Doorways and wooden floors

[mikeb]

After some remodelling, we are about to lay some wooden floors between two living rooms, which now have a new double doorway between them.

As far as I am aware, door frames typically comprise of a header and two side jambs, with any unevenness in the floors and any draft proofing being performed by the pile in the carpets.

Question is, what do you do when there are no carpets??

I like the idea of just having the flooring continuous between the rooms but I am not too sure that the floors will be level enough (it is an old house) to allow the doors to open without leaving a decent gap under the doors, which then raises the issue of how to limit drafts between the rooms - some kind of draft excluder on the lower edge of the doors??

Alternatively, I have seen some old apartments where they have fitted "footers" - basically another header plate but upside down on the floor (sorry - I don't know the technical name for this!) but this seems a little strange to me or maybe its just the years of carpets clouding my thinking.

And finally, what do you do where the wooden floor meets any existing flooring and the heights don't quite match e.g. old parquet on top of floorboards one side, straight pine floorbaords the other??

Obviously, we are trying to get the new floor to be roughly the same as the existing flooring but like I said it is an old place and has been chopped and changed a bit over the years...

So what do the experts suggest?? And no, carpet is NOT an option...

edit:
This particular project aside, I guess what I'm asking is "what is the standard practise when installing doorways in rooms that have wooden floors?"

1) use some sort of footer

2) just leave the smallest gap possible and ignore daft proofing etc

3) something else


Cheers
Mike

[engineerone]

you can get threshold strips to stick under the doors, this allows some room for expansion as well as transition.

if going between rooms, then try and make them the same height, by putting a sub floor down.

as for the door gap, there used to be sliding brushes, which fit on one side of the door or the other. have not seen one which is recessed one into the door.

paul

[mrgrimsdale]

Just leave the smallest gap possible and ignore draught proofing. Unless draughts are a particular problem with this door - in which case there are many other options such as brushes, built-up threshold 'footers' etc.
A small level of draught is necessary for healthy air exchange.
If there's a change of level just tidy it up as appropriate. e.g. you could insert a narrow edging piece to make a mini step, or a wider piece with a slope. etc

cheers
Jacob

[dom]

You can purchase brushes which go into a rebate under the door.

Here

In the search box enter the code 981.03.067 for the brush type or 950.07.542 for a retractable type. Alternatively enter "draught excluder" which will bring up several different types.
If you don't have an account with them, then Isaac Lord will get them for you.

[dalo218]

Hang the doors with a 2.5 mm gap at bottom on rising butts which should clear any inaccuracies in floor levels. then ask yourself why you have a gale of wind blowing through your re-modeled home anyway.