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Post by engineerone on Oct 22, 2008 21:59:39 GMT
so i would like to cut some acrylic for making blade covers etc. i managed to get a large sheet of 6mm from an advertising hoarding, so i want to convert it into smaller strips. any bright ideas about the type of blade which might work on either my table saw, or my mafell circular saw?? i have a great blade on my delta mitre saw, but it cannot cut as far as i would like. paul
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pj
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Post by pj on Oct 23, 2008 8:11:40 GMT
Paul, I use the Festool saw with standard 48 tooth blade. It works a treat.
Philip
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Post by jake on Oct 23, 2008 11:26:39 GMT
Turn the speed right down if the Mafell has speed control like the TS55.
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Post by jonnyd on Oct 23, 2008 18:13:40 GMT
I have cut it sucessfully on the table saw with a triple chip blade. Thinner stuff can be cut by double sided taping it onto to some mdf and sawing both pieces at once.
jon
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Post by tusses on Oct 23, 2008 19:36:04 GMT
Ive used a band saw with good results - depends what sizes you want ? tennon saw in days of old
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Post by engineerone on Oct 23, 2008 19:45:05 GMT
tusses tenon saw you have to be joking, i have enough problems cutting wood straight with a tenon saw might see how i can slow down the mafell. interesting that no one has suggested a special blade yet paul
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Post by paulchapman on Oct 23, 2008 19:59:06 GMT
What about a router I used my DeWalt router on a slow speed when I cut this - presumably it's the same sort of stuff Cheers Paul
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Post by engineerone on Oct 23, 2008 20:16:00 GMT
interesting paul, what kind of cutter did you use??? might try that on my rat paul
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Post by paulchapman on Oct 23, 2008 20:25:15 GMT
what kind of cutter did you use??? Just an ordinary 6mm TCT straight cutter with bottom cut. I had my DeWalt 625 on the slowest speed so that the stuff didn't melt and stick to the cutter. I screwed the perspex to a piece of MDF and cut through it into the MDF. I get confused with all these different plastics - I think mine was perspex whereas you are talking about acrylic. I'm not sure what the difference is and whether it will make much difference to how you cut it By the way, you can plane most plastics, like perspex and Formica, with a block plane and get very good results. That's how I did the outside edges on the dovetail marker pictured above. Did it on a shooting board. Best to hone the blade to a steep angle and use a tight mouth. Cheers Paul
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Post by cuttingsolutions on Oct 31, 2008 14:12:08 GMT
For cutting most plastics i would suggest a negative hook triple chip saw blade.
what size are you using?
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Post by engineerone on Oct 31, 2008 20:12:53 GMT
paul this is the sheet i am cutting off it is about 5mmthick in fact. i will be cutting bits about 600x 50 maximum. i have the 744 dewalt or my mafell ksp 40 to use neither of which can i reduce the speed on. so i guess it is down to feed speed. obviously i am worried about getting too much plastic crap on the blade that i will not be able to clean off. paul
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Post by cuttingsolutions on Nov 1, 2008 7:33:21 GMT
obviously i am worried about getting too much plastic crap on the blade that i will not be able to clean off. let me get this right..... this is hard brittle material? if it is you will have no problem cleaning it off the blade.... there are blades designed for cutting this material all day. try a little candle wax on the blade to stop swarf clogging the gullets
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Post by engineerone on Nov 1, 2008 10:42:20 GMT
hi it might well be that you and i have a different view on the use of the word brittle. obviously eventually the plastic will split, but does bend to a reasonable degree, and would go further if heated. i would suggest that you think 6mm mdf but without the break out at the back. when i asked my local supplier ( a woodwork shop) he did not know of many solutions that might fit my table saw, so a link would be useful, but i will try the other route of candle wax. ta paul
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Post by paulchapman on Nov 1, 2008 12:16:09 GMT
Why not keep it simple You could probably cut through it with a Stanley knife and straight edge (use the blade for cutting Formica - Stanley don't do them any more but others do). Cut it slightly over-size, then plane it. Simple If you don't want to cut right through with a Stanley knife, score two lines with the knife and cut between them with a jigsaw - any chipping out will stop at the score lines. Best to clamp it to a piece of hardboard or thin mdf if using a jigsaw so it doesn't vibrate too much. Then plane it as suggested before. Cheers Paul
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Post by engineerone on Nov 1, 2008 13:01:22 GMT
as usual paul, simple and logical (why can't i think like that ;D) thing is i have this great blade on one of my saws, it is designed for cutting plastic, and i have used it to great effect cutting trunking etc, so i was being optomistic but i will try a version of your method, and revert once i have got it sorted. paul
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stevep
Junior Member
Posts: 63
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Post by stevep on Nov 1, 2008 20:11:15 GMT
In my last job we used a lot of acrylic (perspex is the ICI trade name for acrylic). The cast acrylic is easiest to work with (and what most signmakers seem to use). Extruded acrylic is the thin 2mm stuff sold in B and Q, much more brittle and prone to chipping and melting onto the blades, especially coping saws and hacksaws. Up to 3mm, you can score and snap over a straight edge. Bandsaws work well. Circular saws as well, but I would use a feather board or similar. A finely set smoothing plane will give a good finish, which can be improved with 320g, 600g then metal polish. I've never tried a router, but used a CNC machine which is essentially the same. A high tool speed with a very light feed pressure is needed for all machining to avoid chipping. Worst tool of all in my experience is a jigsaw set on low speed. (First post - go easy on me
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Post by jfc on Nov 1, 2008 20:20:31 GMT
Welcome to the forum Steve , glad you made it over . I think you may know Cutting solutions and myself from another forum
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stevep
Junior Member
Posts: 63
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Post by stevep on Nov 1, 2008 20:44:13 GMT
Thanks Jason - I've just spent about two hours on here, and found a load of useful stuff already. Cheap Fein multicut baldes in Folkestone, for starters, and the workshop heating thread. And not so many arguments as in some other places....!
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Post by nickw on Nov 1, 2008 21:24:11 GMT
.... Cheap Fein multicut baldes in Folkestone ... Wherezat then?
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Post by engineerone on Nov 1, 2008 22:07:49 GMT
cheap fein blades how do we find a way to beat a path to the door paul
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stevep
Junior Member
Posts: 63
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Post by stevep on Nov 2, 2008 14:54:21 GMT
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