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Post by modernist on Dec 28, 2007 15:16:00 GMT
I am making several cabinets out of 18mm cherry faced MDF. I want a lock mitre cutter suitable for use on MDF which presumably means tungsten. Machine is 4 HP Hammer (30mm spindle) Any recommendations? I also have an Axminster Universal block but couldn't seen any suitable cutters. In any case is there any point with MDF?
Brian
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Post by andy on Dec 28, 2007 16:15:16 GMT
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Post by dom on Dec 28, 2007 16:58:57 GMT
Hi Brian.
I've not tried a lock mitre on veneered MDF but feel the veneer may be a little delicate for this operation.
Dom
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Post by guest on Dec 28, 2007 18:01:51 GMT
I am making several cabinets out of 18mm cherry faced MDF. I want a lock mitre cutter suitable for use on MDF which presumably means tungsten. Machine is 4 HP Hammer (30mm spindle) Any recommendations? I also have an Axminster Universal block but couldn't seen any suitable cutters. In any case is there any point with MDF? Brian As you have a Hammer machine, there's one in the Hammer Xmas flyer page 7. ;D |
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Post by modernist on Dec 28, 2007 19:08:27 GMT
thanks guys,
Yes the Wealden cutter seems OK. The same item is indeed in the Hammer/Felder Christmas offer mag at £89.90 + VAT but it does indicate use on solid wood. Can there be any difference I wonder? I doubt it. I did not see the Felder brochure until after I sent my post!.
Re delicate edges and setting up difficulties Dom. Why are the edges more of a problem than standard mitres, biscuited splined or whatever?
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Post by engineerone on Dec 28, 2007 19:25:45 GMT
modernist you have to consider the shape of the cutter and then try and impose that on the wood. then you will see quite a lot of areas where with mdf you are going to get great weakness which will be telegraphed through to the veneer, which i would think might well break in various places, or lift. the mitre lock was really devised for drawers paul  |
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Post by modernist on Dec 28, 2007 19:35:16 GMT
OK thanks for that. I think I'll stick to biscuits and mitres.
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Post by jfc on Dec 28, 2007 21:16:36 GMT
From using this on MDF i would say its a far better way to join it but thats for painted units not finished work . It makes it very easy to line up , its quick and no nasty MDF edges . For veneered ..... on small work you may get away with it but for larger work every gap grins at you no matter how small , even a pin prick will show  |
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Post by modernist on Dec 28, 2007 22:07:29 GMT
Sorry, I'm not sure which method you are recommending? or not
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Post by engineerone on Dec 28, 2007 23:06:46 GMT
jasons saying don't use the mitre lock on veneer paul |
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Post by modernist on Dec 28, 2007 23:17:43 GMT
Thanks, I'm thinking I might use matching corner posts and biscuits to elimenate the mitres altogether.
I have 4 bathroom vessel type basin cabinets to make with lots of long edges to join.
Brian
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Post by engineerone on Dec 29, 2007 0:10:49 GMT
why not use solid corners and make floating panels for the sides??? even flush ones would look pretty good.  paul |
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Post by dom on Dec 29, 2007 6:20:02 GMT
That's what he meant Paul .
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Post by modernist on Dec 29, 2007 10:00:21 GMT
I can't see any way of making mitred corners "non fragile" with the veneered MDF but much commercial work seems to be done this way.
It seems so amateurish using edging tape I was trying to avoid it. I want flush panels to match existing fittings so presumably I can rebate the edge into a solid, slotted stile without problems?
As you will gather this is my first venture into veneered MDF. I think I'll go back to the solid as soon as possible ;D
While I am on I am also concerned that normal cleaning operations may degrade the MDF at floor level. I raised the last unit on a small tiled plinth but this breaks the "modernist" line down to the floor. If I seal the bottom edge with PU varnish will this be OK along with the normal finish on the faces?
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Post by engineerone on Dec 29, 2007 11:54:10 GMT
when god were a lad, all veneered edges were protected to some extent, c*ck beading and other things were the corner protectors. sorry dom, i did not read properly. personally i would put some tape on the bottom edges and then seal properly with pva and varnish. unless you put in some kind of kick board, ie an inset, you will always have a problem with household cleaning to the edge, and the hoover smacking the wood. the idea then must be to make a feature of the corners by protecting them, and that solves the veneer lift. paul |
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