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Post by modernist on Jul 21, 2008 18:43:35 GMT
I'm fitting out a utility room with washer/sink etc.
I would like a timber worktop. The floor is dark grey ceramic.
Any suggestions. I was intending to rout some grooves for drainage in to the belfast sink.
Brian
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Post by cnc paul on Jul 21, 2008 18:50:58 GMT
Brian,
My choice would be Maple finished with teak oil.
Paul
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Post by engineerone on Jul 21, 2008 19:01:50 GMT
my workbench is based on an old ikea wooden kitchen top, it is their beech staves glued together, in a kitchen, i think you need to have that kind of construction to reduce movement. and of course coat it properly starting with an acrylic. also have a seperate board for cutting. thing about routing the slots round the belfast sink is to make them tapered toward the sink, so the deepest part is sink side. however have to say personally i hate belfast sinks ;D paul  |
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Post by paulchapman on Jul 21, 2008 22:15:07 GMT
I don't like them either and find it hard to understand why they are so fashionable. The way that most of them are fitted seems to guarantee that there are plenty of places for gunge and stuff to collect between the sink and the worktop. I much prefer stainless steel inset sinks, which also provide a far wider range of styles and shapes. Still, each to their own...... Cheers Paul |
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Post by modernist on Jul 21, 2008 22:19:32 GMT
Yeah - but where do I wash the dog and the oven shelves - not at the same time  Brian |
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Post by engineerone on Jul 21, 2008 22:47:12 GMT
old tin bath in front of the fire  ;D the basic problem with the belfast, or butlers sink, is as paul says the nooks and crannies seem to attract dirt and crap. still each to their own. paul |
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Post by modernist on Jul 22, 2008 19:44:17 GMT
Thoughts have moved on. to set off the dark grey floor tiles and white walls I am thinking of Iroko top finished in Danish oil on brushed stainless legs. I know it's not woodwork but it's trendy Brian Ps any thoughts on the Danish oil for a utility room? washing etc. |
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Post by modernist on Jul 22, 2008 19:49:04 GMT
PS spoke to Fitchett and Woolacott today and 1 1/2" Iroko is £1080/m3 as opposed to £1380 for maple. How does that compare to elsewhere? I've been paying £1350 for American Cherry for a while.
I thought I would rip it into random widths as they fall about 50-75mm, switch them alternately and then glue up with Cascamite with a few biscuits to keep it all flush. I might add a couple of battens to keep it flat or maybe breadboard ends.
Brian
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Post by paulchapman on Jul 22, 2008 20:38:02 GMT
The trouble with breadboard ends is that the ends of them are seldom flush with the sides of the worktop because of expansion and contraction. Would continuous plywood loose tongues be better than biscuits in helping to keep it all flat - I think that's what I'd be inclined to use. Cheers Paul |
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Post by modernist on Jul 22, 2008 20:45:55 GMT
The trouble with breadboard ends is that the ends of them are seldom flush with the sides of the worktop because of expansion and contraction. Would continuous plywood loose tongues be better than biscuits in helping to keep it all flat - I think that's what I'd be inclined to use. Cheers Paul I think you're right I could always cut the grooves with the 42 if I was in ethnic mood ;D ;D Brian |
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Post by paulchapman on Jul 22, 2008 20:49:25 GMT
Go on, use the router - I won't tell ;D ;D
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Post by engineerone on Jul 22, 2008 20:50:44 GMT
whatever you do with bread board ends, you are bound to have a problem cause the expansion contraction is different in both sides. as for the boarding, why not buy offies, since you are going to cut them anyway, it will reduce wastage, and almost certainly be cheaper too paul |
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Post by modernist on Jul 22, 2008 21:17:06 GMT
whatever you do with bread board ends, you are bound to have a problem cause the expansion contraction is different in both sides. as for the boarding, why not buy offies, since you are going to cut them anyway, it will reduce wastage, and almost certainly be cheaper too paul I notice that some of the worktop companies use BB ends for use against Aga's and the like to hide end grain splitting in the heat. they must get an overhang as you say. I'll ask about the offies B |
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Post by engineerone on Jul 22, 2008 22:16:55 GMT
i think the companies offer breadboard ends since they look tidier and give the impression of being sophisticated even if long term they are not the solution paul |
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;D