panelled door

[mailee]

Just started another project today, a panelled interior door. It is to replace a dilapidated one and will be half glazed. I managed to get all the mortices cut first.



I then marked out all the tennons using the table saw.



I cut the tennons with the table saw too. Jig works well. (oh and the guards have been removed for photographic clarity ;D)



I finally got all the tennons cut.


Will keep you posted on how it goes.

[tusses]

out of interest , how much head hight do you have for tenoning like that ?

I thought about it when making my garage doors, but haven't made a jig yet (well not for big stuff ! )

and - how come you didn't use the router this time ? ... I used a router and didn't like it .

[mailee]

I have about four foot above my head from the table top so enough for these rails luckily. If the rails had have been much longer I wouldn't have been able to use this method as it wold have been too big to handle on this jig. I deceided to use this jig as the tennons will be through tennons and 3 3/4" long far too long for the length of the router cutter for my vertical jig. I could have used the large router tennon jig but I felt this would be much quicker in this case for such large tennons.

[mrgrimsdale]

Cooee not sure abt the tenoning! How you keep it vertical, not to mention safe?
I'd have done slots/rebates before removing the tenon cheeks - cut cheeks early but cut shoulders and remove them as last operation.
Why the 4 shoulders around the tenon? 2 is normal for almost everything (plus haunching), 3 or 4 is for fine furniture detailing (sometimes).

cheers
Jacob

[mailee]

Oh Sh*t, Jacob! I have just realised what I have done now you have pointed it out, I shouldn't have cut all four shoulders. Oh well we all make mistakes I suppose.
As for the tennoning the piece isn't as long as it looks and the jig runs on a 'T' slot runner so is very stable in use. I also use two clamps on the timber so it won't move (Not in photo) It does try the blade on the saw though and needs three cuts at varing depths to complete a cheek. I did consider cutting the rebates first but thought it wouldn't make that much difference. As long as I make sure I don't make any more mistakes!

[mrgrimsdale]

As long as I make sure I don't make any more mistakes!
The only people who achieve this are those who make nothing, do nothing and say nothing. ;D

cheers
Jacob

[jfc]

Love that jig on the table saw ;D Time to invest in a bandsaw i think mate

[davyowen]

I think I see a bandsaw in that very picture, just to the right of the vertical piece. It would definately be a safer way of making that cut.

[jfc]

Oh yeah . I was looking at the " If this goes wrong i'm f*ck*d " face ;D

[mailee]

I really can't see the problem with this cut as the piece is well clamped and is less than 2 feet long. the jig runs in the motre slot with a 'T' section so can't move in use other than sliding back and forth. Add to this that the cuts are not full depth at once I wouldn't cut lengths longer than this of course but for somethng of this length or shorter I feel safe enough using this method. I do have a bandsaw but find it does not cut accurate enough for tennons.

[jfc]

Sorry mate just pulling your leg ;D However i have only once tried to cut a small tenon on a table saw and decided that it was not the way to do it .
Get a good Dragon blade in your band saw and get the fence sorted out . Much safer and faster . If you need to you can make a false bed for a cheapo router to clean up the tenon but i doubt you will need it with a good bandsaw blade .
I try to look at what a machine is made for and in my opinion a table saw is not for cutting tenons . You have the right machines there for the right job and far be it for me to tell you how to suck eggs but it is worth your fingers to re look at what you have for the jobs .
If you look at it another way , you have made a jig to use on a machine to cut tenons . If that machine was made to cut tenons you wouldnt need to make a jig .

[mailee]

Well after a couple of nights more work I got well on. I would have posted last night but the Internet was slower than a snail with piles! Anyway I got the edges of the frame moulded and glued up the wood for the panels.



Then after dimensioning them cut them on the router table.



Two panels were then finished ready to fit.



After dry fitting the door the panels were tried in place.



Just some moulding to make to hold in the glass next and then I can glue everything up at last.


Will keep you posted once this is complete.

[jfc]

Looking good mate . Make sure you check it is in line on glue and clamp up or all your hard work will be ruined . Check the head of the door is on the same level as the bottom rail by running your eye over the opposite timber edges , if you see a gap of light you need to rack the door to lose the light .
But then you probably already know that .

[mailee]

Yep, been there and done that before Jason. I lerned my lesson the hard way before. Now I always check before and after glue up just in case. I always pick through the timber in the merchants when I buy it to make sure I get straight lengths and ensure that it is flat and level during glue up. I find that I can adjust it if slightly out while gluing but after the glue is set not much hope so prevention is better than cure. Thanks for pointing it out though Jason, others might not have been there yet.

[mailee]

Just a short session today as I got the door glued up.



All the tennons were Fox wedged seeing as I made a mistake with the shoulder cuts.



Will get the panels fitted tomorrow.

[simuk]

Looking good mailee


Simon

[mailee]

Thanks Simon. I should point out that I mistakenly posted these as Fox wedges and they are not as has been pointed out on the other place, they are just wedged tennons as Fox wedges fit into blind tennons. my mistake must be all the falling down fluid I have had tonight.

[mrgrimsdale]

Pissed again! Thats a "mad old Jim Krenov" sorta wedging but I'm sure it'll work OK.
Hope you have left plenty of side to side clearance with the panels, 10, 15 mm or more in total, esp if it's an external door being made in a warm dry workshop - they can expand surprisingly and spring all your joints. Top to bottom less of a prob, allow say 3mm overall.

cheers
Jacob
PS spotted it's internal, so panel expansion less of a prob - but still possible depending on environment.

[jfc]

I've seen this type of wedging used on imported hardwood doors , i think the idea is to split the tenon so it forms a wedge

10 - 15mm or more for expansion ? If you slam the door they would fall out ;D

[mailee]

I managed to get the glass fitted today.



I will fit it into it's new home tomorrow. Should look even better when it is painted.

[mailee]

Here it is finally in place and ready for a lick of paint. Took some hanging as the frame was out of whack as usual. Still customer was very happy with it.

[paulchapman]

Very nice, Mailee.

Cheers

Paul

[mrgrimsdale]

Aug 16, 2008 7:56:15 GMT jfc said:

I've seen this type of wedging used on imported hardwood doors , i think the idea is to split the tenon so it forms a wedge

10 - 15mm or more for expansion ? If you slam the door they would fall out ;D

comes to 5 to 7.5mm clearance each side in a 12mm slot. Can be not enough sometimes. I did a collection of internal replica georgian doors with wide panels (no muntins) paid for by insurance after a big fire.
I fitted them all in mid summer but plasterers came along and plastered the rooms. Damp plaster, small windows not much ventilation, old damp house, panels expanded and sprung the tenons disastrously. Had to take them away, dry them out, cramp them up with a few pegs through to hold the tenons.

cheers
Jacob