Alcove shelves

[gromit]

Hi folks

(I've posted this on another site so appologies if you are reading it again)

I'm going to make some painted floating shelves like these:-

go to www.intersectiondesign.co.uk/ and click on shelf types

where the shelves slide onto battens in an alcove.

The shelves will be 850mm wide x 340mm deep x 42mm thick and I'm thinking of using 21mm softwood as spacers sandwiched between two sheets of mdf - top sheet 15mm, bottom 6mm, these will be supporting 400mm "coffee table" books.

The back of the alcove is wider than the front so I guess I'll be using filler for the gaps.

Anyone here made this kind of shelving and if so can you offer any advice, tips etc.?

It looks straight forward but with this kind of thing little problems arise - like the shelf won't slide in on the wall battens

John

[dom]

Make sure that the battens are dead level and square also don't make the battens a dead tight fit but not too loose either, sort of just under whisper tight.

[jfc]

The mitre lock cutter is perfect for this kind of shelf .

[dom]

Not on 15mm and 6mm MDF though

[Stree]

I think what was asked was how to cope with side walls that are not parallel.
For this I would use a framing square ( using the rear wall as a reference) and take measurement of each side for the difference between front and back of the shelf, then connvey to a template, thin ply or even stiff card and use this as a pattern for upper and lower faces. This will at worst, minimise the amount of filler required

[engineerone]

first why make the top and bottom different thicknesses??

basically you are making a torsion box so it is easier, cheaper and more effective to make the top and bottom surface the same thickness. the strength is in the framework inside.

as for siting the shelves, i suggest that you make up a couple of sticks, which slide in and out, i use a veritas clamp for mine, but niki has made something similar.

measure the back and the front, and the transfer these to a pattern. otherwise, cut a piece of wood the depth of the alcove, and then use a lump of 2x1 and a pencil to mark the shape on each end. what you want is the wood square to the back of the alcove in the middle, and then add the middle bit you should be fit to trot.

paul

[gromit]

Thanks for the advice guys, one of my concerns is if 15mm top and a 6mm bottom sheet will be strong enough.

[engineerone]

you are not listening, it is the filling which makes it strong not the surfaces ;D

make the internals on about 300 centres, and it will hold your weight with only 6mm top and bottom, if the infill is at least 18mm by 12mm.

paul

[Dave S]

stree said:

I think what was asked was how to cope with side walls that are not parallel.
For this I would use a framing square ( using the rear wall as a reference) and take measurement of each side for the difference between front and back of the shelf, then connvey to a template, thin ply or even stiff card and use this as a pattern for upper and lower faces. This will at worst, minimise the amount of filler required

If I understand you, this would enable you to create a template which fills the alcove, so to speak. But since the back is wider than the front and the shelf has to slide into place, the sides of the shelf will have to be parallel anyway, will they not? Or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

Is there a way to glue the torsion box together in place?

Dave

[paulchapman]

Another possibility (although I've never tried this) is to make the shelf in three parts. Two narrow tapered pieces which are screwed to the wall each side, creating two parallel edges so that you can slide the shelf in between them. If the joins show at the front, you could pin on a piece the full width to hide the joins.

Cheers

Paul

[Stree]

Dave, the shape you describe make it impossible for a slide in solution. Make the templates as suggested, then the actual pieces, then fix in situ. Same strength, same finish, just no slide option

[Stree]

I recently did the same job in an alcove, . used 1"X1" battes/ bearers back and sides, prefixed same stock to front underside of the top which was 18mm oak veneered MDF, screwed up through battens to fiv top in place than pinned 6mm oak ven ply to underside. then used contact adhesive to the the front with solid oak lipping. 1/8"" by thickness of bottom skin, batten and the top, approx 2" result was floating shelf, no obvious support or fastenings and no obvious joints...
Plus I did introduce a centre strut of 1"X1"as a stiffener just because I had run enough of it off
The walls were not parallel on this job either, so measured and templated, then final scribed.

[Stree]

in fact here are the WIP pics for the customer...... The cupboard that was required underneath the shelves has touch latches to the door hence no handles. Wanted a very plain clean look.. Pity about the CH pipework, running alonside it, but thats not my job .The alcove used to be an external doorway and still has the concrete threshold thats why the base has such a deep cutout in it..

s75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/Streepips/oak%20unit/?start=0

[engineerone]

thinking about this overnight, i think that paul chapman's idea is the best

make a pair of shaped corners and then slide the square centre section into the middle.
you could hide the join with mouldings etc or what ever.

otherwise, you have to twist it down onto the rails and rest it on the side ones.

paul

[mooretoolsplease]

I've made loads of these lately.
Theres a guy on the site where I am who makes up brackets for me. he uses 38x6 steel section and welds 25 diameter tube onto it.
I then make up 25 thick frameworks or lattices, leaving gaps for the bars that protrude.
Put a 6 mil veneered mdf on either side and your sorted.

Matt