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Post by sainty on May 19, 2008 21:15:28 GMT
Hi I want to make a front door in oak. Its going to be basically framed/ledged and brace in design. Very similar to this bot not a stable door. I want to make it two panels, so the mid rail is visible from the front and each panel is made up from beaded t/g. I think this gives me a problem ragards to how to fit the beaded t/g in the top panel so that the water doesnt run in to the mid rail. Do you need to put a slope on the top of the mid rail? I would also like to put in a small bullseye window in the top panel but I'm not sure how it will work, does the glass sit in the panel and then trimmed out on both sides with glazing beads or is it better to form a frame behind the panel? rgds Sainty |
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on May 19, 2008 22:15:31 GMT
I don’t if this would be possible I am not a joiner. Would it be possible to have a tongue on the mid rail and a groove on the ends of the infill boards? I presume this will depend on the thickness of the infill boards? Can the T&G be set in flexible mastic? Can the 2 or deg chamfer not only be on the mid rail but also on the styles to make a feature of it? Sorry for answering your question with more questions but as I say I am not a joiner and not sure if it can be carried out this way. |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on May 20, 2008 10:04:25 GMT
Hi I want to make a front door in oak. Its going to be basically framed/ledged and brace in design. Very similar to this bot not a stable door. I want to make it two panels, so the mid rail is visible from the front and each panel is made up from beaded t/g. I think this gives me a problem ragards to how to fit the beaded t/g in the top panel so that the water doesnt run in to the mid rail. Do you need to put a slope on the top of the mid rail? I would also like to put in a small bullseye window in the top panel but I'm not sure how it will work, does the glass sit in the panel and then trimmed out on both sides with glazing beads or is it better to form a frame behind the panel? rgds Sainty Not a practical door construction. I'd go back to the drawing board. Or just copy something traditional. Copying something from a catalogue is not a good idea: crap to start with, won't get any better! cheers Jacob |
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Post by sainty on May 20, 2008 20:24:52 GMT
Not a practical door construction. I'd go back to the drawing board. Or just copy something traditional. Copying something from a catalogue is not a good idea: crap to start with, won't get any better! cheers Jacob That's the spirit Jacob!! Nice to see we're pushing the barriers here  ;D Ok, what if the t/g beading was made into a panel, then fitted into a standard frame construction? rgds Sainty |
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Post by sainty on May 20, 2008 20:30:09 GMT
I don’t if this would be possible I am not a joiner. Would it be possible to have a tongue on the mid rail and a groove on the ends of the infill boards? I presume this will depend on the thickness of the infill boards? Can the T&G be set in flexible mastic? Can the 2 or deg chamfer not only be on the mid rail but also on the styles to make a feature of it? Sorry for answering your question with more questions but as I say I am not a joiner and not sure if it can be carried out this way. Sorry VI, I missed the link in your post. I was thinking of having the rebate in the rails. I would also offset the panel so that it was just shy of the front of the door. I like the idea of the chamfer on the rail, this would give a nice shadow line for the panel. rgds Sainty |
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Post by jfc on May 20, 2008 20:34:04 GMT
This is a problem with every door and window . Windows use putty or they used to until the regs changed , now its a chamfer to look like putty and beaded from the inside . I would rebate the outside of the door rather than fit the tvg&bead into a groove / rebate as this gives the construction more chance of not letting in water .
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on May 20, 2008 21:25:36 GMT
[quote author=sainty board=woodwork thread=1424 Sorry VI, I missed the link in your post. I was thinking of having the rebate in the rails. I would also offset the panel so that it was just shy of the front of the door. I like the idea of the chamfer on the rail, this would give a nice shadow line for the panel. rgds Sainty[/quote] No apologies need. Have added a beaded bolection moulding to the inside of the door. Thought it may help to prevent the ingress of water. |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on May 20, 2008 21:52:01 GMT
Not a practical door construction. I'd go back to the drawing board. Or just copy something traditional. Copying something from a catalogue is not a good idea: crap to start with, won't get any better! cheers Jacob That's the spirit Jacob!! Nice to see we're pushing the barriers here ;D Ok, what if the t/g beading was made into a panel, then fitted into a standard frame construction? rgds Sainty What barriers? You could make them into a panel - then it'd be sorta false T&G, and you'd have to stop water draining down the quirks somehow - so it'd be even falser T&G. So you are giving yorself a set of little problems for no apparent reason. What's wrong with a trad construction - the T&G going all the way to the bottom so it drains properly? Traditional joinery is basically a huge library of solutions to all the problems you are likely to encounter when doing woodwork. If you want a door like the catalogue one it could make more sense to just buy one. Less than £200 inc materials - you can't compete!! cheers Jacob |
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Post by jfc on May 20, 2008 21:55:45 GMT
The problem is not with water comming into the property its to do with water sitting on the timber and letting rot set in .
I would go for tvg and forget the bead ..... with a chafer on the top of the mid rail and leave the bottom of the mid rail square .
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Post by sainty on May 20, 2008 22:05:01 GMT
As far as I can see there is no difference structurally using a tgv or tg beaded panel to using a raised panel. In the interests of over engineering, how about this...  rgds Sainty |
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Post by jfc on May 20, 2008 22:46:10 GMT
You know what , i knew someone was going to add a drip groove ! I just didnt think it would be you ;D
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Post by dexteria on May 20, 2008 23:02:38 GMT
T&G sides and top. Angled rebate on bottom or mid rail, nailed. Better still as Jacob says T&G all the way to the bottom. Cheers Mark  |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on May 21, 2008 7:20:37 GMT
Woss that then: Sketchup Mark 7.1 I presume? Very effective, almost like the real thing!
cheers
Jacob
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Post by ''The village idiot'' on May 21, 2008 7:37:14 GMT
As far as I can see there is no difference structurally using a tgv or tg beaded panel to using a raised panel. In the interests of over engineering, how about this... rgds Sainty Can the tongue be on the rails and stiles and if it could would it make it more water proof ? Would a chamfer act as a drip ? ![]() www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk/images/Front door.jpg[/img] |
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Post by dexteria on May 22, 2008 21:43:34 GMT
Woss that then: Sketchup Mark 7.1 I presume? Very effective, almost like the real thing!
cheers
Jacob Pendown - Mark 1 beta - RC 1 :-) |
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Post by sainty on May 22, 2008 21:50:37 GMT
Cheers guys,
I think I'll go with the panel, traditional construction method. I think its the best solution.
rgds
Sainty
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Post by thallow on May 23, 2008 7:02:36 GMT
Cheers guys, I think I'll go with the panel, traditional construction method. I think its the best solution. rgds Sainty Dont forget the WIP pics! ;D |
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