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Post by gazza on Jan 17, 2009 15:23:11 GMT
Bit of a rant ahead  a few pics of the oak doors i made recently, No WIP but here we go, Glue up,   the general style of the door, after hanging,   a little bit of detail, walnut wedges    another yet to be hung, and finished,  another 4 to go, i was very pleased with the way they turned out and the look of them, not so happy with this    Good quality heavy duty, ball bearing hinges fitted into a perfectly fitting hinge rebate The screws are a different matter holes pre drilled 4mm, screws 4.5mm.
The F**KIN things are made of lead !! I screwed them almost home with the drill driver and finished off with a screwdriver, gently tightening them up until i felt a LITTLE resistance. Every one of them i fear would have broke before they were flush with the countersink. Even the pozi head was wanting to ring itself so easily It really pisses me off when you spend the money and buy good quality hinges and the screws they supply for them are absolute S**t Any suggestions on getting the broken screw out without causing too much damage to the frame ? I was thinking, a small holesaw and cut it out then plug with a bit of oak dowell. And no, i wont be super-gluing the head on ;D ;D Cheers, Gazza. |
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Post by jfc on Jan 17, 2009 15:27:55 GMT
First thing i do with any iron mongary is throw away the fixings . They are always crap even with good quality iron mongary .
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Post by paulchapman on Jan 17, 2009 16:26:07 GMT
What a bummer - you must have been fuming, Gazza If you do manage to get them out, I'd be inclined to plug the hole with some dowel, then drill that and glue in a fibre Rawlplug and screw into that. Did you wax the screws before putting them in? Cheers Paul |
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Post by nickw on Jan 17, 2009 16:31:51 GMT
You need to find a split pin that is a bit wider inside then the screw, chuck it in your drill, select reverse and apply it to the remains of the screw. There will be lots of burning, but eventually either the screw will back out, or you will have dug deep enough so that it just pulls out inside the pin. You can then drill out the burnt hole and glue in a plug. It is best to use a cross grain plug if you can. Once the glue has set you can insert a new screw using best practices.
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Post by mrgrimsdale on Jan 17, 2009 16:35:39 GMT
To get them out I'd use a 1/4" mortice chisel to make a slot along the grain from the screw stub, until it's deep enough to knock the screw sideways into it, with a nail punch. Then grab it with some long nosed pliers. It makes a smaller hole easier to fill than working all round it.
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Post by jasonb on Jan 17, 2009 17:03:05 GMT
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Post by nickw on Jan 17, 2009 17:13:43 GMT
Yeah, sorry, I did mean a roll pin. Split pins wouldn't do the job at all.
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Post by Dan Tovey on Jan 17, 2009 17:45:29 GMT
I agree with Jason.
I always bin the screws supplied with any ironmongery and use my own; either Reisser, Spax, or Wurth.
I've had to piss about too many times extracting crap screws.
Dan
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Post by engineerone on Jan 17, 2009 17:48:21 GMT
go to your local wilkinson's (blimey nearly wrote woolies :  and get the jml screw extractor kit, for about a tenner ;D this is what they should be worth getting for. like all screw extractors, they work sometimes and not others. other thing to try because of the nature of the fixings, is drive in a spax type screw, and then unscrew it. may take a couple of times, but that works sometimes too. other wise you may well have to oversize drill and then plug the holes before a re install. nice doors by the way  paul |
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cove
New Member
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Post by cove on Jan 17, 2009 19:49:04 GMT
I fixed a big oak disc on the lathe faceplate using 60 mm screws from Screwfix. They went in fine. Then I had to take them out and the head of every one (about 15 of them) sheared off! Spaxes go in and out with no problems. Every mistake we make is a lesson to learn.
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johnc
New Member
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Post by johnc on Jan 17, 2009 19:57:39 GMT
Unfortunately paying more no longer guarantee's quality it all comes from china.Recently had this problem with 34 large doors on a hotel refit in Chester,some were 4 metre high to hide the room dividers away when not in use. The screws supplied were a soft stainless totally useless we pre drilled then countersink frame hang using steel screws,check carpet clearance then swap out for the stainless using wax on screw and driver on low torque setting.To avoid cam out. check out a shipwright in training eweandme.com/boatblog/index.php/2007/11/06/uncrew-ums-backing-out-planks/#more-234 nice doors cheers john c |
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Post by colincott on Jan 18, 2009 15:36:04 GMT
I have had a set of these but made them myself and would to all get some as they have saved me lots of time from broken screw ( being in antiques, have to deal with a lot of them ). They are easy to use and you know when you have got to the bottom of the screw as the is no resistance and can be used on table tops safely too. I have one that is 6mm/ 1/4 outside and one that is 9mm/ 3/8 outside and with long plugs you can fill them very quickly and put screws back right away. Plus you can use a long plug cutter and use the wooden plug in the hole. |
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Post by gazza on Jan 18, 2009 19:15:04 GMT
What a bummer - you must have been fuming, Gazza Yes Paul to say the least I did wax the screws, but i didnt put another in first, like a spax, to cut the thread. I pre drilled at 4mm which i though was plenty, thinking that it was maybe even too big. Thanks for the link JasonB thats exactly the "holesaw" i had in mind, but i couldnt remember where i saw them. The roll pins sound like an option as well, i shall see what i can pick up tomorrow. I would be interested to know what you made yours out of Colin The problem im facing now is taking the rest of them out to "fix" the broken ones and also replace them all with better quality screws. I know all to well that they can break just as easily on the way out as on the way in, so fingers crossed ;D ;D Thanks for the comments on the doors themselves. Cheers, Gazza. |
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Post by promhandicam on Jan 18, 2009 22:04:28 GMT
Sorry about the problems with the screws. Are you using a regular cordless drill or an impact driver to put the screws in or take them out for that matter? I've found that the impact driver is better in this respect although I've still had one or two heads shear off putting them in. If you haven't got an impact driver and aren't too far from me (near guildford in surrey) I'd be happy to lend you mine to try it out. Steve
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Post by jonnyd on Jan 18, 2009 22:34:21 GMT
Hope you manage to get it sorted without it costing you too much money. Nice looking doors as well i like the wedge detail. Has someone splashed white paint over the oak door casing?
jon
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Post by colincott on Jan 18, 2009 23:05:16 GMT
I have made some out of mild steel but the ones I have now, which I have had for years are made out of silver steel ( from Tilgear ).
I did have them drilled by a friend of a friend and cut the teeth myself and you just refile them if you hit a nail.
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Post by gazza on Jan 19, 2009 19:31:19 GMT
Has someone splashed white paint over the oak door casing? Yea mate, the painter is a nightmare, more paint on the floor than on the walls  luckily its only emulsion, so easily sanded off. Nice avatar, Heeerrrrreeeesss Jonny classic. ;D ;D I have a couple of dewalt 18v impacts, but decided to use the combi drill as it was' to hand' thanks for the kind offer Steve, but surrey is just a wee bit far for me being in N Ireland ;D ;D didnt get a chance to get near them today as i was replacing 10 inch oak door linings with mdf would you believe, as the customer wanted a " nice white painted finish ". Crazy or what, theres nothin as queer as folk, Eh Cheers, Gazza. |
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simuk
Full Member
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Post by simuk on Jan 19, 2009 20:49:44 GMT
Nice doors gazza, i like the walnut wedges touch, very nice
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Post by dom on Jan 20, 2009 23:05:35 GMT
Always buy Spax stainless steel screws
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