Draw-bore pins

[argus]

.

I'm on the look-out for a few pairs of draw-bore pins in a usable condition and at a reasonable cost.

It doesn't mater if they are minus a handle or even un-handled, for that matter, provided that the business end is in good order.

They aren't used much any more, does anyone have any lying around or sitting in an old tool chest?



.

[jake]

I can lend you a couple of pairs for the project that you mentioned over there, but I'd want them back after.

[mrgrimsdale]

Why 4 pairs? 3 pins is usually enough, or one even. Say you have a draw bored M&T with 2 holes; you draw it up - both holes, with one pin and knock a pointed peg into the first one. Or 3 holes; 3 pins, pull one out and peg etc.
Mr Spanton will tell you you just need no pins - tapered pegs alone.
You can only do one joint at a time, unless you've got an apprentice on each!

cheers
Jacob

[jfc]

I wanna see a picture of Jakes pins

[andy king]

Nov 4, 2008 19:42:10 GMT mrgrimsdale said:

Mr Spanton will tell you you just need no pins - tapered pegs alone.

And Mr Spanton would be right in most respects. Drawbore pins are used to temporarily draw a joint together where a cramp isn't feasible to allow you to continue to work on the assembly or check the fit of other components. Staircase newels are a prime example.
Once the fit is checked the pins are no longer needed, the tapered dowels do the work.

Andy

[jake]

I'm in London, Argus, but they would be easily postable. Understand the urge to own, though.

I've heard about people like you Jason, at first you just want a picture of my pins...

[argus]

.

Nov 4, 2008 21:55:12 GMT andy king said:

Draw-bore pins are used to temporarily draw a joint together where a cramp isn't feasible to allow you to continue to work on the assembly or check the fit of other components. Staircase newels are a prime example.
Once the fit is checked the pins are no longer needed, the tapered dowels do the work.

Andy

Got it in one, Andy.

In this case it is a very large table top with bread board ends, two centre rails and the infill with T&G. Clearly cramps are impossible, plus I distrust the flatness of large assemblies with cramps or tourniquets, as the compression on the whole thing leads to a tendency to bend or wind. This in turn needs correction with lateral bracing with more cramps.
My understanding and appreciation of draw-bore pins in this application is that they pull together from the central axis of the mortised part.

Nov 4, 2008 22:06:32 GMT jake said:

I'm in London, Argus, but they would be easily postable. Understand the urge to own, though.

I've heard about people like you Jason, at first you just want a picture of my pins...

Thanks, Jake, much appreciated. London isn’t a problem – just curious where you were.
The use is principally one of holding the thing together while fitting the T&G components, I’m using whittled down pegs at the moment, but it’s a case of Oak (pegs) pulling up on Oak material. Something has to give and it’s usually the pegs. In short, they don’t last and as I’m inclining to this method of construction much more these days for both mechanical and aesthetic reasons, it seems the right time to start a collection.


.

[mrgrimsdale]

You could diy with some steel bar of the right diameter; just file or grind a bit of a taper, belt sander probably easiest and neatest way. Better still if it's a coach bolt with a long un-threaded portion, as the head is useful for pulling out.
Here's a blacksmith version. 5/8" dia with a knuckle at the top for hammering out. Ideal for stair newel post to string joint. One is useful, 2 slightly more so:-

[modernist]

I looked at the thread about pins from Museum of woodwork in NY and was astonished at the huge price of the Ray Isles items.
Also the business of the eccentric seems odd and unneccessary for woodwork - I see no eccentric on the RI pins.

When I get my old mans lathe set up Jacob we could turn some up although personally I would forge them out of black bar with an oxy torch in the absence of a forge. I've got both down in Swad at work.

Surely a fitters standard "podger" would do the trick for next to nowt.


Brian

[mrgrimsdale]

Dunno Brian
Surely they need A3 steel cryogenised at 1million degrees finished with microporous diamond paste with ebony handles and several brass knobs with accuracy of one millionth of a gnats wotsit?
Or you could just wack em out with a big hammer I suppose.

I've got an anvil and some peculiar attachments here, which I want to flog on ebay. Advice needed. Pop over when you have a mo.

PS - Had a good idea about the podgers; cut off the spanner end and fit brass knob instead! Sobvious.

[modernist]

I made some using the whack em out method for tent pegs for the last Hillhead quarry exhibition and it's good fun. Remiss of me to fail to observe the heritage of the expensive pins.

I'm working away quite a lot at the moment, while there remains any work to do, but how are you fixed for a pint 1st, 2nd or 3rd Dec?

Brian

[promhandicam]

Why not use a couple of marlin spikes? Not sure what the dimensions of a draw bore pin are but this site has marlin spikes from 6 to 18" (long presumably ;D)

Or why not a heel pry bar 400mm long and a bargain at under £12.

Steve

[modernist]

Why not indeed.

Brian