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Post by engineerone on Jan 3, 2009 15:56:13 GMT
so what's the latest thinking on the allowance for full extension slides. does the manufacturer matter, or are do they all need the same?? if your drawer outside is 270 wide, how far apart should the slide supports be. does bottom mounting require more or less space than side mounting? paul
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Post by lynx on Jan 3, 2009 17:30:34 GMT
I allow 13mm to both sides, this is usually the norm
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Post by engineerone on Jan 3, 2009 17:41:43 GMT
thanks mate, allows my calcs to go forward more easily ;D paul
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Post by modernist on Jan 3, 2009 18:37:08 GMT
I've just allowed 12 and it's a bit tight so I'd go with Lynx's 13
Brian
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Post by johnboy on Jan 4, 2009 8:52:36 GMT
The ones I use from ironmongery direct quote 1/2" per side so 12.7mm. 12.5 to 13 should be fine.
John
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Post by promhandicam on Jan 4, 2009 10:05:07 GMT
blum tandem which are concealed need 21mm each side from the i nside of the drawer side. I think the max thickness for the drawer side is 16mm from memory. Have a look at rutlands which have all the diagrams and for small quantities seem to be about the cheapest. for ordinary full extension (side mount) I used Buller good quality and a good price i.e. £6 for a pair of 500mm f.e. slides. these need 1/2" as above. steve
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Jan 4, 2009 10:55:04 GMT
Just a reminder ;D : it's perfectly possible to make drawers and fit them without having to buy ready made runners. Just the old fashioned runner, kicker and side guides work very smoothly and last a lot longer than hardware, and are serviceable when they wear out. Can last 100 years without wear depending on use. Cheap - usually involves using up scrap. Means more woodwork, but not a lot. But we like woodwork don't we?
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Post by engineerone on Jan 4, 2009 12:06:52 GMT
except of course that wooden slides are restrained by the weight that they can hold not sure wooden slip and side pieces will carry 100 kg ;D paul
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Jan 4, 2009 12:24:39 GMT
except of course that wooden slides are restrained by the weight that they can hold not sure wooden slip and side pieces will carry 100 kg ;D paul I meant the trad drawer set up, not the 'wooden runner in a slot in drawer side', which is the worst of all options, in terms of durability. The trad set up will take a lot of weight - until you have a heavily loaded drawer nearly out, when the upwards leverage on the kicker could get problematic. But it's a prob with drawer hardware too, and there are solutions.
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Post by jasonb on Jan 4, 2009 12:48:43 GMT
They also don't fully extend, well not without dropping all the contents on the floor And you can't open/close wooden ones like thisJason
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Jan 4, 2009 13:21:02 GMT
They also don't fully extend, well not without dropping all the contents on the floor And you can't open/close wooden ones like thisJason Coo who'da though it ;D Very 'Mon Oncle' : uk.youtube.com/watch?v=LE9t98Gox60You can make trad wooden drawers fully extensible by making them with longer sides i.e. shorter depth. Sounds a bit silly but a lot of drawers don't need the full depth of the unit they are in. Loads more Tati kitchen linkks [url=http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=mon+oncle+the+kitchen&btnG=Google+Search&meta= ]here[/url] Funny thing is that 'the modern kitchen' is actually a very old idea; germans and others bin at it since 1890s. Also they have been laughed at for a long time too - 50 years in Tati's case ;D he'd have loved those spring loaded drawers!
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