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Post by gazza on Dec 30, 2007 14:13:43 GMT
I have 48 doors of differing (oddball) sizes to make for a friend/client. The first two are full size doors 78 x 30 to match existing doors that the salvage yard made for him ten years ago (no longer in business) They are made from tongue and groove boards with a bead profiled at one edge of each board. just flat panel. they have been glued and pinned on to both sides of a (what seems like) 9mm legded and braced internal frame, which is morticed into two 40mm x 40mm stiles (to cover the edges) Does this make sense  its hard to explain ;D My proposed method of construction for the new ones is as follows, 9mm mdf sandwiched between the tongue and groove boards, leaving a 20mm overhang of the mdf along each side with a 40mm solid lipping to cover. Does this make sense  The tongue and groove boards in have machined are 16mm thick, so that would be 16mm board glued to 9mm mdf(substrate if you like) both sides. any advise would be warmly welcomed ;D Cheers, Gazza. PS, these two are the easy ones more later. |
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Post by jfc on Dec 30, 2007 14:21:21 GMT
Is there a reason why you are not making them as proper doors with mortice and tenons |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Dec 30, 2007 14:30:24 GMT
I have 48 doors of differing (oddball) sizes to make for a friend/client. The first two are full size doors 78 x 30 to match existing doors that the salvage yard made for him ten years ago (no longer in business) They are made from tongue and groove boards with a bead profiled at one edge of each board. just flat panel. they have been glued and pinned on to both sides of a (what seems like) 9mm legded and braced internal frame, which is morticed into two 40mm x 40mm stiles (to cover the edges) Does this make sense its hard to explain ;D Yes makes sense - commonly known as "framed, ledged and braced" door Er, hmm, no makes no sense at all ;D . Sounds like a difficult and pointless way of making a door.And it'd weigh a ton. What's wrong with copying the traditional door examples you have in front of you? Perfectly sensible and practical way of making a door. If you do it carefully you can make the stiles match the boards so it looks like all board from the outside, but is a better quality door than ledged and battened alone. You wouldn't glue the boards - just clenched through nails is all you need. And you'd need to groove the stiles to hold the tongue of one board, and a planted in loose tongue for the other side cheers Jacob |
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Post by gazza on Dec 30, 2007 14:32:58 GMT
They arent proper doors  as in they have no top or bottom rails, just flat panel tongue and groove boards like a garden gate  As i said its hard to explain, i will see if i can take a picture of the existing doors. the tongue and groove is on both sides of the doors. Cheers, Gazza. |
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Post by gazza on Dec 30, 2007 14:50:14 GMT
Thanks Jacob, I just thought that an internal 9mm legded and braced frame was a bit flimsy, and a whole mdf substrate would be sturdier. guess the mdf is out the window then  Cheers, Gazza. |
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Post by gazza on Dec 30, 2007 18:14:18 GMT
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Post by jfc on Dec 30, 2007 19:09:31 GMT
It's sort of a funny frame ledged and braced door/gate . The basic door construction is there and i would stick with that . If you have 48 of them to do then i would invest in a mortice machine and a bandsaw , thats if you dont already have them ?
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Post by gazza on Dec 30, 2007 19:40:27 GMT
Sorry posted those photos without an explanation, had to pop out.
the tongue and groove boards are 7 1/2" wide, 4 per door.
The frame rail through the middle that you can see from the third photo is 9mm thick (3/8" in old money).
the mortices in and through the stiles are the total thickness of the rails
the stiles on this particular door have been planed down to 20mm to suit the door frame.
So in effect there is only a 20mm mortice and tennon to hold everything together (as well as the boards being attached to the frame). This was my concern.
The rest of the doors are frame and panel type cupboard doors Jason. ;D
Cheers,
Gazza.
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Post by dirtydeeds on Dec 30, 2007 20:47:04 GMT
ive never seen doors made like that before
your description of the remaining 48 doors isnt helping, youve suddenly start calling them cupboard doors, if they are cupboard doors no wonder they are all different sizes
if however you mean internal doors that is rather unusual for them to ALL to be different sizes
did you measure the door frames or the doors to come to the conclusion that they were all different sizes
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Post by gazza on Dec 31, 2007 0:36:37 GMT
ive never seen doors made like that before Either have i DD, hence the post ;D As for the remaining doors, if you read my op you will see that i said i have 48 doors of differing (oddball sizes) i.e not all the same the oddball sizes comes into effect as i cant buy already made up doors easily. 900mm x500mm, 800mm x 400mm, 550mm x 550mm are a few of the sizes. frame and panel( or rail and stile) construction, shaker style, so to speak. with the exception of the some of the standard kitchen units, most of the doors are for already existing openings, cubby holes/eaves storage space ect ect. to be made from reclaimed pitch pine and douglas fir, which doesnt help either. Cheers, Gazza. |
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Post by dirtydeeds on Dec 31, 2007 6:50:40 GMT
indian call centre reply << i am now very understanding >> make sure you allow for downtime and the cost of new planer blades in the price pitch pine and douglas fir was mainly used for paint quality work so expect plenty of nails and the odd screw |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Dec 31, 2007 11:48:15 GMT
See what you mean - I misread your first description.
What about beefing up the inner rails to 20mm and reducing the boards to 11mm? Would be stronger, lighter and stiffer. Have perhaps 4 rails, width about 150, praps include diagonal braces between them? Beef up the nominal "stiles" to give more mortice depth?
I'd nail only, except for glued M&Ts
cheers
Jacob
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Post by cnc paul on Dec 31, 2007 14:04:21 GMT
I would agree with Jacobs method.
Paul
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Post by modernist on Dec 31, 2007 16:32:34 GMT
I agree with Jacobs suggestion but I'm amazed at the original which is nothing if not unique. Talk about reinventing the wheel! I'm surprised it hasn't blown itself apart. Looking at the top view its had a good try. Given that its not Gimson or Barnsley why not stick some laminate flooring to an edge frame with a foam core. It would be better, more stable, lighter and warmer than the original, use less timber and be quicker to make. I'm off to wash my mouth out with shellac after that suggestion ;D ;D |
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Post by gazza on Jan 9, 2008 22:46:00 GMT
See what you mean - I misread your first description. What about beefing up the inner rails to 20mm and reducing the boards to 11mm? Would be stronger, lighter and stiffer. Have perhaps 4 rails, width about 150, praps include diagonal braces between them? Beef up the nominal "stiles" to give more mortice depth? I'd nail only, except for glued M&Ts cheers Jacob thanks for your advise Jacob, I will be starting these two doors within the next few days and intend on taking a few pic of the progress, which i will post if anyone is interested. I have decided to reduce the t&g boards to 15mm , which leaves a bit on the back of the groove, and then beef up the internals to 14mm which gives me a total of 44mm thickness. Watch this space  Cheers, Gazza. |
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Post by mailee on Jan 10, 2008 1:14:14 GMT
I don't know if the original doors have it behind the boards but I would put a couple of diagonals in there to give it more rigidity. Basically just build a gate and add the panels on the outside. |
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its hard to explain ;D
as in they have no top or bottom rails, just flat panel tongue and groove boards like a garden gate 
