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Post by sainty on Oct 20, 2008 20:49:46 GMT
I know that it was mentioned here but I just stumbled across this website for holkham linseed oil paints which makes quite interesting reading Worth putting in your bookmarks I reckon. rgds Stu |
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Post by jake on Oct 20, 2008 21:56:36 GMT
Nice, subtle, colours too. Not used them in anger, just samples.
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 20, 2008 22:05:51 GMT
Done two big windows with Holkham paint. Easy to apply, good coverage so cheaper than it seems, looks good (not too glossy), no VOCs, no solvents required, brushes and hands easy to clean. Only draw back is slow drying time - and I've got to wait a few years to see if its as good as they say it is. cheers Jacob  |
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Post by sainty on Oct 20, 2008 22:19:01 GMT
It seems like one of those head scratching moments, why wouldn't you use linseed oil paints? How much more expensive are they? The cost is so small relative to the whole job/life span that it hardly matters. Drying time - 24hrs?
rgds
Stu
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 20, 2008 22:33:18 GMT
It seems like one of those head scratching moments, why wouldn't you use linseed oil paints? How much more expensive are they? The cost is so small relative to the whole job/life span that it hardly matters. Drying time - 24hrs? rgds Stu A lot cheaper than conventional paint I'd say. No primer, just linseed oil which goes a long way, no undercoat. Those 2 windows took about 300ml to do 3 coats. Drying time 24 hours minimum on a warm dry day, more like 2 or 3 days in average conditions |
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Post by lynx on Oct 21, 2008 8:52:49 GMT
Can you not use a series of heaters to speed the process alone?
I have a large window job and would like to offer these paints but it's starting to get cold in the workshop and I only have 1 week to paint it all.
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 21, 2008 9:05:42 GMT
Don't see why not. Blown dust not so much of a problem as with high gloss paints as the finish is not very shiny.
I'm wondering about a cubicle, vented with fine mesh over the vents, with perhaps an oil filled radiator.
cheers
Jacob
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Post by lynx on Oct 21, 2008 9:17:47 GMT
trying to be a lazy b*st*rd here, this stuff can't be sprayed can it?
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 21, 2008 9:21:23 GMT
Dunno really but I doubt it. It has to be very thin and well brushed. Too thick and it doesn't dry for weeks.
I've never sprayed but I can't see it being much use with window frames - too many thin sections, no large areas.
cheers
Jacob
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Post by jfc on Oct 21, 2008 16:45:54 GMT
Spraying windows is super quick compared to a brush . I'm sure you have a compressor so i would say it's worth investing £30 in a spray gun just to see how quick it is and if it can spray this paint .
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Post by Keith on Oct 21, 2008 17:40:11 GMT
What about adding terabine to the paint ?? Not sure if that is practical with a linseed oil paint though  |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 21, 2008 18:35:11 GMT
What about adding terabine to the paint ?? Not sure if that is practical with a linseed oil paint though Terabine + linseed oil and other stuff makes danish oil, so it would work as a drier as far as I know. But I wonder if the slow drying is something to do with the long life; paint bonding better or something? In my unfortunate painting experience quick drying (esp acrylic primer) seems to mean short life. I painted my sister's house years ago using good quality acrylic primer, normal undercoats and gloss. Carefully followed instructions etc. The whole lot peeled off in about 3 years.  cheers Jacob |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 21, 2008 18:49:02 GMT
Spraying windows is super quick compared to a brush . I'm sure you have a compressor so i would say it's worth investing £30 in a spray gun just to see how quick it is and if it can spray this paint . Haven't got the kit. But this stuff is easy to put on anyway, and the instructions say you have to brush it in well. Also - is it easy to spray narrow glazing bars without covering the glass , and keep the paint coat thin, and cover the putty/glass join etc? Also you don't have to wash anything if you brush (except your hands) as you leave the brush in oil. That's one of the good points - it washes off hands or clothes without needing solvents, swarfega etc. It really is nice to use! cheers Jacob PS Things you won't need: primer, undercoat, thinners, brush cleaners, hand cleaners, barrier creams. And you won't get permanent paint marks on your jeans (if you wash them soon enough). The more I think about it, the better and cheaper it seems! |
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Post by jfc on Oct 21, 2008 19:13:02 GMT
Its very easy and fast to spray thinner material , you can spray it as fast as you can run your hand over it . That goes for the rest of the window aswell . I might order 1L just to see if it can be sprayed .
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Post by sainty on Oct 21, 2008 19:55:58 GMT
The more I think about it, the better and cheaper it seems! ..and for those sticky moments it will act as a laxative too! (footnote a)rgds Stu |
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Post by mooretoolsplease on Oct 21, 2008 20:00:13 GMT
I'm sure it could be sprayed too, with the right thinner.
For windows that are puttied in I normally fully coat the frame and glazing bar etc then hand coat the putty once the glass is in.
No messing around masking up panes of glass and the like then
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 23, 2008 6:44:47 GMT
Linseed paint trial. Does it stick to old paint? 2 doors primed with oil only , yesterday.  5 years ago this door was carefully stripped, knotted, primed with ordinary wood primer, painted with 2 undercoats and probably 2 gloss coats. All good quality paints but it started peeling 3 years on:-  Oil on to 2 year old aluminium primer. Soaks in surprisingly well. Should have done the door above with aluminium as it does seem durable, as does shellac knotting. It's all the other stuff which fails:-  I'll let you know how it goes! cheers Jacob |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 24, 2008 13:22:39 GMT
48 hours later.
Oil on the grey primed door soaked in and disappeared quickly but still looks vaguely not quite dry, so will leave it a bit longer.
On purple door - was still quite oily runny this morning and covered in dead midges! Sun's been on it for a few hours and it's now quite dry and hard to the touch. So heat makes a big difference but it could be good to pass a hot air gun over before painting, to make sure. And sand off the midges.
I reckon I could put paint on tomorrow if weather OK.
cheers
Jacob
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 27, 2008 7:47:18 GMT
Couldn't do it over the weekend. It's all looking dry except for under the head of the frame on the purple door, where the sun doesn't shine.
But the weather forecast is bad, so that's that for the time being. Wet paint left for too long is going to get messy. Come back next spring!
cheers
Jacob
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Post by jfc on Oct 27, 2008 8:25:07 GMT
I agree , i put some wet paint on my front door about four years ago and its looking a right mess now  |
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Post by modernist on Oct 27, 2008 12:38:32 GMT
How do I arrange a personal demostration from Sonja? ;D
Paints look good too - I'll give them a try
Brian
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 27, 2008 13:00:48 GMT
Sun shining, changed my mind. It's a trial anyway - so it'll be useful to know what not to do Dense colour "linseed blue" - covers well.   PS an afterthought - it covers exceptionally well. The ghastly purple is completely gone. Not a thick coating - followed instructions; thin as possible and well brushed in. No vested interest here I hasten to add. No free tins. I haven't met Sonja or shaken hands with Viscount Coke. ;D If I finally decide its total sh**te I'll say so! |
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 27, 2008 21:58:28 GMT
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 28, 2008 16:05:00 GMT
It's touch dry today, but soft - you could scrape it off with a finger nail. So thats OK considering the weather. Fewer dead midges attached so the cold is a benefit!
Was brushed on thin as I know from the windows that the slightest build up of thickness, like a run into a corner, won't dry for a very long time.
But otherwise slow drying is just something to get used to. No prob.
cheers
Jacob
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Post by agbagb on Oct 30, 2008 23:05:44 GMT
Has anyone tried this paint on double glazed windows?
I keen on trying this stuff but the Holkham site says to keep the paint off the seals. I'm looking at using EPDM seals around the glazing on my sliding sashes, if its a potentially serious problem I don't think I'll risk it.
Andy
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