sound proofing workshops

[Head clansman]

Hi all

As you all know my workshop is now complete externally and i have asked questions about differing types of planer to go in it now that it's time to start fitting it out, that is once i can get up and about in a few weeks time.

Since i have to sit and look at four wall for now for nearly a month with my foot up 'I've also been thinking about sound proofing .

Back in my days it was only fiber class rolls (horrible stuff to handle ) nowadays many differing products are available where do i begin.

Now is fiber class rolls insulation and soundproofing or only insulation which is what i think it is ?, or am i wrong .

My work shop is 24 ft * 14* & 3.5 to the ridge its all timber construction 5*2 sawn with 3/8 external ply fitted externally with tyvex paper on the outside plus battens for air flow and then 6" sawn ship lap , the roof is covered in 18mm shuttering ply sheets and then cover in grp green fiber class finish .

Internally i have fitted and screwed all round up to the eaves height 7ft high 18mm mdf of various colors as they were second hand, which can be easily be removed to fit any sound proofing (should have done it first really ) but never mind .

So what type of sound proofing would anybody recommend, what have you guys got fitted in your work shops if any or in your home , or have fitted to any projects you have worked on more importantly does it work , and what sort of costs was it , this sort of info would be nice as materials vary in cost very considerable from suppliers to suppliers. hc

[davyowen]

The first thing we need to know is your budget for soundproofing. This will determine whether you actually soundproof the room or just deaden the sound slightly. Proper soundproofing is very difficult, and quite expensive and also takes up quite a bit of room.

To point you in the right direction - if money/time/space is no object and you want to really cut down on noise transmission the best method would be to fill the void with someHigh Density Slabs. Fix Resilient Bars to the studwork. Fix a layer of plasterboard followed by a layer of Acoustic Membrane followed by another layer of plasterboard - remembering to ofset each layer to cover the joints of the last. Finally seal ALL gaps with a flexible sealant.




If thats too expensive for you then the next best thing is to just remove the MDF, fill the void with HD insulation, add the resilient bars at 90 degrees, screw on the mdf and seal all the gaps. This will be less effective because you are losing out on mass by ommiting the acoustic membrane, but it will be much cheaper. ;D

[wizer]

Stick egg boxes all over the walls

[andy]

pair of ear defenders and sod the neighbors ;D

[woodyew]

If any neighbors complain about machine noise I just turn up my cd player to very very loud, this drowns out the machine noise - sorted.

[stevep]

If you're lucky you might be able to pick up some cheapish sound insulation panels at a boat jumble (Beaulieu isn't far from you) - they're used for soundproofing engine compartments on boats. It's heavy though - you'll need to take your other half with you to carry it back to the car lorry.
When I built my house I used dense concrete blocks rather than Thermalites because they are better at keeping out the sound of the local (Gatwick) air traffic. But gaps in the construction are bad news - you can spend hundreds on sound proofing, and it's all pointless if the doors and windows don't fit properly.

[sainty]

HC

Might be worth a call to these people www.secondsandco.co.uk/ they supply seconds quality rigid insulation boards which you could put in the voids in your studwork - shoud keep you nice and toasty too! As Stevep said, youy have to make sure that your building is "tight" with as few gaps as possible, I was told to think about noise in the same way as water, if there is a gap, noise will get through it.

rgds

Stu

[Head clansman]

Hi Stu

thanks for the web link handy site that , i'll take some time to go through that one , all i want to acheive is knowing i did all i could to reduce noise to other around me , so if there is any complants there is not a lot the council could actually do . nearest neighbour to my workshop it is about 70 ft ish away , but one two doors away like to open his trap about anything and everything every chance he gets, would be nice to be toasty as well as cool in summer, plus i like to recyle if i can as well . hc

[dunbarhamlin]

Dec 16, 2008 21:26:02 GMT andy said:

pair of ear defenders and sod the neighbors ;D

Be more effective to sod the walls

[engineerone]

might also be worth considering whether there are any methods you can use to quieten the machines themselves too.

for instance covering the dust extraction motor to reduce it noise output. maybe checking whether any machines have thinner metal plate that may vibrate when running, and solidifying this.

of course, you could always only use hand tools ;D

what you are actually looking for is a balance between warmth in the winter and not too much in the summer, plus as much sound deadening as possible.

paul

[Head clansman]

Hi PAUL
what you are actually looking for is a balance between warmth in the winter and not too much in the summer, plus as much sound deadening as possible.

Yep just about right .hc

ps oh and yes i do most by hand anyway but this year is going to a heavy work load at home so hence why i'm also bringing in machines waited a long long time for these. hc