Telos
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Post by Telos on Jan 27, 2008 18:14:45 GMT
The main problem with all these gaskets and brushes etc is the amount of room you have on the material . Most of my work is replacing existing windows and i have 44mm to play with . With all these new ideas soon we will have 60mm thick windows and will need a 10mm gap just to open them  Yes, you are right of course. Trying to fit modern glazing into old frames just doesn't work or it looks hideously inelegant. An alternative I have seen to squeezing in a bead of less than 10 mm is to fit a flat bead which covers the edge of the frame instead of sitting in the rebate. A bit like the beading in sainty's sketchup pictures. If they are bulked out to stand proud of the frame then vertical ventilation holes can be routed into the bottom strip. Thereby getting the best of both worlds. It doesn't look pretty though.  |
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Telos
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Posts: 123
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Post by Telos on Jan 27, 2008 18:17:50 GMT
Am I right in thinking that this gasket stuff is double sided sticky? If so how many chances do you get to position the glazing unit properly? Also when the time comes to replace the unit how easy is it to get out, and how easy is it to remove the remains of the gasket, prior to installing new? It doesn't have to be double sided, that's only really necessary if you think someone's going to try to remove a small pane to break in. It is pretty much a one chance sticky goo which you can't remove without destroying the tape. Lighter fluid gets the glue off though. |
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Post by sainty on Jan 27, 2008 21:39:28 GMT
Thanks Telos, appreciate the help.
A couple of questions if I may.
First, the links don't work! Could you fix them please?
Are the rubber blocks that the bead sits on continuous? If so, how does this vent? I'm not sure that I have my head round this whole venting thing!
The sections of the casements show a storm proof type window. These always remind me of an 80s housing estate with cheap dark stained wooden windows. I'm hung up on the "romantic" notion of the simple wooden window, brought up to date with the use of appropriate technology. I love the design of JFCs windows but are you saying that this isn't appropriate for a new window ( sounds like I'm sh*t stirring but I promise that I'm not!!). Not only this, but all the sections on the diagrams you show are significantly more difficult to machine than on my simple examples!
Thanks again
Sainty
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Telos
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Post by Telos on Jan 28, 2008 9:24:03 GMT
Ooops. Wrong code Links fixed now  You should be able to buy the mastic, foam tape and blocks/wedges from wherever you buy your double glazing though. So don't worry about having to order loads of bits everywhere. If you look at the right hand drawing in my post over the page, the bottom bead sits on 5 or 6mm thick neoprene rubber washers every 20 cm or so. It is not a continuous strip. The gap has to be large enough that it doesn't get painted shut. The more common alternative on the left has a groove machined down the middle of the bottom face of the bead, which creates a pair of ridges. Alternating between the two ridges you then machine away part of the ridge every 8 cm. Looking from the front you can see small holes under the bead that lead into the groove. Hmmm, I'm not sure any of the council estates I've seen could afford storm proof windows but I know what you are saying! The problem is elegant, thin, Georgian style windows aren't really compatible with modern window design. Especially when combined with ugly, thick 24mm DG units. However, the vertical beading doesn't have to look as chunky as in my first drawing and it can have an ovolo or whatever machined into it. If you use the machined bottom bead instead of rubber blocks then the bottom bead doesn't have to look that bad either. The modern designs don't have to look ugly, all that is trying to be achieved is longevity of the DG unit, preventing the bottom rail from rotting if water does get past the seal and preventing high pressure blow-by around the sides of the frames. The TRADA link should explain it all. Like I said over the page this may all seem like over-kill but as you are replacing (not repairing) your windows they will need to be approved by a BCO anyway (I think?!) so that they meet the current standards (Part L1B) for thermal efficiency and light. So you need to know the current regs anyway. |
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Post by thatsnotafestool on Jan 29, 2008 12:14:40 GMT
All very nice, Telos, with one caveat. The window needs to be very very large. I think there is nothing as naff as a small casement opener where the ratio of actual visible glass to wood is about 1:5. Style? Elegance? Proportions? Went out of the window. Take a look at a traditional Georgian window. You'll see what I mean. Not taking a pop at you, Telos, BTW...more at the demise of aesthetics in modern windows - maybe we should rename them - call them very large items of over-engineered timber construction with a very small aperture for the transmission of light. Whats' that acronym now? FENSA...frantically eliminating nuance, style (and) aesthetics  |
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Telos
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Post by Telos on Jan 29, 2008 15:46:28 GMT
No need to apologise, thatsnotafestool, I agree entirely. In fact I said as much in the post above:
Some modern windows can be horrifying in appearance, unfortunately performance and regulations are all that count nowadays.
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chill
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Post by chill on Jan 30, 2008 14:03:36 GMT
hi, iirc when i used to fit upvc windows (wash my mouth out) many years ago, we used to spray the double sided security tape with glass cleaner alowing the unit to be moved.the cleaner evaporated allowing the tape to adhere
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You should be able to buy the mastic, foam tape and blocks/wedges from wherever you buy your double glazing though. So don't worry about having to order loads of bits everywhere.
