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Post by corset on Aug 19, 2008 11:41:42 GMT
I know this has been asked before but i cannot seem to get the search function to give the answers. So sorry for that I am currently doing up a house to move into and its likely that i won't be in till christmas so I am not in a huge rush. Therefore I would like to have a go at making the internal doors. I have a spindle moulder with a power feed (a hammer b3),sliding table and a tenononing hood and want to see if i can make them. I would like to make the doors with a some panels and tenons etc. So my question is what tooling do i need. I could do the tenons on the bandsaw but I am unsure of how to get the profile and counter profile to work. Or I am happy to get a tenoning set up if that makes it easier. Basically i need advice on what to buy to make a solid door easily and safely (well assuming i do everthing right). I guess I have a budget of about five hundered quid for tooling or thereabouts as I have about 12 doors to make. Sorry if this seems a bit daft but i have been looking a various sites and I am getting a but confused. I would like to go for a solid set up as at some point I have some external doors to have a go at possibly. I am aware that it would probably be cheaper to buy them but where is the fun in that? ;D Owen
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Post by jfc on Aug 19, 2008 12:50:48 GMT
The axminster traditional window cutters are also the ovolo for a door . £50 including limiters . I dont know if you can do a door tenon on your machine , i cant on mine so i use the bandsaw .
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Post by jfc on Aug 19, 2008 13:02:46 GMT
or cutters 175 page 89 axminster catalogue will do the ovolo both sides and an adjustable groover to do the rebate for the panels . I would then go for a dedicated raised panel block .
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Post by corset on Aug 19, 2008 13:02:55 GMT
Sorry to be thick here. If i cut a tenon how will I get the counter profile on either side of the tenon so it will match up with the door rail.
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Post by big-all on Aug 19, 2008 13:06:52 GMT
you use a twin pin marking gauge set up to the chisel size and work only from the face highlight the lines with pencil when you cut leave half the pencil line in
if your mortices are machine done only ever adjust the tennons except to smooth out the bottom
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Post by corset on Aug 19, 2008 13:12:36 GMT
Sorry, That was badly written. On the rail will how do i cut the tenon piece to wrap around the profile when i slide the piece together. Or do i just chop out the profile and cut a mitre.
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Post by jfc on Aug 19, 2008 13:17:13 GMT
Chop off the profile and mitre or scribe it . So your tenon cheeks are touching the rebate , if your rebate is 10mm then you allow for that on your tenon . So your tenon will be 10mm smaller than the width of the timber you started with . ....... I'm confusing myself now ;D
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Post by corset on Aug 19, 2008 13:21:07 GMT
Cheers, That makes a bit more sense. Just having trouble finding the profile you sugested in the universal cutter blocks 175 seems to be a big scoop.
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Post by jfc on Aug 19, 2008 13:42:01 GMT
its a small scoop but if you drop it into your timber it leaves a quirk a round over and a quirk , also known as an ovolo
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Post by corset on Aug 19, 2008 13:58:16 GMT
Once again I am impressed by my own stupidity.
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