timber left beyond the housing, unlike tvi's dovetail which'd be very prone to failure IMHO.
Then it'd be held together either by metal straps or through bolts (outside but through the projecting sides IYSWIM), or by through wedged tusk tenons etc. Once made up tight in the dry it'd be even tighter when wet. No glue involved. The inside would be neat and tidy, with all the structure and fixings outside. Or just go straight for the half barrel.
cheers
Jacob
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Post by engineerone on May 6, 2008 19:44:29 GMT
actually jacob is of course right, you just need to make a coopered structure. paul |
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on May 6, 2008 21:14:42 GMT
Wooden washbasin design and construct him a vanity unit with a wooden bowl with the bowl rectangle shape. How much water is held in a wash hand basin ? It’s a vanity wash basin so I think we would only be talking of 10 Lt tops ? So would metals straps and through bolts be necessary ? |
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tommo
New Member
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Post by tommo on May 6, 2008 22:14:00 GMT
Wooden washbasin design and construct him a vanity unit with a wooden bowl with the bowl rectangle shape. How much water is held in a wash hand basin ? It’s a vanity wash basin so I think we would only be talking of 10 Lt tops ? So would metals straps and through bolts be necessary ? If they are the means of creating a watertight structure then yes! Point being that you are creating a vessel not a cabinet so traditional expertise suggests the skills of a Cooper for containing liquids perhaps a Shipwright may use those skills in reverse. Or carving from a solid piece in a variant of the more common turned bowl. |
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mono
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Post by mono on May 6, 2008 22:19:28 GMT
I cobbled together a narrow rectangular basin in marine ply for a utility room and used west epoxy resin. It's still going strong i believe (in a former residence). The bottom 'corners' were filletted(?) with wests to help with cleaning. i put the waste to one side and a bit of fall on the bottom. Wests sell a small sample kit to try your luck and have a comprehensive project and tips section on their website I seem to recall.
Look nice nice in teak I reckon!
John
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on May 7, 2008 9:03:53 GMT
Small wash hand basin in a vanity unit approximately size 400x 400 x 200. What size of metal brackets and through bolts do you think I will need to make this small wash hand basin watertight ? Taking into account that the whole thing will be glued together using an epoxy resin as recommended by mono. I concur Mono it would look just the part in teak, and will take a stroll to my local boat builders to check out this west epoxy resin you recommend. |
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tommo
New Member
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Post by tommo on May 7, 2008 20:55:52 GMT
Small wash hand basin in a vanity unit approximately size 400x 400 x 200. What size of metal brackets and through bolts do you think I will need to make this small wash hand basin watertight ? Taking into account that the whole thing will be glued together using an epoxy resin as recommended by mono. I concur Mono it would look just the part in teak, and will take a stroll to my local boat builders to check out this west epoxy resin you recommend. Ah of course if its only small it only needs to be say half as watertight wondered why small bore pipe is so popular ;D Do you have some sort of disclaimer for this sort of item ? I suspect that you aren't going to encase it in fiberglass resin so it could be subjected to uses and abuses that you wouldn't necessarily expect . Will it be fitted with a bespoke wooden plug? Regards Tom |
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on May 10, 2008 7:53:55 GMT
Just a quick note to thank to all those members who have taken time and trouble in offering advice on this mater, it is most appreciated.
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