Spindles again, climb cutting

[Keith]

I have been cutting housings in some oak boards for ledge and braced doors. I'm using a wobble saw in the spindle and the finish is not really good enough as I am geting some (tiny amount really but it shows) tear out round the joint.

I'm thinking of climb cutting the rest using the power feed of course.

Anyone tried this, got any advice? I know I could buy a slot cutter but I'm trying to keep costs down .

Keith

[nickw]

If you are going to try that I would suggest that you make the climb cut just a couple of mm deep and then do a forward pass to remove the bulk.

[jonnyd]

I climb cut occaisionally on the spindle and routertable with no problems using a powerfeed. I have noticed a small tendency for the stock to pull away from the fence if the powerfeed is not setup properly. Another method i use when grooving is to take an initia cut of 1/2 to 1mm just to score the surface and then machine again at full depth. Since i got some adjustable groovers i havent had the need to do this.

[mrgrimsdale]

Wobble saw needs sharpening? Normally a very clean cut. Along the grain only - completely unsuitable for cross cutting.

[jfc]

I seem to remember Scrit saying that climb cutting is a legitimate way of machining for a competent machinist .
So its up to you ;D

[Keith]

Thanks for the replies, I'll have a go taking a small cut first and see how I go.

Jacob, it's a new Omas blade, but you know what oak can be like and I need a perfect edge.

[jfc]

Is you workshop wall stone or wood ;D . Be careful

[Keith]

Dec 7, 2008 10:33:26 GMT jfc said:

I seem to remember Scrit saying that climb cutting is a legitimate way of machining for a competent machinist .
So its up to you ;D

"Competent" That's me bu**ered then, I'd better go back to doing it by hand ;D

[woodworker]

Climb cut 1mm or 2mm depth (just like a scoring unit on a saw table, same thing really) , then take out the rest as normal.

[mooretoolsplease]

What I've done in the past is machine up the material 2-3mm over sized, run it through the spindle then through the thicknesser to final width.

[nickw]

Aaaahh, cunning, Grasshopper. :-)

[Keith]

Thanks again for all the replies, I hope to do some more tomorrow so will try a scoring cut first.

MTP that's a bloody good idea, unfrtunately the wood is all planed up, but next time I'll definately give it a go.

[gazza]

Dec 8, 2008 14:07:47 GMT mooretoolsplease said:

What I've done in the past is machine up the material 2-3mm over sized, run it through the spindle then through the thicknesser to final width.

KP for you Matt,
Excellent idea simple, but not something i had thought of

Tried it with a couple of oak doors i was making, as Keith says, try as you might you still get tear out no matter how you do it.

Your method worked an absolute treat, i found even taking 1mm off was enough.
Cheers mate,
Gazza.

[Keith]

I've since tried various methods and I too think that MTP's idea works the best, apart from getting a groover that is.

Climb cutting works, but it tends to fire dust everywhere.

So a big thanks from me too,

Keith

[lynx]

MTP, i'm going to use that idea for some pippy oak kitchen doors coming up. Thanks for sharing

I had to climb cut some rebates on some sapele doors as any chips would have shown with the small 3mm ovolo pip. Worked a treat with the power feed.

[roines]

I climb cut all my grooves in melamine boards for kitchen carcases, works a treat.