sawn timber - 4x2's 8x2's

[tusses]

is the sawn timber (pine)you get from a timber yard ok to make a couple of garage doors from ?

planed up treated and painted of coarse !

or will it banana after a while ?

I was all set - got my cutting list ready to go with on monday - but then I have this niggling doubt !

I've used it for loads of stuff in the past - but this is for a mate and I want it to last !

I will be using through M&T's on the styles n rails.

[argus]

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This is the same reply I posted in the "other place". ;D ;D ;D

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It needs to be exterior quality timber and dried properly. Avoid anything that comes wrapped in plastic

Even then, I would recommend that you dimension it all slightly oversized then stack it in stick outside, undercover, for a few weeks.

It will either turn into banana-shaped firewood or move just a tiny amount. When you are satisfied that it's stable enough, reduce it to the final dimensions and make your doors.

Tongue and Groove is the order of the day, and don't forget to allow room for the components to move with the seasons or it will surely start to split.


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[tusses]

again - thanks

I'll do some wip's when I get started !

[jasonb]

If its carcasing grade "whitewood" then I would give it a miss.

Better to go to a decent timberyard and buy "unsorted Redwood", this will be far better quality and last longer.

Jason

[jfc]

I agree with all the above . I use PAR redwood for most of my windows and some doors . I also wouldnt go for 8 X 2 , i would join two 4 X 2's to reduce cupping .

[tusses]

would not the through tenons minimize cupping /twisting? then I just have to worry about bowing/banana'ing

I will also pick the wood by looking at the end grain. A lot of it will come as the center slice - with the heartwood in the middle and straight grain each side. I was going to go for that.

the design will be top 3 1/2 - mid 7 and bottom 7 rails and 3 1/2 styles with through M&T's

the bottom section will be braced diagonaly with M&T joinery and ply paneled into a slot (for security) with ship lap clading on the out side.
the top will be double glazed with laminated glass for security.

rebate overlap in the center.

I was wondering about internally glazing the windows for security - but then would I have to add weep holes ?

[''The village idiot'']

The last page of the guide is about softwood timber grades

[jfc]

Quater sawn would be my choice . I.E the grain running vertical on the 2" not arched across the 4" . Joining the timber is to minimise cupping as you alternate the grain . I cut the tenons on the bandsaw before joining them as my bandsaw cant take 8" .