large sliding type dovetails

[modernist]

I think this is just a terminology thing. It's just a large lap dovetail.

JK's bridle joint is a feeble weak joint which is nevertheless quite difficult to do neatly. Easy to do badly. A normal M&T hides all the mistakes!
It's this joint which made me think that old Jim actually knew f.a. abt trad woodwork when he wrote the books

.

I see no problem used in the apopropriate place, as he did, corners of panelled tops (especially if with some sort of board core). The glue strength is huge but you're right it is difficult to do well by hand. No prob with a bandsaw or slotter on the spindle.

Brian

[mrgrimsdale]

as for the socket, actually the most difficult thing for me is to ensure that the sides are square and vertical. that is also a sawing problem i guess. ;D

paul

I'd say your problem is in marking up. There's some rough looking pencil marks there. I can't see any mortice gauge lines at the socket neck, or any square lines except the tail shoulders which look neat.
Why not have a few more goes in some scrap before committing yourself to the finished project?

cheers
Jacob

[mrgrimsdale]

Sept 21, 2008 20:05:56 GMT modernist said:

I see no problem used in the apopropriate place, as he did, corners of panelled tops (especially if with some sort of board core). The glue strength is huge but you're right it is difficult to do well by hand. No prob with a bandsaw or slotter on the spindle.

Brian

Sawn edges all have to be perfect to look OK whereas in a normal M&T most of them are hidden in the mortice, and gaps filled with wedges.
Modern glue strength enough but only if you have well fitting faces and clamp across each corner to stop the sides spreading, as well as sash cramps on all sides.
Nowhere for wedges, so glue dependent - and clamps whilst drying - 4 sash cramps, 4 G clamps.
He also does that messy detail of stopping the slot in the tenon instead of running it through. Only excuse for that is that no-one has ever showed him how to do it properly!
The clincher is that n million trad joiners around the world wouldn't use this joint except for rough work.
I doubt old Jim was ever trained - or at least he wasn't paying attention!

cheers
Jacob

[tusses]

Doesn't look too bad, if you are not used to hand cutting them.

A sharp pencil perhaps

also, whilst 'practicing' you might find it better to saw on the waste side of the line and clean up with a chisel. then you can just keep paring a little off at a time until you get a nice tight fit.

what saw are you using ? is it sharp ? a good and sharp saw makes a big difference.

Rich


<EDIT> 0 oops , didn't see page two ! as Grim said - marking out is crucial if you are to have a nice joint. What else do you cut to ? !