How to clic?

[mailee]

I have a laminate floor to lay next week and am not sure how to do it? Sounds stupid I know but it is the Clic type and I have never done these before. Just how does it click together on each side? Do i have to tilt it into the first row and then do i knock the short edge in to the previous one? I am trying to get my head around clicking it together in two different planes at the same time?? I have heard they are easy to lay is this true? I have laid the standard T&G ones and the glue block type before but not these so far, Have I gone in over my head?

[rich]

I'll be interested to hear the answers on this one Mailee, Iv'e got 24sqm to lay in a few weeks time and like you Iv'e never laid the lock type ones.
regards, Rich.

[modernist]

Just done a floor in 14mm "engineered" with the click system. You have to tilt the long edge and sometimes you can slide the short edges together lifting the last laid board with a wedge to allow the tilt ( both boards tilting while fastened together at the ends). Alternatively you can join the ends and then tilt to fit, again lifting the previous board with a wedge. You need to knock them together with the plastic block supplied, and a hammer!

The one I laid was over water based underfloor heating so I laid a 3" strip of PVA down each board and stapled the lower click edge to the chipboard once in place. So far no movement observed!

Best of luck - they don't always go together like the brochure.

Brian

[Dave S]

I've done 4 - the bathroom at my last house and both kid's bedrooms and the study in this one.

I favour clicking the end in place first, then tilting the previously laid board so that the long edge of the new board can be located. A bot of wiggling and finally a good tap with a mallet and the plastic block. There's a bit of a knack but it doesn't take long to acquire.

Hardest part of the job I've found is removing the skirting boards - the build quality of my house is c**p, but skirting boards were meant to stay!!

Dave

[Keith]

mailee you sholdn't have any problems, it is really quick to lay. The only thing to watch out for is with some flooring, the sort with an MDF back, the little click moulding will delaminate all too easily. Modernist's end tilting normally works.

[evergreen]

Mailee

All good advice above. I've done two floors with a clic system and found it straight forward but you need to ensure the surface you're laying it on is really flat. The planks are made with such precision there's no slack in the joints at all. If your surface is just a little uneven, like in a doorway, the long edges won't lock together properly or will pop open when you try and join the next plank. You'll end up beating your head on the floor with frustration. DAMHIKT!

Regards

[niki]

Hi Mailee

Have a look at this site, they have animated instruction
www.classen.de/objects/en/vaol/flash.htm

The most important is that you make the three first rows straight and square...the rest will "run"

Regards
niki

[engineerone]

thanks for the link niki, that is really useful and makes it look like it might well be easier than one thought.

paul

[niki]

Hi Paul

I'm glad that it helps.
I made my living/dining rooms, in total around 70m² (and I had many leftovers that you could see on many of my jigs).

My wife was reading for me the instruction in Polish and translating to English.

The translation was so "good" that I installed them exactly the opposite and tolled her "it cannot be so difficult". After I went to the website....it was so easy, I finished in 2 days and I had many cuts.

There is another "patent" that they are not showing it now for some reason and that is, when you want to push a panel under the door frame...if you shall need it, just tell me and I'll show it with pictures.

Regards
niki

[mailee]

That is brilliant Niki thanks for the link. It certainly demonstrates how easy it is and how to do it. I feel more confident now thanks. ;D

[mailee]

Well I got the job finished but what a pain in the butt it was! I had a lo of troubler with the laminate seperating as I tapped the next section in and it was as though the damn things were bent? I had to take up four runs three times before I got it. It seemed that each time I tapped one of the sections in it would bow the previous one and I had blocks supporting it at the walls too! I will think twice next time I am offered one of these jobs. Give me the good old T&G boards anyday.

[niki]

Hi Mailee

Sorry to hear that.
I did not have any problem with my living/dining and part of the hall and it's 10 Meters long...well, except knees pain...

A few months ago, I made a 5 x 5 Meters room for my wife's sister and I finished by the evening including those panels that comes on the walls around (whatever they are called)...

It can be the material or the brand...I used the "Classen" 8mm...

Regards
niki

[andee]

Like with most things you get what you pay for with laminate flooring. I did two child's bedrooms with the Kahrs Woodloc flooring over old (1930's) floorboards. A cinch to lay, except the fiddly bits around the door jambs and still looked good 6 years after laying.

I ripped out and the skirting and replaced with a hard wood moulding to match the floors, screwed into the wall with tapered plugs (unglued, in case it had to come off) to hide the holes.

If I can get Kahrs flooring in France I'll be doing one of the bedrooms here later in the year.

Andy

[oddsocks]

although it's click its worth sealing the joints if in wet or high traffic entrance areas.... try click seal (I did my mother in law's kitchen at the weekend and bought a tube for about £4 in Topps Tiles)
www.fcimag.com/CDA/Archives/3c0000004d0d8010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____

It runs out like a very liquid clear glue and after 15mins u use a plastic spatula to remove any squeezeout. It isn't a glue - the boards can always be opened and refitted. It does stop moisture (e.g mopping a kitchen floor) from swelling the MDF core.

I did my hall last year and didn't use this. A spilt drink resulted in swelling at a joint that is permanent.

on a different topic, if fitting 'quarry tile' type kitchen laminate and the customer wants the tiles lined up allow a lot extra for wastage!

[oddsocks]

thought of another good idea - before trying to clic the boards together run a pointed tool along the groove to ensure it is clean. As mentioned in an earlier response the mdf clic profile is easily damaged and bits break off into the groove - makes it impossible to join (and lots of frustration, use of hammer and block that then de laminates the next one!).