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Post by chippy on Nov 2, 2008 14:42:59 GMT
I've been asked to make a fill-in unit for a kitchen (because the owners plan was not too good and they've ended up with a gap at the end of a row of cupboards!). To match in with the rest of it, I'll need to use white laminated conti board for the carcass. How do I cut this stuff?
I ran a sample through my table saw and got awful tear out every which way I tried. I tried scoring the cut with a stanley knife first too, but same result.
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Post by gazza on Nov 2, 2008 15:16:14 GMT
hi chippy. Cut your panels a couple of mm oversize, then use a router, straight bit and straight edge to do the final trim. works well for me  You can normally do them two or three at a time clamped together, i find the worktop bits good for this. HTH, Cheers, Gazza. |
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Post by paulchapman on Nov 2, 2008 22:17:46 GMT
I use a router as well and find it the best way to get a chip-free result. Just be careful not to get any breakout as you come to the end, if the Contiboard is laminated on the edges. Best way to avoid this is to clamp a piece of scrap on the end or carefully rout the last quarter inch or so the wrong way (right to left). Cheers Paul |
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Post by chippy on Nov 2, 2008 22:41:59 GMT
Thanks gents, I'll give that a go.
I did try something today that was a little better, which was sandwiching a panel between two pieces of scrap and then sawing through all three. Still not brilliant though.
Anyway I shall get the router out and do exactly as you suggest.
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Post by paulchapman on Nov 2, 2008 22:47:44 GMT
One other point - take several light cuts rather than doing it in one go, even with a half-inch router. The results are much better that way. Cheers Paul |
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Post by jonnyd on Nov 2, 2008 23:19:08 GMT
You may be able to cut it on your table saw with the right blade. A triple chip blade should cut cleanly. Putting some masking tape on the bottom of the panel will help to avoid chipping the underneath. I have a scoring blade on my saw which allieviates this problem.
jon
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Post by Keith on Nov 3, 2008 8:29:14 GMT
You can use a negative rake blade in a table saw to cut Melamine faced chipboard and this will give you an almost perfect cut. That is when you get the blade set to the perfect height (normally about 3-5mm above the board). They are prone to kick back but I have never had any problems when cutting sheet material. Just don't try to rip timber with one ;D
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Post by engineerone on Nov 3, 2008 11:04:53 GMT
i have previously used a cmt blade in my table saw, which was fine for melamine, and can still be used easily for veneered mdf. paul |
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Post by cuttingsolutions on Nov 3, 2008 14:16:03 GMT
You can use a negative rake blade in a table saw to cut Melamine faced chipboard and this will give you an almost perfect cut. That is when you get the blade set to the perfect height (normally about 3-5mm above the board). They are prone to kick back but I have never had any problems when cutting sheet material. Just don't try to rip timber with one ;D Quite correct, though i would prefer most of the tooth and gullet above the material being cut.... |
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Post by Keith on Nov 3, 2008 16:18:46 GMT
You can use a negative rake blade in a table saw to cut Melamine faced chipboard and this will give you an almost perfect cut. That is when you get the blade set to the perfect height (normally about 3-5mm above the board). They are prone to kick back but I have never had any problems when cutting sheet material. Just don't try to rip timber with one ;D Quite correct, though i would prefer most of the tooth and gullet above the material being cut.... I agree, it is normally best to set the blade with the gullet just level with the surface but not with negative rake blades. You need to find the "sweet spot" for the best results. The blade I use, a Freud LU27M, specifically quotes a 5mm projection, but I find a touch less than that can give best results. |
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Post by chippy on Nov 5, 2008 0:36:15 GMT
Thanks again all. I cut everything using the router, worked like a charm, but I did need to do a few test runs (as was mentioned) to get the depth and number of passes just right to get a nice crisp edge. Job done.
I certainly need to invest in the right blade as I've another similar job to do elsewhere. Custom designed kitchens are beginning to irritate me, since most of the ones I've seen have nothing custom about them all. Standard size units top and bottom and lots of awkward 'custom' gaps here and there, yuk!
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Post by lynx on Nov 5, 2008 12:21:36 GMT
CS, can you advice on the cost for a 250mm dia. negative rake blade, like the freud is listing above please.
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Post by cuttingsolutions on Nov 5, 2008 14:30:14 GMT
Dont have exact equivalent as the freud blade is teflon coated....
but nearest available:
50708401 250 x 2.8/2.2 x 30 Z=64
Neg Triple chip £30.00 + carriage and vat
you would need to check the riving knife is ok for this slightly thinner kerf blade.
50100231 250 x 3.2/2.2 x 30 Z=60
Neg Alternate bevel 26.00 + carriage and vat.
both will do the job as well as the freud blade
Dave
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