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Post by Dave S on Oct 15, 2008 18:41:56 GMT
One of those days you wish could start again so you can make sensible decisions instead!  I lipped a veneered panel - the lipping was quite a bit thicker than the panel so I decided to take the bulk off with the router. I have a jig for this (essentially a large base which keeps the router stable) but it's built for a really old cheap router (Wicks own brand, I think  ) I should have known better, but I dug it out and fired it up...... the cutter slipped in the collet and went through the veneer of the panel  I made myself feel momentarily better by doing a Jason and hurling the router at the wall and then again at the floor.... ahem. Now, though, I need to repair the veneer on the panel. Fortunately it is on the least visible part of the panel. Question is (finally!) how to go about repairing the veneer? My hunch is that the repair would be least visible if the patch is an irregular shape. Any tips? Dave (wishing he'd kept all those restoration articles from F&C) |
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Post by jfc on Oct 15, 2008 18:57:09 GMT
No no no you need to go back and shout at it then break it good  If the panel has grain pattern then you could hide it in that . I thought a butterfly patch would be good on the boat but it sticks out like a sore thumb , lucky the wind screen covers it . |
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Post by Dan Tovey on Oct 15, 2008 19:31:40 GMT
Why not just cut the panel down to get rid of the damaged bit and replace it with a wider lipping?
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 15, 2008 19:48:40 GMT
Just wondered why you didn't take it off with a hand plane instead. Praps it was a lot of lip.
But one of the many drawbacks of the router is just how easy it is to get it wrong. You only have to f*rt and there's a permanent blip on the workpiece!
cheers
Jacob
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Post by engineerone on Oct 15, 2008 19:51:51 GMT
got a picture dave  this is the colin cott moment of course, but you need to basically cut a shape that you can easily replicate. and from where are you going to get the replacement veneer?? do you have a bit of waste ?? particularly one which has a similar pattern. diamond shape is generally reckoned to be best, depending on the placement. but i have recently repaired solid oak with slices quite well. paul  |
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Post by Dave S on Oct 15, 2008 19:56:46 GMT
Just wondered why you didn't take it off with a hand plane instead. Praps it was a lot of lip. But one of the many drawbacks of the router is just how easy it is to get it wrong. You only have to f*rt and there's a permanent blip on the workpiece! cheers Jacob Normally the lip would be only a couple of mm proud so I would use hand plane and a light sanding. But in this instance I wasn't able to rip the lipping down before applying it to the panel, so it was about 15 mm proud. Hence taking the lazy option I guess it's true of most tailed tools - when something goes wrong it goes very wrong. Lesson learnt the hard way... Dave |
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Post by Dave S on Oct 15, 2008 20:00:57 GMT
Why not just cut the panel down to get rid of the damaged bit and replace it with a wider lipping? I may well do just that. I think I might try to repair the veneer first, though, simply because I've never done it before and I might cheer myself up a bit if I learn something new from it. Dave |
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Post by Dave S on Oct 15, 2008 20:09:17 GMT
got a picture dave this is the colin cott moment of course, but you need to basically cut a shape that you can easily replicate. and from where are you going to get the replacement veneer?? do you have a bit of waste ?? particularly one which has a similar pattern. diamond shape is generally reckoned to be best, depending on the placement. but i have recently repaired solid oak with slices quite well. paul No picture, I'm afraid, because my wife has the camera with her in Berlin. I have quite a lot of oak offcuts kicking about so I ought to be able to cut a piece of veneer that is a good match. I think I have an offcut of oak veneered mdf so I can practise on that first. Should I place the new veneer over the hole and cut through both veneers at the same time? Dave |
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Post by engineerone on Oct 15, 2008 21:04:00 GMT
although that is i think the preferred option there are a couple of things to think about. you need the piece being inset to be tapered in the vertical so it sits in, and of course should be a little taller, so it can be planed back to level. so i guess what i am saying is use a craft knife at an angle of about 15-20 degrees to the vertical when cutting round the piece to be inset, and the hole in the surface. paul |
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Post by lynx on Oct 15, 2008 21:58:54 GMT
No option to scrap the panel and start again then. Any infills i've done is with own veneered, so got prenty of the original veneer to match too.
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Post by promhandicam on Oct 15, 2008 22:00:28 GMT
why not make it a feature? take a few more chunks out to give it a sort of rough hewn look Steve |
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Post by colincott on Oct 27, 2008 0:00:44 GMT
Hi Dave If you still need some advice on this I will post some pics to help? let me know if you do  |
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Post by jaco on Oct 27, 2008 4:24:43 GMT
Our veneer suppliers patch a layon with a "spear" shaped piece, matching up the grain direction and colour.
Most of the time it is not visible.
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) I should have known better, but I dug it out and fired it up...... the cutter slipped in the collet and went through the veneer of the panel 
