Kitchen worktop and out of square corners

[gromit]

Hi

I have some post formed kitchen worktops to install, "U" shaped but one of the internal angles is about 75 - 80 degrees.
I've not used a jig for the masons mitre before so am not sure if this is possible but can I get around this problem by:-


1. cutting the female joint square and the male joint at an angle

or

2. cutting both the male joint and female joints at an angle


or is there another way around this?

[jfc]

From what i remember the masons mitre jig only works 7deg off of 90 deg .

[Scrit]

i agree with that, there's a limit to how far off right angles the MM jig can work (I'd say less than 7 degrees, but what the heck). I think the OP is probably down to doing a very long mitre joint, unless he has the time/patience to set-out a mason's mitre himself (which was how they were doing it in the early 1980s BTW)

Scrit

[engineerone]

surely it is more logical in this case to join the two parts in straight line in line with the length of the longest piece, then you can basically hide the join more easily, and the only angle cut is the ends where they abut the wall, and may well be covered by the upstand.

paul

[Scrit]

Logical, maybe, but could you explain exactly how you'd achieve this? I've seen a few kitchens with post-formed tops where the mason's mitre joint was done by hand. It's not impossible, but it does take skill and practice especially because the materials are awkward to deal with and the margin for error is almost nil

Scrit

[engineerone]

plainly i was being simplistic, but forgive an amateur

i forgot the piece about post forming. so in my suggested method you would end up with a section where there was no post formed up stand.

i would tend to think that in these circumstances, post forming is as much of a problem as a benefit.

i wasn't suggesting cutting freehand, rather using one of those masons thingies but in a straight line not at an angle.

from memory with those jigs, you cut each piece seperately, so
how about setting out the angle at 37.5-40 degrees on the long piece, and putting the jig on that, then offering up the side piece, and marking it at each end, then cutting by saw and guide, then clamp the jig and do the balance of the joint. or is that too simple also

or is that my usual rollocks ;D

paul

[gazza]

Aug 21, 2008 12:58:49 GMT gromit said:

or is there another way around this?

Yes,
use post formed joint strips
Out of square joints can be done to a certain extent by both methods you describe, ( i find cutting the female square and the male out of square the easiest), but 75 - 80 degrees is a fair way off square I dont think you will be able to get it cut.
your first near enough 90 degree joint will probably do your head in anyway so i wouldnt recomend you attempt an out of square joint without a few under you belt.
Its quite difficult to explain all the variables you must ensure are spot on when cutting out of square in words (easier to show you) but believe me you can balls up your worktops very very easily if you dont know exactly what you are doing.


Can you not stud the wall with tapered battons and then plasterboard or ply to bring it back to square, as i think even if you managed to cut the mitre to suit it just wouldnt look right.
Cheers,
Gazza.

[gromit]

Thanks every one for the advice