stevep
Junior Member
Posts: 63
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Post by stevep on Dec 2, 2008 21:10:08 GMT
Reading Eric Stephenson's book, he recommends using a through fence whenever possible, so I fitted a softwood one. I chickened out and cut the bulk of the waste out with a coping saw, fitted it, and then carefully wound the fences back on to the rotating cutter. Even going very slowly though, it was obvious that the cutter didn't really like the 'uphill' side of the cut, so I stopped. I'll trim the rest out by hand tomorrow before I go any further.
So. here goes:
Does everyone use a through fence? I would have thought so as they provide as much support to the work as is possible.
If so, how do you break through? Push the fence back on to the cutter like I tried, or wind up from the bottom, or cut it out by hand?
And have you got a massive collection of through fences that only ever get used once and then gather dust in the corner of the workshop?
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Post by jfc on Dec 2, 2008 21:19:33 GMT
If you do a search on posts by "Scrit " I think he covered it a few times . The idea is to pin on a fence to your timber one when you need a new one . You then push this into your cutters . Myself i cut it out with a coping saw because im a chicken ;D
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Dec 2, 2008 21:20:35 GMT
I don't always use a through fence but it's a very good idea and worth the effort.
The cutter will or won't breakthrough depending on design e.g. you couldn't wind up a rebate cutter from below so you'd have to push the fence on to it. It's a bit nervy at first - but if you lightly tighten one of the hold down bolts and pivot the whole contraption on it, it feels steadier. Some designs you have to cut out, in part at least. I don't keep any - just use scrap mdf or similar.
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Post by jonnyd on Dec 2, 2008 21:21:42 GMT
I just push it through from the front. A bit scary when you first do it but you get used to it.
jon
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Post by jfc on Dec 2, 2008 21:28:24 GMT
I wonder if ColinC would like to make a zero clearence fence for my super block with the handrail cutters in it ;D I think it took about half an hour to go near it and put some timber into the power feed  |
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Post by jonnyd on Dec 2, 2008 21:50:36 GMT
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Post by jfc on Dec 2, 2008 21:55:34 GMT
Someone was telling me about this the other day . Easy to make out of timber and attach to a wooden fence . Might be a job for tomorrow  |
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stevep
Junior Member
Posts: 63
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Post by stevep on Dec 2, 2008 21:59:16 GMT
excellent bit of kit but stupidly expensive. I saw some photos of it in the book - it looked out of my league, and having clicked on your link - it is! |
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Post by jfc on Dec 2, 2008 22:50:18 GMT
I already have the plans in my head for a JFC style bodge up version ;D
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Post by colincott on Dec 2, 2008 23:33:01 GMT
I wonder if ColinC would like to make a zero clearence fence for my super block with the handrail cutters in it ;D I think it took about half an hour to go near it and put some timber into the power feed Jason You have to hopes of that and none of the good haha Well if you do it first I might think about it from here  |
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Post by dom on Dec 3, 2008 21:03:11 GMT
Two pieces of thick ply on your metal fences then a 4mm piece of ply wood for the through fence attached to these with countersunk screws
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stevep
Junior Member
Posts: 63
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Post by stevep on Dec 3, 2008 21:31:42 GMT
After my tentative nibble with the cutter (I'd already sawn most of the opening out with a coping saw) I took the fence off this morning and finished off with a chisel - partly because I wanted to see what the cutter had done. In fact it was not too bad, but it was obvious that the cutter didn't like going 'uphill' all that much. No surprise there.
Perhaps a bit of 20mm softwood was the wrong choice - I'll try ply or mdf next time.
Once I'd got the fence and guarding all sorted, the actual cuts were a piece of cake. Definitely glad I took my time over it though. Thanks for the advice above - gradually starting to get to grips with it all now.
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Post by modernist on Dec 3, 2008 21:56:50 GMT
I find 10mm MDF screwed through from the back of the ally fences or 6mm MDF stuck on some ply sub fences works best as it has no grain and makes a clean profile.
I think it was said above somewhere just clamp one end of the fence and pivot the other to break the cutter through - but make sure you have enough clearance around the block not to catch the guard. The trick is to leave the clamps fairly tight to stop it all flirting around.
cheers
Brian
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Post by nickw on Dec 4, 2008 16:57:53 GMT
Like Dom says, then se the cutter hieght in the right ballpark and just push the fence onto the spinning cutter. Easy!
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