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Post by Scrit on Aug 8, 2008 20:54:49 GMT
but don't forget scrit, old houses needed draughts to allow for the proper burning of coal fires. Yes, I know, and it was the draughts people really started to notice after the Clean Air Act came in in the 1960s and they were forced to go to gas or electric instead of burning solid fuels. Old houses got a reputation for being cold and draughty and the only people to go after the replacement market in a big way did so using extruded plastics or aluminium. The guys replacing all those non-standard size windows and doors in ones or twos had been taught in the old ways of doing things - which meant gaps and draughts or brush strips which caused all sorts of other problems. Little wonder there was a shift to top hung casements with/without DG units when sashes were being replaced (and in any case casements are cheaper and quicker to build with firms like Magnet & Southerns happy to supply pre-machined lengths of profile and standard window kits to local joiners). Personally I can't stand top hung casements, but my local council won't let me put vertical sliding sashes into a Victorian house unless I go for primary DG units, so for the meantime they'll have to stay. it is of course interesting that more modern houses suffer from damp or similar problems because they are so "air tight" Not only that, but many of the people up here putting in DG windows and doing damp proofing in the 70s and 80s deliberately blocked up the air bricks and vents many houses had in their living rooms and kitchens resulting in no air flow and lots of mildew. Scrit |
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Post by engineerone on Aug 8, 2008 22:02:30 GMT
we are going to experience similar problems in the future because of the rush into the unknown with so called global warming and trying to re-insulate homes, or put solar power in. very few people in construction seem to understand the need for proper air flow both in the home, and indeed in their tools as you and i (scrit) have discussed before in relation to extraction on power tools. in the same way is the old con about damp proofing when in most cases it was the over loading of outside floor earth to bridge the gap between the damp course and the upper brick level.  it is worrying that so much damage is done by incompetent local government "experts" paul  |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Aug 9, 2008 7:41:46 GMT
but don't forget scrit, old houses needed draughts to allow for the proper burning of coal fires. plainly the whole thing with central heating is that the air is not needed for combustion, so the circulation requirements were different. as jacob says, it is now possible to build good air tight sash windows, and sometimes good doors too ;D it is of course interesting that more modern houses suffer from damp or similar problems because they are so "air tight" paul The point has been lost in general - but a trad sash or a trad door, if properly made and fitted, is quite draught proof* and air tight enough. An old sash properly serviced can also be made draught proof* , without plastic brushes etc *Draught proof; i.e. close enough fitting to prevent draughts but allowing a low level of ventilation sufficient for the health of the room and the longevity of the joinery. If you don't have this you need trickle vents or other air ingress, or you will die  cheers Jacob PS been looking at telos's arguments again. I think he is being conned by all the high tech jargon. He's advocating an expensive modern paint which is difficult to apply and unproven in longevity, which only lasts as long as trad linseed oil paint, with no indication of what you do when your 8/10 years is up. Do you strip it all off and start again or what? |
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Telos
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Post by Telos on Aug 9, 2008 8:34:04 GMT
been looking at telos's arguments again. I think he is being conned by all the high tech jargon. He's advocating an expensive modern paint which is difficult to apply and unproven in longevity, which only lasts as long as trad linseed oil paint, with no indication of what you do when your 8/10 years is up. Do you strip it all off and start again or what? Err, hello, I'm over here... No I'm not being "conned by high tech jargon" you old fart Neither do I slag off and discredit new ideas or technologies just because that's not how my Grandfather used to do things... Yes, it is expensive. (Comparable to Holkam's linseed oil paint) No, it's not difficult to apply (if you know how to paint properly). You do have to prepare the surface thoroughly, but you should be doing that anyway. It flows like milk, dries reasonably quickly and gives a mirror/glass like finish which is extremely hard wearing, scratch proof and weather resistant. (I sound like an advert.) OK, if you don't like high gloss and prefer the old satin look from linseed, fair enough. But until you have tried it you can't really criticize it can you? Yes, there are many reasons to prefer linseed, but quit dissing modern technology until you've tried it! Rubbol XD is new but SB is not "unproven". It has been around for years and having used it all over my house I can tell you exactly how good it is. My external doors were finished over 5 years ago and I can't tell they weren't painted last year. The gloss level is still extremely high. If and when the surface begins to go matt, you only need to lightly sand back, then recoat for another super smooth, high gloss finish. I should probably get myself a job with Sikkens about now... |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Aug 9, 2008 8:56:31 GMT
snip Yes, there are many reasons to prefer linseed, but quit dissing modern technology until you've tried it! snip Life's too short - there so much modern techy stuff to try, all those brass nobby gadgets and magic new improved materials! I'm not dogmatically committed to trad methods inspite of appearances, it's just that I find it really interesting to find out what excellent traditional babies have been thrown out with the bath water. In the area of woodwork there are loads of them! cheers Jacob |
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Telos
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Post by Telos on Aug 9, 2008 18:23:05 GMT
Yebbut, I like new brass nobby gadgets 'n stuff....
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