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Post by jfc on Oct 30, 2008 16:53:44 GMT
I need to make some doors to match some existing ones like this  I was thinking of running the mould off on the stiles and then rebating for the panel and slotting a false tenon in as Jason B has shown before . Any other bright ideas ? |
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Post by cnc paul on Oct 30, 2008 17:14:02 GMT
Jason,
Are they room doors or cabinet doors ?
What size ?
Paul
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Post by jfc on Oct 30, 2008 17:42:46 GMT
Cabinet doors the stiles are 75mm and the bead is about 6mm x 4mm . Some of them will be around 1800mm x 600mm and some 600mm x 600mm . 18mm thick .
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 30, 2008 17:48:04 GMT
Just cross posted so was wrong answer, deleted!
Not sure what the problem is exactly. Better snap? Why would you need a false tenon? Are the panels flush?
cheers
Jacob
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Post by jfc on Oct 30, 2008 17:57:12 GMT
No the panel is set back about 4mm and the stick is flush with the stiles .
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Post by cnc paul on Oct 30, 2008 18:31:55 GMT
How about a stub tennon on the rails and a rebated panel into the stiles and rails, with a small rebate on the stile edge of the panel to take the c*ck bead. If the doors are 600mm wide I would go for 22mm stiles and rails with 12mm panel.  Paul |
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Post by jfc on Oct 30, 2008 19:46:50 GMT
Thats what i was thinking but as i am using MDF and the panel is set back i was going to mould the bead onto the stile and then rebate it to take the panel .
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Post by cnc paul on Oct 30, 2008 20:12:26 GMT
That will be more work.
Cleaning up the moulded MDF, cutting away the moulding where the shoulders meet the stiles, then machining long and short shoulders on the rails or mortice and tennon.... Maybe Domino. even more work.
Paul
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Post by jfc on Oct 30, 2008 20:53:39 GMT
True but i dont think i can buy the bead off the shelf and making it on its own would be a pain as its tiny . I think it would be just as easy to step the tenon shoulders and cut the bead off the stile . Doing it in solid timber would probably be better as the stub tenon would be stronger .
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Oct 30, 2008 21:17:52 GMT
Can't you just copy the original? If it's at all trad it will be made in the most sensible way. Have a look at the tenon ends - they will show how it is put together. You'd need through tenons haunched and wedged for the main members. Stubs only on muntins. Tiny bead no prob - you run it on the edge of a board and then slice it off. mdf - just say no  There should be an mdf-ics anonymous for addicted woodworkers! cheers Jacob |
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Post by sainty on Oct 30, 2008 21:27:13 GMT
I'd go with your way JFC, machining that bead would be a 'mare. Fixing it neatly would also cause problems, both doing it neatly and not damaging it. In theory, you should fix it to the stile and not the panel which just adds to the complications, but if your using MDF it probably doesn't matter. If you are using MDF you can glue the panel so you wont have to worry about the strength of the stub tenon so much.
rgds
Stu
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Post by jfc on Oct 30, 2008 22:32:42 GMT
It's not trad Jacob it's a modern kitchen . They have extended the room and the builder has asked me to match the doors . I normally knock out MDF doors for his wardrobes and kitchens at £40 per door ( nice little earner when you can knock out 25 a day ) But now and then he askes for something else . Its easy money normally .
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Post by engineerone on Oct 30, 2008 23:16:41 GMT
jason why not mould the vertical in situ, and then use biscuits to join across. your picture is not too clear  (better buy canon ;D) but particularly in mdf to ensure you don't bruise it is is better to mould that bead. then undercut to inset the door panel, and that way you could mould the bead for all the doors of maybe one piece to ensure the same profile. paul  |
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There should be an mdf-ics anonymous for addicted woodworkers!
(better buy canon ;D)